ABS Traction Control Stability Control Fix
09-01-2012, 06:23 PM
#1
ABS Traction Control Stability Control Fix I've been hunting down a ABS/Traction Control/Stability Control issue on my 2006 GXP. I found the following on another site and it helped me to get to the bottom of my issues and all is good now. My issue was the hub was bad # 1 and also the wiring for the sensor had gone bad along the frame area. Not a grounding/bare wire issue, but I found by hooking up a voltmeter to the wire with ignition on that the voltage jumped around when the wire was bent/shaken slightly for the right front sensor. Clipped the bad area of the wiring harness replaced with new wiring, and all is good.
Anyways - here's the procedure I found on another site and thought it will help others, copied and pasted a few together:
"Each wheel has a AC gernerator that is used to tell the ABS brake module what that wheel is doing. These sensors are nothing more than just a coil of wires with an input & out put lead. Either they work properly, are open( broken wire) or are shorted to ground. Unplug each one & check the tresistance in them. If you have one that is different than the others----- youve found a problem Resistances values need to be 800-1600 ohms.
Once you've confirmed the sensors are all good & the lights are still on, there are other issues. You need to check the wiring from each wheel sensor to the ABS module. Again very easy. Plug all the wheel sensors back in, & then unplug the main plug at the ABS module. Remeber each wheel has it's own set of 2 wires that tell the module what's going on.
With the pin end of the plug facing you you want to check the wiring to each wheel. There are VERY small numbers moulded into the corners of the plug. Looking at the pin end of the plug the numbers start at 1 in the upper right side ending in 11 upper left side. The last row starts with 20 in the lower right & ends at 30 in the lower left.
#2 & #3 pins Right rear wheel
#4 & #5 Right front wheel
#20 & #21 Left Front wheel
#22 & #23 Left rear wheel.
Again check the resistance for each wheel at these pins. They should all be very close to the values you got at the wheel sensors alone. If there is a reading that is out of place, then the problem is in the harness, now you have to find it, but at least you know which area to be looking for."
"I checked the voltage at the end of each harness connector to the wheel speed sensors with the ignition turned on. Three of them were at 4.8 volts, and the RF was varied between 2.1 and 3.6 volts. As I shook the harness next to the RF brake, that voltage at the connector would jump up and down. With the connector still disconnected from the wheel sensor, I probed the length harness with pins and a voltmeter. At the ABS ECM, the RF circuit was 4.8 volts like the other three wheel circuits. As I moved along the harness, it stayed at 4.8 volts until I got to within about a foot of the wheel sensor. Then it dropped off to the lower level I measured at the wheel connector.
I eventually pulled the wires out of the harness guard, and cut open some of the shrink wrap around the wires. Even though the car had not been driven for 5 days, the wires were wet, and the inside of the shrink wrap was full of sand and salt. I think what had happened was that the dirt there eventually degraded the insulation on the wires and was allowing some current leakage that resulted in the voltage drop.
I intended to rewire this part of the harness and replace the end connector. I couldn’t get a new connector at the auto parts stores, but three different stores and a Chevy dealer sold a relatively short section of the harness with a new connector. My conclusion is that this mode of failure must be common, or all of the auto parts stores and GM dealers would not be selling a replacement harness section.
After wiring in the new section on the end of the RF wheel harness, the ABS warning light is no longer coming on."
If all your wheel sensors are good, & all your harnesses are good then you need to be looking at the ABS module itself.
Anyways - here's the procedure I found on another site and thought it will help others, copied and pasted a few together:
"Each wheel has a AC gernerator that is used to tell the ABS brake module what that wheel is doing. These sensors are nothing more than just a coil of wires with an input & out put lead. Either they work properly, are open( broken wire) or are shorted to ground. Unplug each one & check the tresistance in them. If you have one that is different than the others----- youve found a problem Resistances values need to be 800-1600 ohms.
