400hp
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400hp
I know its possable to squeeze 400hp out of a stock bottom lt1. I just was wondering what cam to use, what headwork is needed, etc. Can someone help me with this? The motor is coming out this winter so im in need of advice. Thanks!
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unlimted budget:
big heads, big cam, LT4 intake
limited budget: (what I'm gonna do)
ported stock intake manifold, cc503 cam, and a 100 shot of nitrous. that should put down at least 425 whp. of course you need supporting mods for either budget.
or get a procharger
big heads, big cam, LT4 intake
limited budget: (what I'm gonna do)
ported stock intake manifold, cc503 cam, and a 100 shot of nitrous. that should put down at least 425 whp. of course you need supporting mods for either budget.
or get a procharger
#3
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http://www.elliottsportworks.com/lt1.html
Take a look at the LE2 package..depending on what cam you go with and the supporting mods you already have done you can squeeze 400+ with that Lloyd set up.
Take a look at the LE2 package..depending on what cam you go with and the supporting mods you already have done you can squeeze 400+ with that Lloyd set up.
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http://www.elliottsportworks.com/lt1.html
Take a look at the LE2 package..depending on what cam you go with and the supporting mods you already have done you can squeeze 400+ with that Lloyd set up.
Take a look at the LE2 package..depending on what cam you go with and the supporting mods you already have done you can squeeze 400+ with that Lloyd set up.
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Long tube's
FIPK
230 Duration Cam
Good set of springs
You'll need heads for 400rwhp tho.
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Ported heads / bigger cam + the basic bolt-ons are an easy route to 400rwhp N/A
and the bottom end will run just fine as long as you pick a sensible cam that peaks
in a usable RPM range. (something in the 230* duration range works well for our cars)
Nothing wrong with doing it using N20 or FI either.
In fact, a good well-though-out plan includes proper head/cam selection to match your long-term ambitions.
and the bottom end will run just fine as long as you pick a sensible cam that peaks
in a usable RPM range. (something in the 230* duration range works well for our cars)
Nothing wrong with doing it using N20 or FI either.
In fact, a good well-though-out plan includes proper head/cam selection to match your long-term ambitions.
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good heads like a stage ii setup, port matched manifold with 58mm throttle body, long tubes, and a cam in the 230+ duration and .570+ lift range on a 112lsa shoujld get you real close.....
my 355 was built like this and was stock crank with a longer 6" rod.... but you could do almost the same thing with a 5.7" stock rod... my car made 422 RWHP in that config on motor..... so it was making all of 500 at the flywheel.....
my 355 was built like this and was stock crank with a longer 6" rod.... but you could do almost the same thing with a 5.7" stock rod... my car made 422 RWHP in that config on motor..... so it was making all of 500 at the flywheel.....
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I basically want a street warrior, something strong and reliable as it is my summer daily driver. I wont be hitting the track too often if ever. Im more into the handeling and just street performace. And no i cant afford to have it break, im not going to run a blower or nitrous though. I do plan on getting full cnc port and polish with 2.02 1.60 valves, pacesetter longtubes, my fipk, fully ported intake manifold and 58mm tb, holley 36lb injectors with hi flow rails air fuel pressure regulator. So my main questions are what cam, pushrods, rockers, or any other parts that need to be upgraded. Iv wanted to do this for years and have done tons of reading but now that its actually happening i see the gaps in my knowledge so all you guy's help is very appreciated....sorry this is so long
Last edited by 93TAJ.C.; 11-04-2008 at 09:26 PM.
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LE2 all day. As long as you dont run a smaller cam you will have 400rwhp no problem. With the supporting mods everyone is talking about you could maybe hit 410, 415 rw.
But making that hp will come at a high rpm in a LT1. If you really cant afford to blow the shortblock i wouldnt do a cam, especially if your higher miles. Your just asking for it.
But making that hp will come at a high rpm in a LT1. If you really cant afford to blow the shortblock i wouldnt do a cam, especially if your higher miles. Your just asking for it.
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well in that case the only thing that really lacks the strength to hold rpm's is your rod bolts so if you get ARP bolts and a rebuild/refresh i'd say you can run the rpms up to about 6500 or so safely.