LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

electric water pump?

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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 01:48 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by ulakovic22
You are assuming that the work needed to spin the alternator is proportional to that needed to move water. If your claim is true then at speeds where the electric waterpump and mechanical waterpump move the same amount of water there should be no gain in horsepower because the mechanical loss on the cam is replaced by the mechanical loss of spinning the alternator. There should only be a gain in horsepower where the electric flows less water. IIRC there is a gain across the whole RPM band when dyno'd before/after of approx. 10hp/10tq. Maybe someone can post the chart. I have one, but I did an intake and waterpump at the same time.
http://www.ws6.com/image/meziere.jpg
http://www.projecttransam.com/images/MezeireDyno.jpg

We can all agree that cars gain about 10rwhp from the mod
and most of us have found that there do not appear to be any drawbacks
to running the EWP (as far as the ability to cool under DD or racing condition).

I'm inclined to believe, that much like the radiator fans, any additional flow
gained at high RPM from the mechanical pump is unnecessary.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 02:04 PM
  #42  
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Thanks for posting the graphs. It appears that at no time does the mechanical result in more horsepower over an electric so that alone disproves 96's theory. With the two different graphs though one shows no gain until higher RPM's which helps support 96's theory, but it isn't accompanied by the opposite of more HP in the lower RPM's where the reverse is true that the mechanical flows less. The other graph of course discounts 96's theory all together because there is a gain across the board with the electric not just in the higher RPM's.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 02:05 PM
  #43  
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I believe the whole point of the ewp is to reduce rotational mass on the engine. Just as underdrive pullies supposedly do, or going from mechanical fans to electric. If the engine has to work less to run, it's going to increase efficiency. Ever notice how much less responsive a car feels when you kick it down with the ac on, and gas mileage suffers a bit too. For the guy lookin to get every last hp out of his combo and has done every other mod, the ewp is not a bad idea! For the guy that just has a few bolton's and it's a daily driver, the 200.00 could be better spent elsewhere!
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 02:07 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by kinglt-1
I believe the whole point of the ewp is to reduce rotational mass on the engine. Just as underdrive pullies supposedly do, or going from mechanical fans to electric. If the engine has to work less to run, it's going to increase efficiency.
What Dwayne is saying is that you are simply transferring the drag on the motor to the alternator.
Which is true. But we're not seeing as much HP loss with the EWP.
(see my previous note)
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 03:41 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by James Montigny
What Dwayne is saying is that you are simply transferring the drag on the motor to the alternator.
Which is true. But we're not seeing as much HP loss with the EWP.
(see my previous note)
Ok this is where I am confused with the discussion on this. Does the drag on alternator variate based on consumption? I thought it was just producing an available amount of power regardless of whether is used or not.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 03:45 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by 97LT1
Ok this is where I am confused with the discussion on this. Does the drag on alternator variate based on consumption? I thought it was just producing an available amount of power regardless of whether is used or not.
Yes, it does.
Amps are "pulled"
Thus, the additional 6-8A pulled by the EWP increases drag by the alt.
(Note Dwayne's jumpstart example above)

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-CAE5Vhy...ech/kb233.html
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 03:46 PM
  #47  
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Yes it does vary based on consumption, which is much of the reason why people are supposed to turn off every light and electrical power source when jumping a car, you'll also notice that when jumping a car the car providing the juice is working harder b/c of the extra strain on the alternator.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 03:52 PM
  #48  
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To take it a step further, HP consumption on most GM alternators is about 1HP/25amps, so a 140 amp alt. can use up to approx. 5-6 HP to generate that. Of course that is at max load, which the alt. isn't running at all the time.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 03:56 PM
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with a good fully charged battery, you can remove the belt at the dragstrip. even with an ewp. i've seen removing the belt alone, pick an lt1 up .15 in the 8th mile and get atleast 3 passes in before needing charged.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by lt1taracing
with a good fully charged battery, you can remove the belt at the dragstrip. even with an ewp. i've seen removing the belt alone, pick an lt1 up .15 in the 8th mile and get atleast 3 passes in before needing charged.
Absolutely! Bypassing PS and Alt are great ways to pick up a few HP at the tires. (or rather, lose less)
I'm not sure I'd do 3 passes LOL ... I've seen 1 or 2 done.
.15 seems a little much ... but I suppose it's possible on some cars. .007-.010 seems to be the norm.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 04:22 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by ******
...The fact that is, in my case, the mechanicals were all failing due to leaking. They still "worked" in terms of cooling the car but killed Opti's.

My reason for going with the Meizere was to put a WP in that would not leak on the Opti. Any performance or cooling gains were just a bonus.
...
I especially agree with this point. Not only are optis expensive, they are a pita to replace. And we all know what a bad reputation they have, mainly due to the water pump failing, IIRC.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 06:30 PM
  #52  
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ulaovic22 you need to go back to science class.