Once you've confirmed the sensors are all good & the lights are still on, there are other issues. You need to check the wiring from each wheel sensor to the ABS module. Again very easy. Plug all the wheel sensors back in, & then unplug the main plug at the ABS module. Remeber each wheel has it's own set of 2 wires that tell the module what's going on.
With the pin end of the plug facing you you want to check the wiring to each wheel. There are VERY small numbers moulded into the corners of the plug. Looking at the pin end of the plug the numbers start at 1 in the upper right side ending in 11 upper left side. The last row starts with 20 in the lower right & ends at 30 in the lower left.
#2 & #3 pins Right rear wheel
#4 & #5 Right front wheel
#20 & #21 Left Front wheel
#22 & #23 Left rear wheel.
Again check the resistance for each wheel at these pins. They should all be very close to the values you got at the wheel sensors alone. If there is a reading that is out of place, then the problem is in the harness, now you have to find it, but at least you know which area to be looking for."
"I checked the voltage at the end of each harness connector to the wheel speed sensors with the ignition turned on. Three of them were at 4.8 volts, and the RF was varied between 2.1 and 3.6 volts. As I shook the harness next to the RF brake, that voltage at the connector would jump up and down. With the connector still disconnected from the wheel sensor, I probed the length harness with pins and a voltmeter. At the ABS ECM, the RF circuit was 4.8 volts like the other three wheel circuits. As I moved along the harness, it stayed at 4.8 volts until I got to within about a foot of the wheel sensor. Then it dropped off to the lower level I measured at the wheel connector.
I eventually pulled the wires out of the harness guard, and cut open some of the shrink wrap around the wires. Even though the car had not been driven for 5 days, the wires were wet, and the inside of the shrink wrap was full of sand and salt. I think what had happened was that the dirt there eventually degraded the insulation on the wires and was allowing some current leakage that resulted in the voltage drop.
I intended to rewire this part of the harness and replace the end connector. I couldn’t get a new connector at the auto parts stores, but three different stores and a Chevy dealer sold a relatively short section of the harness with a new connector. My conclusion is that this mode of failure must be common, or all of the auto parts stores and GM dealers would not be selling a replacement harness section.
After wiring in the new section on the end of the RF wheel harness, the ABS warning light is no longer coming on."
If all your wheel sensors are good, & all your harnesses are good then you need to be looking at the ABS module itself.
09-01-2012, 11:19 PM
#3
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I had to replace my lug nuts and lug bolts and ever since then my low tire pressure light comes on all the damn time is this that same sensor I disturbed when pulling all that off
09-03-2012, 10:27 AM
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I'm going thru the same mess. Espescially when I cut the wheel to the left and turn or break left damn thing dings: "service break assist" "service traction control" and the "ABS" will flash......I got a possible noob question: So the wheel sensor harness/wire needs to still be connected towards the top, while you check the ABS connector's end at the bottom??? or do you check the connector towards the top while leaving the ABS's end connected??
09-07-2012, 04:28 PM
#7
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Thanks for the write up. When my car was under warranty they replaced a tps and the problem went away for a few months. I took it back and they did the same. It would flash on periodically but now it's on all the time. When the weather is a little cooler I'll start probing into it.
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09-07-2012, 07:29 PM
#8
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all your lights went out after they replaced a tps. ive had one that kept saying low tire forever now i have all kinds of lights on. anyone else have there service variable effort steering pop up on dic
09-07-2012, 08:09 PM
#9
I'm going thru the same mess. Espescially when I cut the wheel to the left and turn or break left damn thing dings: "service break assist" "service traction control" and the "ABS" will flash......I got a possible noob question: So the wheel sensor harness/wire needs to still be connected towards the top, while you check the ABS connector's end at the bottom??? or do you check the connector towards the top while leaving the ABS's end connected??
