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Old May 16, 2015 | 07:16 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by rottonj
Dammit! I was hoping you were going to make it look easy like you did with the rest of your car . I will be going the same route when that time comes. I think I found a local establishment who could do it. Not sure how they will feel about me dropping all the parts off lol.
Just make sure its a shop you trust, otherwise you might wind up like the previous owner of this car, paying for a trans rebuild only for them to loosen some bolts and then give him the car back with nothing fixed. I know the guys over at precision know quality, as they are all drag racers at our local strip, and ive seen the work they do first hand, so im confident this thing is going to come out bulletproof.
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Old May 17, 2015 | 12:01 PM
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Does the Stage 1 kit from TEP essentially overhaul the entire transaxle? Or is it a fix for a certain set of issues?

Also, how much did the kit cost shipped to you? I ask because I was under the impression that TEP's prices are for the fix and not just the parts, minus shipping of course.
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Old May 17, 2015 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by GXP25
Does the Stage 1 kit from TEP essentially overhaul the entire transaxle? Or is it a fix for a certain set of issues?

Also, how much did the kit cost shipped to you? I ask because I was under the impression that TEP's prices are for the fix and not just the parts, minus shipping of course.
Just under 1100 bucks for the 3.29 gears, 7/8" chain set, and the stage 1 master rebuild kit. It's a full rebuild kit (which includes all gaskets, seals) the stage 1 upgraded frictions, and steels (includes the oversized plates), the transgo shift kit, sonnax line pressure booster kit, and the upgraded TCC apply valves from sonnax, i know that it did come with a valve body spacer plate predrilled already, although im not entirely sure what exactly that affects, I believe that also has to do with shift quality as well.

The only other higher one they sell is the stage 2 kit which includes an entire replacement valve body done by TEP, and it has the oversized billet piston for the 3rd clutch. It's like $250 dollars more in price.
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Old May 17, 2015 | 03:32 PM
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Staying with the stock input shaft?
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Old May 17, 2015 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 91parkave
Staying with the stock input shaft?
had a brand new one cryo treated, 300M shaft would be cutting into a huge chunk of the budget and since im not planning on exceeding 350whp any time soon, I doubt ill have any need for anything more. Had the shaft treated at cryoplus inc. http://www.cryoplus.com/ I was told theres a good 30-50% increase in tensile strength of the part after the treating, and when I ran it by the trans shop he said it works but 9 times out of 10 if they are going to fail, they wind up sheering the splines off instead of breaking at the actual shaft after the treatment. Way I figure it, if GM feels additional hardening to other hard parts inside these trannies is enough to beef up their strength, cryo should be plenty for my goals.
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Old May 18, 2015 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by spawne32
Just under 1100 bucks for the 3.29 gears, 7/8" chain set, and the stage 1 master rebuild kit. It's a full rebuild kit (which includes all gaskets, seals) the stage 1 upgraded frictions, and steels (includes the oversized plates), the transgo shift kit, sonnax line pressure booster kit, and the upgraded TCC apply valves from sonnax, i know that it did come with a valve body spacer plate predrilled already, although im not entirely sure what exactly that affects, I believe that also has to do with shift quality as well.

The only other higher one they sell is the stage 2 kit which includes an entire replacement valve body done by TEP, and it has the oversized billet piston for the 3rd clutch. It's like $250 dollars more in price.
So that's just all of the parts required? Naturally you already have the transaxle.

So what parts would be needed to rebuild the stock transaxle to handle stock power without grenading?
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Old May 18, 2015 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by GXP25
So that's just all of the parts required? Naturally you already have the transaxle.

So what parts would be needed to rebuild the stock transaxle to handle stock power without grenading?
Honestly, dave doesnt recommend anything less then what I bought for a stock trans, which is the "stage 1" rebuild on his site. Minus the shaft, and chain upgrade. There are inherent design flaws with the trans that just have to be addressed once you rebuild it, this includes the TCC apply valves, line pressure valves, AFL valve kit, etc. You can use just a regular master rebuild kit which includes, frictions, steels and gaskets/seals, but you at the minimum need those few pieces for the valve body, and you would have to test all your solenoids. Watch this video, it explains alot.