You are claiming more work can be done by converting the rotation to electricity and then back to rotation. That is the definition of a perpetual motion machine.

I would argue it is hard to see the low speed difference between the pumps on the dyno because the mechanical surpasses the electrics flow a LOT sooner than you guys want to believe. I know I keep harping on it but the electrics are freeflow and as I said a simple impeller not positive displacement so they are easily restricted.
The WS6.com graph shows them too close to call till up around 2500-3000rpms which is pretty much what I would expect. Thank you James for posting both graphs.

If the tiny rotating mass on a small diameter of the WP drive was meaningful then skinnies would be worth seconds, granted it is not spinning as fast but it is a LOT more weight reduction on a lot larger diameter. Anyone found a gain like that from skinnies?? I don't know never used them.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 07:12 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
ulaovic22 you need to go back to science class.

You are claiming more work can be done by converting the rotation to electricity and then back to rotation. That is the definition of a perpetual motion machine.

I would argue it is hard to see the low speed difference between the pumps on the dyno because the mechanical surpasses the electrics flow a LOT sooner than you guys want to believe. I know I keep harping on it but the electrics are freeflow and as I said a simple impeller not positive displacement so they are easily restricted.
The WS6.com graph shows them too close to call till up around 2500-3000rpms which is pretty much what I would expect. Thank you James for posting both graphs.

If the tiny rotating mass on a small diameter of the WP drive was meaningful then skinnies would be worth seconds, granted it is not spinning as fast but it is a LOT more weight reduction on a lot larger diameter. Anyone found a gain like that from skinnies?? I don't know never used them.
The amount of power being used by alternator to generate enough amps for an EWP is no where near the same as a mechanical pump forcing 65+gpm of coolant through tiny passages.

The small fraction of a hp(6-8 amps, so around 1/4 of a hp maybe?) it takes the alt to power an EWP is a lot less then what is being wasted by the factory pump working overtime at WOT.

Sure, its no miricle mod - and the money could be better spent on something else on a mild bolt on car...but for the more serious builds the gains are real and the negatives are a lot less serious then you seem to be trying to make people believe Doesn't the stock wp not work well at higher then factory rpms anyway due to fumbling in its own turbulence??? I remember some interesting discussions on that quite some time ago. That may be a benefit to those spinning 6500+ that has not been brought up yet either
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 07:22 PM
  #54  
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96 gets into things more far then they really need be. It's kinda ridiculous, sorry man . I realize you have more smarts when it comes to E=Mc2 but seriously man. FACT IS, the pump makes more power over the stock and 90% of people have had good luck with them as a aftermarket replacement pump...PERIOD. End this debate over non sense!
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 07:39 PM
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sorry to hijack here but when you put in an EWP what happens to the drive that used to run the mechanical pump?
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 07:46 PM
  #56  
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It free spins out the front of the timing cover unless you remove the timing cover to plug the hole and remove the gear itself from the block.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 08:11 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
ulaovic22 you need to go back to science class.
Care to explain why?

Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
You are claiming more work can be done by converting the rotation to electricity and then back to rotation. That is the definition of a perpetual motion machine.
I'm not claiming anything, you said that electric frees up more horsepower because it moves less water. That is complete bullshit that isn't backed up by any facts. I even went so far as to explain why and someone posted up graphs that supported it.

Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
I would argue it is hard to see the low speed difference between the pumps on the dyno because the mechanical surpasses the electrics flow a LOT sooner than you guys want to believe. I know I keep harping on it but the electrics are freeflow and as I said a simple impeller not positive displacement so they are easily restricted.
I know you would argue because your bullshit theory got disproved. It's hard to see the low speed benefit of a mechanical, seriously? You said a mechanical outflows at approx. 2500 RPM, now that the graph doesn't support that you change your answer to say you believe it is A LOT sooner. What is A LOT sooner, idle? If that's the case then why do electric pumps keep the engine cooler in stop and go traffic and only begin to creep up when cruising at higher RPMs on the highway like all the "bright" people have reported?

Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
The WS6.com graph shows them too close to call till up around 2500-3000rpms which is pretty much what I would expect. Thank you James for posting both graphs.
No one is disagreeing with you on that, I even said it supported your theory although it doesn't show the mechanical advantage below your magic number of 2500 RPM.....oh wait, I forgot that number has now changed to A LOT sooner.

Another thing that you should consider is that for a given change in RPM you need to calculate the power needed to accelerate the impeller as well. Much like calculating parasitic drivetrain losses on a given engine. If you have two engines one making 1,000 and the other making 500 they both lose 15%, why does the 1,000hp engine lose more overall horsepower than the 500hp engine. It's because of the work needed to accelerate the rotating assembly faster. That's why the hp difference between the electric and mechanical gets bigger as RPM increases, it takes more work/power to accelerate the impeller where as on the electric it spins at a constant RPM using a constant draw so there is virtually no parasitic loss.
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