lol 
Heading to the dyno...any guesses???
I made 312 with no cam and stock heads. I'm putting the ported heads on right now along with the ported intake. Will be heading back to the dyno soon. I'm even hoping for 320. LOL
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From: Central Valley, CA
that is pretty respectable through a bolt on m6, i am an a4 so I couldn't get that much with just bolt ons but I thought a cam swap should give me something!!
i'd say a little higher than what everyine else is saying. maybe around 325 rwhp or so? Dyno numbers should'nt be important, its just a tool to tune the car. Im sure with ur setup it will make for a pretty nasty street/strip car.
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From: Central Valley, CA
ohh alright, well don't let everyone get you down. and most of them are right, dyno's are tunning tools, auto's and dyno's were never ment to go together, but at the track you trap speed will really tell you what kinda power your making, and i totally agree with the post a couple up, you will embarass M6 cars at the track who dyno 20-35 maybe ever 40 horse more just because each shift they burn out, and they don't leave half as well as a stalled auto.
buddy of mine has a 2000 M6 Firehawk SLP rated 345hp stock, with bolt on's and that should put him at 345 to the wheels or somewhere near that, and i rape him at the track everytime and im on a stock slipping converter.
buddy of mine has a 2000 M6 Firehawk SLP rated 345hp stock, with bolt on's and that should put him at 345 to the wheels or somewhere near that, and i rape him at the track everytime and im on a stock slipping converter.
I was aiming for 350+ I know it is a smaller cam than most but I couldn't spin that short block past 6400 and I wanted a cam that would be on the downward slide around the same time. Stock heads don't stop flowing until around 6200 even with much larger cams. What do you guys think my limiting factor is?? I know factory heads are capable of more than 320 horse
I say 320-330
you'd be suprised what 320-330 is a stalled auto actually runs like though
my 325rwhp car ran door-to-door and pulled some bolton ls1's (from rolls), figure your average bolt-on 6 speed ls1 is good for anywhere from 320-350rwhp
this is the world of stalled auto cars, don't expect dyno numbers to be phenominal, the track is your real measurement
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From: Holland Twp/Milford, New Jersey
I'm going to guess you'll be right around 400-415hp at the motor. Through an A/T, that'll put you around 320-330 to the ground (if you can keep it on the ground)!
EDIT: Maybe if you get an LS1 driveshaft you'll gain some HP back??? It's a cheap and easy install.
EDIT: Maybe if you get an LS1 driveshaft you'll gain some HP back??? It's a cheap and easy install.
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I know there is some pararsitic loss from an auto but I didn't think it was really that much. When they are on the dyno both cars are on a 1 to 1 ratio in 3rd gear in an auto, and I am not sure in an m6 so at a 1 to 1 ratio the only real big factor for a parasitic loss is the torque converter. I spent big money on the converter because they claimed 97% efficiency
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From: Holland Twp/Milford, New Jersey
You have a good point. Remember though, an A/T is completely different than a M/T. There are all sorts of planetary gears inside that just eat up power. Once the TC is at full lock, then 97% efficiency is definitely do-able. But most of it is in the trans.
I know there is some pararsitic loss from an auto but I didn't think it was really that much. When they are on the dyno both cars are on a 1 to 1 ratio in 3rd gear in an auto, and I am not sure in an m6 so at a 1 to 1 ratio the only real big factor for a parasitic loss is the torque converter. I spent big money on the converter because they claimed 97% efficiency
Why are you so caught up on dyno numbers anyway? For example, does it really matter to you if it only puts down 315rwhp if it still beats M6's with 345 at the track?
You have to decide whether your priorities are ET's, dyno numbers, or just a fun street car - and make your goals based on that.