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Old May 28, 2015 | 03:16 PM
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did some compounding today, hood vs fender, unfortunately lots of pitting and cracking in the hood :/

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Old May 28, 2015 | 06:57 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by spawne32
did some compounding today, hood vs fender, unfortunately lots of pitting and cracking in the hood :/

lol , i looked it wrong when i first read this post, the hood looks good. Finish the rest!

What products do you use ?

Im a fan of the wolfgang swirl remover
and the Lake Country pads.

and Jet Seal for the sealant.
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Old May 28, 2015 | 08:10 PM
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megs 105/205 compound and polish, lake country CSS pads and megs gold class wax, dont bother with sealants on paint this crappy. Got alot of spots on the front end where the clear is split, cracked and chipped. Hoping the sides and back portion of the car are a little bit better off. Couldn't really get into it today, was too hot out and the sun was beating on the car, pad actually started smoking after the first pass, and i kept wetting the hood to keep it cool. Clay bar picked up a decent amount as well. Just lots of neglect here.
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Old May 28, 2015 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by spawne32
megs 105/205 compound and polish, lake country CSS pads and megs gold class wax, dont bother with sealants on paint this crappy. Got alot of spots on the front end where the clear is split, cracked and chipped. Hoping the sides and back portion of the car are a little bit better off. Couldn't really get into it today, was too hot out and the sun was beating on the car, pad actually started smoking after the first pass, and i kept wetting the hood to keep it cool. Clay bar picked up a decent amount as well. Just lots of neglect here.

Yea. ive killed those CSS pads by buffing in the sun. The velcro starts to melt first. I think making it wetter makes it worse cause it lets it transfer heat until the middle once it becomes saturated lol
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Old May 28, 2015 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Sint3k
Yea. ive killed those CSS pads by buffing in the sun. The velcro starts to melt first. I think making it wetter makes it worse cause it lets it transfer heat until the middle once it becomes saturated lol
lol yeh thats why i called it quits after a half hour, gonna tackle it again tomorrow, gotta hook up my pin stripe remover and go to town on the fenders before i get into those. Also gonna mask the car off this time so i dont get compound dust everywhere. lol
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Old May 29, 2015 | 04:50 PM
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not too bad, considering the car was almost gray from scratches



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Old May 30, 2015 | 04:51 PM
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kinda pissed, damn pinstripe burned through the clear, fought me tooth and nail coming off with the eraser wheel. First car ive ever had this many problems with. Went over it with some 3000 grit and it still shows a little bit.

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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 07:24 PM
  #75  
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mmmm, ill get some lobe comparisons in a few days before it goes in

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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 08:04 PM
  #76  
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Good looking build.

I might have missed it, but what cam did you select?
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by bfurches
Good looking build.

I might have missed it, but what cam did you select?
schneider 272-78RH http://schneidercams.com/272-78RH_LShydroller.aspx
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by spawne32
What size rockers are you going to run? Is this a low end torque cam?
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by rottonj
What size rockers are you going to run? Is this a low end torque cam?
stock rockers, probably will do the trunion upgrade not to long down the road. It's got a custom lift spec I provided them so its closer to .550 lift on both lobes. I went off of alot of 5.3 lq9 builds to choose these specs, 210/218, 212/218 and the 214/218 seem to be fairly common low to mid range stump puller cams. Should work well with the stock converter. We will see what the dyno says.
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by spawne32
stock rockers, probably will do the trunion upgrade not to long down the road. It's got a custom lift spec I provided them so its closer to .550 lift on both lobes. I went off of alot of 5.3 lq9 builds to choose these specs, 210/218, 212/218 and the 214/218 seem to be fairly common low to mid range stump puller cams. Should work well with the stock converter. We will see what the dyno says.
What do you think the power band will be?
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