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teardown has begun!

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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 06:05 PM
  #21  
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pictures of the AC lines for ya Sint3k



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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 06:23 PM
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Keep those pics coming. Seems like you made quick work of this so far.
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rottonj
Keep those pics coming. Seems like you made quick work of this so far.
Over 10 years of mechanical experience between me and my buddy and my neighbor who has been learning the trade for a couple years now, yep pretty much no challenge we can't tackle at this point. lol This would move along alot quicker if i could just get my cobalt in the hands of the right buyer. If you know anyone in the jersey area looking...

http://southjersey.craigslist.org/cto/4988552100.html
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 08:56 PM
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Having help is great, I've been working on cars for over 30 years but most of my gear head buddies have long since moved away. I have 3 daughters , not going to get much help there lol. Mine is a DD and I have to carefully consider every job as if its down I have to drive the wife's minivan and that's not my favorite. I would like to go right thru mine once its done with its DD service, couple more years I'm hoping for. I just want reliability and some more power, nothing real crazy(intake,cam,headers and exhaust). I would like to set it up for the Silver State runs, that could be fun.
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by spawne32
Oh its a mess, did another two hours worth of work tonight, found out why the previous owner said it was overheating.

Does that radiator have a petcock? Can you take a picture if it does? Thanks
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by rottonj
Does that radiator have a petcock? Can you take a picture if it does? Thanks
Yeh ill snap a picture tonight for ya, its on the passenger side, virtually inaccessible. lol
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 01:49 AM
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Might as well replace the heater core too while you're at it.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 91parkave
Might as well replace the heater core too while you're at it.
That depends on whether or not that requires removal of the dash. lol
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 07:17 PM
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Nah just some cozy time underneath it. the interior comes out extremely easy and quick to get the access you need.but hey I'd rather have a new heater core in now with all the work you doing to the car. Sometimes flushes don't get everything out.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 91parkave
Nah just some cozy time underneath it. the interior comes out extremely easy and quick to get the access you need.but hey I'd rather have a new heater core in now with all the work you doing to the car. Sometimes flushes don't get everything out.
yeh im gonna back flush it this weekend and see what it looks like, the coolant was clear and it has consistent coolant flushes at the proper intervals so im not too concerned about clogs. The last head gasket job I did the guy drove his camera to the point where the engine started melting sensors, it had chunks of **** coming out of the radiator and the heater core was clogged solid, but you can tell when you have problems like that. lol Still got a couple weeks left before its all back together, and still having problems getting anyone to come up with the cash to buy my other car, which is holding up getting the transmission done. That's where the bulk of the money is being invested in this build so that I can avoid any future problems down the road.
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 03:27 PM
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Not sure if anything here will be helpful but got an email from RockAuto with the wholesale closeout parts list for a 2008 Grand Prix, some parts may be the same for your 2007. Worth a look to save some cash.

http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclef...l=en&html=true
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by rottonj
Not sure if anything here will be helpful but got an email from RockAuto with the wholesale closeout parts list for a 2008 Grand Prix, some parts may be the same for your 2007. Worth a look to save some cash.

http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclef...l=en&html=true
Good price on some things, shame alot of the brake parts are for the base models. Gonna pick up those trico wiper blades though.
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 05:56 PM
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2 days with simple green, power washer, and kearny rust cutter, finally got this thing to an acceptable clean level. cylinder walls looks excellent, pistons were black as hell but after soaking in kearny most of the crud came off without issue. Also confirmed this is a single bolt cam. Pulled all of the push rods, lifters and trays, all looked excellent, debating on whether or not i should throw them up for sale. Gonna order the parts for the 3 bolt conversion.








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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 09:43 PM
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welp, dont know how to feel about this...




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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 11:18 PM
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So much easier pulling the pan out of the car lol. sucks about the metal though, I wouldn't second guess it, pull her all the way apart, one of those rod bearings is probably about to eat the dust
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 11:28 PM
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dam i was hoping u pull pan and be clean there but framents tell story,now u get to bulletproof everything man u work fast won't take u long lol
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 11:30 PM
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91 u get my mess about mount from zzp?
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 91parkave
So much easier pulling the pan out of the car lol. sucks about the metal though, I wouldn't second guess it, pull her all the way apart, one of those rod bearings is probably about to eat the dust
No one here is entirely convinced its bearings at all. The stuff in the oil pan appears to be casting flash in the bottom of the pan, im gonna scrub it tomorrow and see what is going on there, apart from that, only two pieces of non magnetic metal in the pickup. Oil pump was literally spotless, looked as though it was brand new, so not even a hint of metal circulating through the oil system from a bearing. Couldn't identify any problems with the DoD lifters and their infamous needle bearings, going to examine the rockers in more detail tomorrow as well. Any sort of metal in the sump leads to some level of paranoia i will admit, but this isn't my first rodeo, and not the first time i've seen this kind of contamination in a oil pump pickup before.

Will see how it goes tomorrow, going to pull the timing assembly and the camshaft out, see how it looks the rest of the way, inspect the cam bearings.
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Old Apr 27, 2015 | 12:07 AM
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happy to hear non magnetic so u are on track with alum casting get some cleaner in there and see what flushes out,i use kerosene on my bike motor when i flush it but they prob got something new by now but good luck and keep going with the pics and your speed is amazing
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Old Apr 27, 2015 | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by superglide9375
happy to hear non magnetic so u are on track with alum casting get some cleaner in there and see what flushes out,i use kerosene on my bike motor when i flush it but they prob got something new by now but good luck and keep going with the pics and your speed is amazing
I have a parts washer next door in my neighbors garage, gonna dunk it in there and clean it out. Non magnetic metal is usually a bad sign though, as bearings are aluminum, but given how many parts on this engine are aluminum, its hard to say exactly where its from. I have see instances of contamination from the factory where the oil pump pickup had stuff in it in an otherwise flawless engine. So its possible that maybe it was debris from assembly, maybe a dry first start, or just contamination from shoddy mechanical work, who knows at this point. The oil pump being spotless means that nothing ever made its way through the oiling system, which leads me to believe it never came from the crank at all, as it would have had to have flowed through those passages at some point. I will however cut the oil filter open and see how it looks, if it looks like stripper glitter in there, ill have to order up a set of bearings and pray the crank is good. I am a pic ***** though so you'll get to see it as it unfolds. lol
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