Missing the point no matter the temp dex 6 will be a "thin" fluid no matter the heat or cold

 

Ok cool then I'll be happy with mine it was funny when I brought the220 up the dealer said thT was normal I said u full of **** and then the reman one blew up and I said I'm gonna keep blowing em up while they are free ****** but then I put cooler on and now don't curse so much

 

Ok, so the engine is designed to stay around 210 - 220 degree's.......
The transmission shares the same radiator.......
Yes it is normal for the transmission to be around the 200-225 range.......

You can make them cooler with an aftermarket cooler, but i would agree it is normal........ Despite what anyone else tells you....

 

I agree, its probably normal by GM standards(remember this v6 transmission was their choice also behind a v8) . Failure rate has to have something due to running hot, something they have not acknowledged for fear of spending millions on recalls. These can reach about 240 pretty easily, seems pretty hot to me. Probably a combination of internal parts used and the cramped engine compartment retaining heat isn't helping either.

 

Your right, its probably the single leading cause to the failure rate of these transmissions on these cars. Comparable GTP's and other v6 w-bodies don't come nearly this close in temperature on the transmission. My friends GTP even heavily modified barely cracked 200* after hot laps with the track. Thing is, what GM considers normal, isnt necessarily "Good" as i have learned throughout the years, especially when it comes to tuning.

 

You guys are leaving out the biggest factor of our transmission tune from the factory and dod operation. These things are programmed with a metric **** ton of tcc slip and low pressure and high shift times. The v6 guys also do not have the amount of whp and wheel tour we that we have from the factory. Apples to oranges

 

There is not much in the tune other then the ridiculous level of torque management that would cause the trans to be hotter abnormally. The shift times are all on par with most FWD transmissions, and so are the shift pressures. The force motor current table is a little wonky compared to others I have seen, but the car would not accept changes to that table without going into limp mode. I have not seen any excessive slip programmed into the TCC either. Dave from triple edge said that the issue was more or less the hardware the trans was built with, the TCC apply valves, main line pressure, etc all physical parts within the valve body that caused premature failures, especially with the TCC clutch. I have all of his upgrade parts and even still, the trans runs hot, even with the performance ratio boost valve from sonnax to increase line pressure, and the shift kit, and a 5% increase on all the line pressure tables.

It is a mis-interpretation that the "shift time" table some how relates to more slip or the trans shifting slow. The shift times merely allow a maximum "dead time" so to speak for shift speed before the trans goes into limp mode. For instance, with all the physical modification, my trans will never see higher then a .2 second shift time. Despite the fact that the shift time table is programmed for very much higher. Now if you try to decrease that shift time table below what the trans can ever achieve, the trans throws a shift time error, and forces the trans into a limp mode, which causes decreased line pressure, primarily on downshifts. Remember, there are transmissions that shift fast, and transmissions that shift hard, but the two are not one in the same. You cant even feel my transmission shift it changes gears so fast, all you see is the tach suddenly drop as it goes into the next gear, that is the kind of shifting you want, not one that rips the mounts out of their sockets on every shift,as thrilling as it may feel.

 

ok guys a lot of good info there,clears some stuff up for me thanks

 

In case you were wondering, the cooler has worked exceptionally well, far better then I expected, i was only expecting about a 10-20 degree drop, but I have yet to see over 185* at all, even sitting in traffic on a 90 degree day with crazy humidity. The AC condenser fan just amplifies the cooling effect even more, it takes a good long while for the fluid to actually get hot, and the ac fan just keeps it cool on those really really hot days. Im curious to see how it will do with some hot laps at the track.

 

That's great! Now get your car to the track so we can see what that bad boy will do lol.

 

thats cool but 5 degrees is not gonna make me change over,but if i would have known this existed i would have gone with it,its cool stuff keeps evolving with our cars

 

Curious if anyone has found any solutions to the dinky 7/8" radiator or the ridiculous under hood temps these cars have. I got to put the car to the test the other day with an hour and 15 minutes road trip up and back and 90% highway driving, after about 30 minutes of driving the car just could not keep itself cool. Consistently 210-217* ECT and 100-110* IAT temps, trans cooler did its job and kept the fluid at roughly 200-210* which would have other wise have been 20-30 degrees higher. Converter was locked throughout the entirety of the highway cruise as well with very little slip at all which is why i was surprised by how hot it was running. When i came off the highway and finally got to come to stop and go traffic the IAT would shoot up to 170+, ECT remained fine with the fans running full bore to keep the car cool but the under hood temps just skyrocketed and the crossover pipe baked the MAF and silicone coupler on the CAI intake. Trans cooler once again performing its function dropped to less then 200* in a matter of minutes after getting off the highway.

I'm considering going to either a 70/30 water/coolant mix with water wetter or finding a larger radiator or an inferno hood. Would rather have gotten the SLP hood but apparently that was only a concept hood and never released?

 

did you reprogram your fans?, Like i mentioned earlier your trans temps would not be that high in a standalone configuration. driving from arizona to georgia never got over 172 i never see higher than 196ect with a stock thermostat. and IAT never go higher than 115 while sitting in traffic. if you havent wrapped your crossover id do so.

I just dont buy into GM engineered these cars to run at these temperatures. when we all know reliability goes out the window the higher the componet temperatures

 

Told you before I wont use a stand alone cooler when I know that we get sub zero temperatures here in the winter, I need my trans to be able to warm up to operating temperature in the winter time, and in a reasonable amount of time as well. The crossover is wrapped, but the front header is not, so that is on the to do list now.

 

these are my current fan settings, no way to set the on temp on the E67, but once it comes on it wont shut off

 

your fan settings are way aggressive but should be doing you better than that. only way of having lower turn on temps is with the hp custom os which gives you 163 and up. i was looking at radiators myself im sure theres a better alternative out there. but honestly i haven had the need.....yet

 

I've considered replacing the entire fan assembly but im not sure that is the problem. I've only ever once seen a fan motor get "tired" and not spin up to full RPM but the car had almost 300k on it of continual fan use.

 

If you have not yet removed the cowl weather-strip start there. An old racers trick was to shim the rear hood hinge bolt with a flat washer or spacer, not a great look but it worked for releasing heat under the hood.

 

Those are all things I've done on my car as well. Been so long forgot all about it. Water will not come in the engine Bay either.

 

Spawne32 try the wetter water, I have used it in the past and it flat out works. I did not try it when I did the flush, I had a bottle and forgot about it. Not sure if you are using Dex-Cool or not but if so just be sure its compatible. I have searched also for larger radiators and found nothing either, it doesn't really matter because there is no room for it. Try a 180 degree thermostat maybe, attack it as a combination and maybe these will all add upp to something. I have also read here you can relocate some temp reading sensor which could help.