09-08-2012, 05:26 PM
#10
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The funny thing is that it shows right rear tire low. I rotated the tires and had it relearn and it still shows right rear tire. I checked it with a gauge and it's at 33 psi. Sometimes it will show pressure is in excess of 100 psi on the DIC for right rear. I wonder if the sensors can be disabled.
09-13-2012, 01:35 AM
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symptons still remain!!! I just blindly replaced both front harness wires(Right & Left)! still didn't work, cleaned MAF & throttle body, added break fluid, power steering and Problem still exist!!!
(all that was done prior to using the multimeter on this damn car! Check batt and Alt and they are fine,..I picked up an OBD II &ABS scanner tool & gave these codes:
U0100 lost com with ECM/powertrain control module A
U0140 lost com with BCM module
U0101 lost com with TCM module
C0561 system disabled info stored infalid serial data recieved
C0242 PCM indicated traction control system malfunction
U0073 Control module communication Bus off (intermittent)
U0121 Lost com with Antilock System control module
P0575 cruise control input circuit
Brake switch B input Circuit
P2544 Torque Management Request signal "A"
doors click like unlocking and locking, needles drop while the: "Service Break Assist, service traction control, ABS flashes & its shifting like ****!
so its pretty safe to say this car has an electrical issue?,........what could it be ECM, BCM?? guys please help me out on this....
09-22-2013, 01:00 PM
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I've been hunting down a ABS/Traction Control/Stability Control issue on my 2006 GXP. I found the following on another site and it helped me to get to the bottom of my issues and all is good now. My issue was the hub was bad # 1 and also the wiring for the sensor had gone bad along the frame area. Not a grounding/bare wire issue, but I found by hooking up a voltmeter to the wire with ignition on that the voltage jumped around when the wire was bent/shaken slightly for the right front sensor. Clipped the bad area of the wiring harness replaced with new wiring, and all is good.
Anyways - here's the procedure I found on another site and thought it will help others, copied and pasted a few together:
"Each wheel has a AC gernerator that is used to tell the ABS brake module what that wheel is doing. These sensors are nothing more than just a coil of wires with an input & out put lead. Either they work properly, are open( broken wire) or are shorted to ground. Unplug each one & check the tresistance in them. If you have one that is different than the others----- youve found a problem Resistances values need to be 800-1600 ohms.
Once you've confirmed the sensors are all good & the lights are still on, there are other issues. You need to check the wiring from each wheel sensor to the ABS module. Again very easy. Plug all the wheel sensors back in, & then unplug the main plug at the ABS module. Remeber each wheel has it's own set of 2 wires that tell the module what's going on.
With the pin end of the plug facing you you want to check the wiring to each wheel. There are VERY small numbers moulded into the corners of the plug. Looking at the pin end of the plug the numbers start at 1 in the upper right side ending in 11 upper left side. The last row starts with 20 in the lower right & ends at 30 in the lower left.
#2 & #3 pins Right rear wheel
#4 & #5 Right front wheel
#20 & #21 Left Front wheel
#22 & #23 Left rear wheel.
Again check the resistance for each wheel at these pins. They should all be very close to the values you got at the wheel sensors alone. If there is a reading that is out of place, then the problem is in the harness, now you have to find it, but at least you know which area to be looking for."
"I checked the voltage at the end of each harness connector to the wheel speed sensors with the ignition turned on. Three of them were at 4.8 volts, and the RF was varied between 2.1 and 3.6 volts. As I shook the harness next to the RF brake, that voltage at the connector would jump up and down. With the connector still disconnected from the wheel sensor, I probed the length harness with pins and a voltmeter. At the ABS ECM, the RF circuit was 4.8 volts like the other three wheel circuits. As I moved along the harness, it stayed at 4.8 volts until I got to within about a foot of the wheel sensor. Then it dropped off to the lower level I measured at the wheel connector.
I eventually pulled the wires out of the harness guard, and cut open some of the shrink wrap around the wires. Even though the car had not been driven for 5 days, the wires were wet, and the inside of the shrink wrap was full of sand and salt. I think what had happened was that the dirt there eventually degraded the insulation on the wires and was allowing some current leakage that resulted in the voltage drop.
