Slow passenger window? Check this out.
09-06-2007, 01:33 PM
#382
Launching!
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Well, I just bought one. So when it comes in I cant wait to get it installed. I hate having to lean over and lift that damn window up even tho I just bought new motors.
09-06-2007, 03:54 PM
#383
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I just did this mod today. My passenger window was so bad it had to be pulled up. I was sure the motor was shot. After rewiring it, the window hauls ***. With the original 13 year old motor still installed it's faster than the driver side window with a new motor installed.
DO THIS MOD!
Re'
DO THIS MOD!
Re'
09-26-2007, 07:44 PM
#385
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I finally wired mine up today. Took about 35 minutes. The passenger window works great now and the directions were excellent, very well written. Thanks for a great solution to a bad problem. Too bad for me I already bought a new motor and now I don't need it.
10-12-2007, 03:59 PM
#387
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I am with RedFirehawk... Your kit does what you state it does, but that is not the problem almost in every case.
There is simply no way aroung the fact that the breaker in the window motor is not a solid state switch that just sets and resets itself. As the motor operates against the load of the window and its linkage and tracks, the load on the circuit increases (Amperage). If the load is great enough, the Amperage will produce high levels of heat throughout the circuit. The window breaker, as you correctly described above, is sensitive to this heat. If enough heat is generated, it will cause the element inside the breaker to increases resistence to the point of being an open in the circuit. While in the big picture this happens instantly, it is indeed a gradual process. The breaker then gradually lowers its resistence as the overamperage condition and heat subsides and if the condition persists, it will continue to go open repeatedly. This is going to happen no matter what - with or without your kit. The potential supplied to the circuit is nearly irrelevant. The increase in resistence is due not to carbon build up on the brushes and armature, (although that does occurr in small amounts) but due to the breaker itself breaking down internally and thus causing it to heat up prematurely and go open under much lower Amperage loads than it should and does when new. The breaker was made by the cheapest bidder, as you also accurately stated above.
You stated that your kit does not "exhibit those characterisics" when referring the breaker failure interrupting window operation. Well I have gotten the passenger motor breaker to trip even with your kit installed and while it was under heavy use, I would not consider it so ridiculously excessive to not ever occurr for anybody, ever. But the bottom line is that of course your kit doesn't show those characteristics... It does nothing to address them in a positive or negative manner at all. Which also means it does nothing to fix the problem.
I installed your kit in my car and immediately my driver side window failed to operate properly. I attempted to install identical spec relays and wiring to the driver side to see if it was a voltage supply problem, and indeed that was not the case and using relays and a direct battery voltage feed did nothing to cure it. What did cure the problem was opening up the motor and replacing the internal breaker with a length of copper wire.
I've studied the circuit heavily both on paper and on the car.
Your kit might be addressing a circuit design flaw with regards to the passenger window voltage supply, but just listen to how many of us that have purchased your kit have immediately or persistently had problems with either the passenger or driver side motors not operating properly.
If it is speed you are addressing, well indeed, that is one thing and your kit does what you state it does in increasing the potential for the passenger motor which should increase its speed - IF, and that is a big if, the internal motor breaker exhibits proper resistence levels. But your kit does not repair the fault when a window does not operate at all or completely stops during operation. That is due to the internal power window motor breaker.
There is simply no way aroung the fact that the breaker in the window motor is not a solid state switch that just sets and resets itself. As the motor operates against the load of the window and its linkage and tracks, the load on the circuit increases (Amperage). If the load is great enough, the Amperage will produce high levels of heat throughout the circuit. The window breaker, as you correctly described above, is sensitive to this heat. If enough heat is generated, it will cause the element inside the breaker to increases resistence to the point of being an open in the circuit. While in the big picture this happens instantly, it is indeed a gradual process. The breaker then gradually lowers its resistence as the overamperage condition and heat subsides and if the condition persists, it will continue to go open repeatedly. This is going to happen no matter what - with or without your kit. The potential supplied to the circuit is nearly irrelevant. The increase in resistence is due not to carbon build up on the brushes and armature, (although that does occurr in small amounts) but due to the breaker itself breaking down internally and thus causing it to heat up prematurely and go open under much lower Amperage loads than it should and does when new. The breaker was made by the cheapest bidder, as you also accurately stated above.
