I got me a Vette
#62
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From: Chicago area
No ZR1s ! Theres a couple pics on the last page. Once I get it all cleaned up Ill post some more pics.
Seems to drive fine and still feels nice and tight. The org owner wasnt much for keeping it clean(it was just a DD for him) but he did maintain it and always had the car seviced at the dealer. I wish it wasnt snowing and I could get a better look at it. Its supossed to just flurry so we'll see later in the day If I could get a good look at it.
Oh and the vette TCS works way better than a f-body's tcs. Even with almost bald tires I got up my driveway no prob, and my formula had problems with less Ice and new tires.
Seems to drive fine and still feels nice and tight. The org owner wasnt much for keeping it clean(it was just a DD for him) but he did maintain it and always had the car seviced at the dealer. I wish it wasnt snowing and I could get a better look at it. Its supossed to just flurry so we'll see later in the day If I could get a good look at it.
Oh and the vette TCS works way better than a f-body's tcs. Even with almost bald tires I got up my driveway no prob, and my formula had problems with less Ice and new tires.
#63
C4
Congratz on the purchase. I use my 95 as a DD but down here in the South we don't get much of the white stuff. Only once every four or five years maybe. If you need seat covers check out the IGGEEs. Pic below. They are slip over covers that look and fit pretty damn good for the price. My vert weighs in around 3250 lbs with the X-brace. These cars make great street/track cars as long as they are well maintained. The only draw back to drag racing one is the IRS in the rear. It doesnt take long to start breaking stuff in the rear with high hp launches or using slicks (lower than 1.6 60's). Better for a road course though. So far I've gone through U-joints and 2 transmissions/torque converters. The trans is built now though and should last. The D44(manual) rear is much stronger then the Dana 36(auto) rear. There are two companies I know of that make bolt-on solid rear conversions that will handle whatever you thow at it but they are not cheap. Hopefully if you have an A4 you got one with at least the 3.07 performance rear gear option. That makes a huge difference in how it feels. The manuals all came standard with the 3.5x gear and dann 44 rear. I recently swapped my water pump for a Meziere HD electric one. A lot of people put tubing on the weep hole of the mechanical pump to redirect water away from the opti if it should ever go. I wonder if they didnt torque it down enough or use proper gaskets since your WP was just replaced. The y-body LT1 is pretty similar to the f-body LT1 other than the 4 bolt main and a few minor things. The later LT1 y-body cars are one of the best performance bargains going right now. Mine did a 13.5 at 103mph when completely stock with a crappy 60' in summer heat. Stock they have 300hp and 340tq. I have a few mods in it now. Next is heads and cam. My favorite thing is how the interior wraps around the driver. Its low to the ground and has a cockpit feel to it. Definately fun going around curves. It may be hard to switch back to a tuck after a few months. Check out the C4 section of corvetteforum.
Last edited by rickreeves1; 01-29-2009 at 01:33 PM.
#66
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From: Chicago area
Congratz on the purchase. I use my 95 as a DD but down here in the South we don't get much of the white stuff. Only once every four or five years maybe. If you need seat covers check out the IGGEEs. Pic below. They are slip over covers that look and fit pretty damn good for the price. My vert weighs in around 3250 lbs with the X-brace. These cars make great street/track cars as long as they are well maintained. The only draw back to drag racing one is the IRS in the rear. It doesnt take long to start breaking stuff in the rear with high hp launches or using slicks (lower than 1.6 60's). Better for a road course though. So far I've gone through U-joints and 2 transmissions/torque converters. The trans is built now though and should last. The D44(manual) rear is much stronger then the Dana 36(auto) rear. There are two companies I know of that make bolt-on solid rear conversions that will handle whatever you thow at it but they are not cheap. Hopefully if you have an A4 you got one with at least the 3.07 performance rear gear option. That makes a huge difference in how it feels. The manuals all came standard with the 3.5x gear and dann 44 rear. I recently swapped my water pump for a Meziere HD electric one. A lot of people put tubing on the weep hole of the mechanical pump to redirect water away from the opti if it should ever go. I wonder if they didnt torque it down enough or use proper gaskets since your WP was just replaced. The y-body LT1 is pretty similar to the f-body LT1 other than the 4 bolt main and a few minor things. The later LT1 y-body cars are one of the best performance bargains going right now. Mine did a 13.5 at 103mph when completely stock with a crappy 60' in summer heat. Stock they have 300hp and 340tq. I have a few mods in it now. Next is heads and cam. My favorite thing is how the interior wraps around the driver. Its low to the ground and has a cockpit feel to it. Definately fun going around curves. It may be hard to switch back to a tuck after a few months. Check out the C4 section of corvetteforum.
I have no plans on racing it drag or auto-x. So far its fun to drive but I want to get the couple issues sorted out first b4 I get to crazy with it.
Thanks for the compliments guys!!!
#67
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Might as well look into an EWP if it is the pump. And might as well also consider tapping out the weep hole (or pressing in a barb fitting) to set up a drain hose down to the ground instead of ontop of the Opti lol If it wasn't your DD, I'd say go and do that LSx PCM Opti Mod that AKAFRED came up with :\ Still needs fine tuning (no pun intended) though.
#68
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From: Chicago area
LOL! No mods what so ever on this one. Although I was thinking of putting on a EWP. Water temp gauge doesnt work but the coolant in the res is warm so the pump is working and coolant wasnt low at all, all other fluids look fine. So really just need to fix the coolant leak. and get some new tires for it and it should be fine. I still need to pull the PS valve cover and see what the ticking is. I brought tools to work to pop it off but I brought the right tools to pop an F-body VC and the vette has torx VC bolts.! I also dont see any water on the opti, and it seems to work fine.
#69
LOL! No mods what so ever on this one. Although I was thinking of putting on a EWP. Water temp gauge doesnt work but the coolant in the res is warm so the pump is working and coolant wasnt low at all, all other fluids look fine. So really just need to fix the coolant leak. and get some new tires for it and it should be fine. I still need to pull the PS valve cover and see what the ticking is. I brought tools to work to pop it off but I brought the right tools to pop an F-body VC and the vette has torx VC bolts.! I also dont see any water on the opti, and it seems to work fine.
#70
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Get used to using the torx. They are all over the place on the C4's. The 95's have two temp sensors. The one for the digital reading is in the front of the water pump and the other for the analogue gauge is in side of the block on the passengers side below the center of the head. Unless I have the two reversed which is very possible.
#72
The analogue sending unit on the passenger side uses a different connector. I believe it's usually referred to as a sending unit not a sensor like the one at the water pump housing. I don't have a part number for it at the moment.
Last edited by rickreeves1; 01-29-2009 at 05:50 PM.
#74
If you press the black gauges button on the console a few times it will scoll through different digital readings on the LCD. The digital temp sensor in the Water pump housing is the one that is actually fed into the PCM. You have to be real carefull when changing the s-belt on this thing not to hack it off. Did that once already.
#76
http://www.hitch-web.com/proDescrip....e=466140&OID=8
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-93...Q5fAccessories
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...4&dept_id=1406
http://www.vettequest.com/
#78
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
The one thing I'm not a fan of, is that digital speedo. It's so bloody slow. Who knows, maybe it's a slow sensor, or the PCM, but I'd like it to just blow through the numbers instead of skipping them