I intended to rewire this part of the harness and replace the end connector. I couldn’t get a new connector at the auto parts stores, but three different stores and a Chevy dealer sold a relatively short section of the harness with a new connector. My conclusion is that this mode of failure must be common, or all of the auto parts stores and GM dealers would not be selling a replacement harness section.
After wiring in the new section on the end of the RF wheel harness, the ABS warning light is no longer coming on."
If all your wheel sensors are good, & all your harnesses are good then you need to be looking at the ABS module itself.
Anyways - here's the procedure I found on another site and thought it will help others, copied and pasted a few together:
"Each wheel has a AC gernerator that is used to tell the ABS brake module what that wheel is doing. These sensors are nothing more than just a coil of wires with an input & out put lead. Either they work properly, are open( broken wire) or are shorted to ground. Unplug each one & check the tresistance in them. If you have one that is different than the others----- youve found a problem Resistances values need to be 800-1600 ohms.
Once you've confirmed the sensors are all good & the lights are still on, there are other issues. You need to check the wiring from each wheel sensor to the ABS module. Again very easy. Plug all the wheel sensors back in, & then unplug the main plug at the ABS module. Remeber each wheel has it's own set of 2 wires that tell the module what's going on.
With the pin end of the plug facing you you want to check the wiring to each wheel. There are VERY small numbers moulded into the corners of the plug. Looking at the pin end of the plug the numbers start at 1 in the upper right side ending in 11 upper left side. The last row starts with 20 in the lower right & ends at 30 in the lower left.
#2 & #3 pins Right rear wheel
#4 & #5 Right front wheel
#20 & #21 Left Front wheel
#22 & #23 Left rear wheel.
Again check the resistance for each wheel at these pins. They should all be very close to the values you got at the wheel sensors alone. If there is a reading that is out of place, then the problem is in the harness, now you have to find it, but at least you know which area to be looking for."
"I checked the voltage at the end of each harness connector to the wheel speed sensors with the ignition turned on. Three of them were at 4.8 volts, and the RF was varied between 2.1 and 3.6 volts. As I shook the harness next to the RF brake, that voltage at the connector would jump up and down. With the connector still disconnected from the wheel sensor, I probed the length harness with pins and a voltmeter. At the ABS ECM, the RF circuit was 4.8 volts like the other three wheel circuits. As I moved along the harness, it stayed at 4.8 volts until I got to within about a foot of the wheel sensor. Then it dropped off to the lower level I measured at the wheel connector.
I eventually pulled the wires out of the harness guard, and cut open some of the shrink wrap around the wires. Even though the car had not been driven for 5 days, the wires were wet, and the inside of the shrink wrap was full of sand and salt. I think what had happened was that the dirt there eventually degraded the insulation on the wires and was allowing some current leakage that resulted in the voltage drop.
I intended to rewire this part of the harness and replace the end connector. I couldn’t get a new connector at the auto parts stores, but three different stores and a Chevy dealer sold a relatively short section of the harness with a new connector. My conclusion is that this mode of failure must be common, or all of the auto parts stores and GM dealers would not be selling a replacement harness section.
After wiring in the new section on the end of the RF wheel harness, the ABS warning light is no longer coming on."
If all your wheel sensors are good, & all your harnesses are good then you need to be looking at the ABS module itself.
Credit for this can be found here: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/dir...32c/162#MSG162
Here are some pictures that I took of the new harness (deep black) and the old harness (faded gray) and where I decided to cut it. I then spliced (solder and heatshrink) the new harness.
I replaced my harness with an ACDelco and not the [cheaper] Dorman.
The driver side part number is 10340317 and the passenger side part number is 10340315.