You stated that your kit does not "exhibit those characterisics" when referring the breaker failure interrupting window operation. Well I have gotten the passenger motor breaker to trip even with your kit installed and while it was under heavy use, I would not consider it so ridiculously excessive to not ever occurr for anybody, ever. But the bottom line is that of course your kit doesn't show those characteristics... It does nothing to address them in a positive or negative manner at all. Which also means it does nothing to fix the problem.
I installed your kit in my car and immediately my driver side window failed to operate properly. I attempted to install identical spec relays and wiring to the driver side to see if it was a voltage supply problem, and indeed that was not the case and using relays and a direct battery voltage feed did nothing to cure it. What did cure the problem was opening up the motor and replacing the internal breaker with a length of copper wire.
I've studied the circuit heavily both on paper and on the car.
Your kit might be addressing a circuit design flaw with regards to the passenger window voltage supply, but just listen to how many of us that have purchased your kit have immediately or persistently had problems with either the passenger or driver side motors not operating properly.
If it is speed you are addressing, well indeed, that is one thing and your kit does what you state it does in increasing the potential for the passenger motor which should increase its speed - IF, and that is a big if, the internal motor breaker exhibits proper resistence levels. But your kit does not repair the fault when a window does not operate at all or completely stops during operation. That is due to the internal power window motor breaker.
10-18-2007, 06:09 PM
#388
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Ok, I think there is a big miscommunication error here... Its seems to me that the terminology used throughout these disputs was been what is getting us ( or me at least ) off track.
I think that the terms causing the problems (for me) are: 'circuit breaker' and 'thermal switch'. When I read circuit breaker, I instantly think of the fuse box mounted device for the whole circuit; and the thermal switch, which is the referred to "Internal Circuit breaker" for each individual window lift motor. So after stepping back and reading the posts again, esspecially yours, I can see how we ended up here. The terms were thrown around so loosely that at times we were talking about different things...tring to defend what we each thought was being discussed. All in all, your desciption is what awakened me to this. Your post is right on, I couldnt have explained any better, and yes I agree; If you persistantly use the window (with or without autotrix) it will fail due to the motors thermal proxy switch. Our kit is designed for the passenger side window motor only- I wonder what is up with your drivers side window motor because I cannot see how our products install could hinder the its performance. No, our kit isnt a fix-all, it really is a ploy for window motor life longevity when installed with a fresh motor. However, there have been numerous amounts of people with original motors rejoicing for greatly improved motor operation. Thats not the case for everyone though...
I think that the terms causing the problems (for me) are: 'circuit breaker' and 'thermal switch'. When I read circuit breaker, I instantly think of the fuse box mounted device for the whole circuit; and the thermal switch, which is the referred to "Internal Circuit breaker" for each individual window lift motor. So after stepping back and reading the posts again, esspecially yours, I can see how we ended up here. The terms were thrown around so loosely that at times we were talking about different things...tring to defend what we each thought was being discussed. All in all, your desciption is what awakened me to this. Your post is right on, I couldnt have explained any better, and yes I agree; If you persistantly use the window (with or without autotrix) it will fail due to the motors thermal proxy switch. Our kit is designed for the passenger side window motor only- I wonder what is up with your drivers side window motor because I cannot see how our products install could hinder the its performance. No, our kit isnt a fix-all, it really is a ploy for window motor life longevity when installed with a fresh motor. However, there have been numerous amounts of people with original motors rejoicing for greatly improved motor operation. Thats not the case for everyone though...
Last edited by autotrix; 10-18-2007 at 06:21 PM.