11-08-2021, 02:50 PM
#18
TECH Fanatic
On a related note, I made this page a few months ago (https://sites.google.com/view/grand-...grand-prix-gxp) because I struggled to find information about what tools were needed to replace the front hubs on a GP GXP, so I dug through the service manual and old posts and decided to create a guide. This is specific to replacing the front hubs (and thus replacing the sensor that's attached to each of the hubs). I believe I included the service manual info about testing the wiring in the PDF on the page though, but I don't remember the details because I fortunately didn't have to do that. My wiring was all fine, my hubs were just worn out from potholes, speed bumps, etc.
If you own a Blue Driver, you can scan your car and find out which hub/sensor is the problem. It's how I knew which hub was my problem. However, you are generally supposed to replace hubs on both sides of the vehicle when one is bad, so... that's exactly what I did.
If you own a Blue Driver, you can scan your car and find out which hub/sensor is the problem. It's how I knew which hub was my problem. However, you are generally supposed to replace hubs on both sides of the vehicle when one is bad, so... that's exactly what I did.
11-13-2023, 04:00 PM
#19
I've been hunting down a ABS/Traction Control/Stability Control issue on my 2006 GXP. I found the following on another site and it helped me to get to the bottom of my issues and all is good now. My issue was the hub was bad # 1 and also the wiring for the sensor had gone bad along the frame area. Not a grounding/bare wire issue, but I found by hooking up a voltmeter to the wire with ignition on that the voltage jumped around when the wire was bent/shaken slightly for the right front sensor. Clipped the bad area of the wiring harness replaced with new wiring, and all is good.
Anyways - here's the procedure I found on another site and thought it will help others, copied and pasted a few together:
"Each wheel has a AC gernerator that is used to tell the ABS brake module what that wheel is doing. These sensors are nothing more than just a coil of wires with an input & out put lead. Either they work properly, are open( broken wire) or are shorted to ground. Unplug each one & check the tresistance in them. If you have one that is different than the others----- youve found a problem Resistances values need to be 800-1600 ohms.
Once you've confirmed the sensors are all good & the lights are still on, there are other issues. You need to check the wiring from each wheel sensor to the ABS module. Again very easy. Plug all the wheel sensors back in, & then unplug the main plug at the ABS module. Remeber each wheel has it's own set of 2 wires that tell the module what's going on.
With the pin end of the plug facing you you want to check the wiring to each wheel. There are VERY small numbers moulded into the corners of the plug. Looking at the pin end of the plug the numbers start at 1 in the upper right side ending in 11 upper left side. The last row starts with 20 in the lower right & ends at 30 in the lower left.
#2 & #3 pins Right rear wheel
#4 & #5 Right front wheel
#20 & #21 Left Front wheel
#22 & #23 Left rear wheel.
Again check the resistance for each wheel at these pins.
Anyways - here's the procedure I found on another site and thought it will help others, copied and pasted a few together:
"Each wheel has a AC gernerator that is used to tell the ABS brake module what that wheel is doing. These sensors are nothing more than just a coil of wires with an input & out put lead. Either they work properly, are open( broken wire) or are shorted to ground. Unplug each one & check the tresistance in them. If you have one that is different than the others----- youve found a problem Resistances values need to be 800-1600 ohms.
Once you've confirmed the sensors are all good & the lights are still on, there are other issues. You need to check the wiring from each wheel sensor to the ABS module. Again very easy. Plug all the wheel sensors back in, & then unplug the main plug at the ABS module. Remeber each wheel has it's own set of 2 wires that tell the module what's going on.
With the pin end of the plug facing you you want to check the wiring to each wheel. There are VERY small numbers moulded into the corners of the plug. Looking at the pin end of the plug the numbers start at 1 in the upper right side ending in 11 upper left side. The last row starts with 20 in the lower right & ends at 30 in the lower left.
#2 & #3 pins Right rear wheel
#4 & #5 Right front wheel
#20 & #21 Left Front wheel
#22 & #23 Left rear wheel.
Again check the resistance for each wheel at these pins.
