Yeah, I havent pulled it apart yet, still driving it around. It's my daily driver and only car at the moment. I'm going to start Saturday. I dont have the capability to weld so I'm going to have to find the right size freeze plug to hammer in there. I actually took that picture when I installed my EWP a couple of months ago. I installed the pump right over the coupler and everything.

I have about 118k miles on it I believe. I don't know where all the funk came from. Theres no obvious leaks anywhere and it runs 100%. Maybe it was from an old leak. You should see the inside of the intake. I'm going to pressure wash the entire block really well once it's apart. I have a new opti for it also.

 

hey, just caught the thread searching for some cam install parts for my LS1, anyways I live in Slidell and work in Chalmette, and mid city(contracting for ***)....I haven't cam swapped an LT1 but if you need an extra set of hands shoot me a PM and i'll give you my work cell, i'm out and about almost all day Monday to Saturday. just figured i'd throw that out there

EDIT: I have a 220v MIG out here at our office getting the bottle re-filled Friday considering the parades and crap

 

Very nice of you. Thanks for the offer.




I am going to pull the rockers first. Does anyone know if you just rely on the timing chain to hold the crank in place while removing the balancer and hub? I guess I was wondering if it should be prevented from turning. I thought I saw someone chaining it to a side frame rail or something.

I got all my parts in now. I should be starting this evening or tomorrow. I thought my valve spring kit was supposed to come with shims and instructions for installing. It just has the springs, seats, and retainers in the package. Should I be concerned with spring height and shims?

Is cleaning, soaking, or oiling of any parts required?(rockers, lifters, springs, etc.) I've read many different opinions on that. Most say regular oil on cam journals and assembly lube on lobes. Any brand recomended? I also read dipping or soaking lifters after cleaning in some solution is common. I saw comp has a spray for the springs and rockers. I didnt see it at Autozone though.

Is there any sort of break in method needed? I read keeping it abouve 2000rpms for the first few minutes. Someone said something about using dino oil for startup. I thought that was only for a rebuild.? While I'm thinking of it, whats the best grade mobile 1 to use at 114k miles?

What size vacuum lines do I need for the opti? One of them is cut.

 

1) If you have a M6, put the car in gear and it will lock the crank in place. If you have an A4 (sorry for you, jk) use big flat head screwdriver to lock the flexplate from moving.

2) Yes, spring installed height is very important. It depends on the springs and application. I think most call for an installed height of 1.8", but I'd research to be sure.

3) I used cam lube on the cam and soaked the rockers, pushrods, and lifters in oil. I also dripped oil all over the rockers, springs, and pushrods ,before I bolted up the valve covers.

4) There is no break-in period for hydraulic roller cams. Just start it up, let it get to temp, check for leaks, and then let her rip!

5) http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Does anyone have an easy way to get the hub off? The ybody has a frame rail in the way. The smaller three jaw puller wont fit in the space. I have a harbor freight puller kit with various bolt sizes but its too tight of a space to use the center bolt it came with the other three bolts are also the wrong size. I went to Lowes to get a few other sizes of bolts to try. We'll see how it goes tomorrow. Any other ideas?

Is the hub and timing gear keyed to only go on one way?
__________________

Earlier today..

 

you might have to remove the two motor mount bolts and raise the engine to get the proper tool on the hub. i dont know how corvettes are setup but that seems like the only option i can think of. or make a really short hub remover like this

 

I want to thank you for creating this thread and keeping it alive with your progress. Although you're providing many of the answers to your own questions please don't stop posting. I hope to install my GM LT4 HCK when the weather permits. Your research and first hand experience will be a great help.

 

What a PITA! It took about four different bolt sizes and adjustments. I broke the first puller and had to run to the auto store for a new one and some more bolt sizes and nuts. It took the whole day just to get the hub and timing cover off. I drained the oil pan and ubolted just the first six bolts on it to drop the front. I also had to remove the three bolts holding the power steering resovoir. It was enough to get the timing cover off. Tomorrow I will finnaly be ablt to pull the timing gears and chain and swap the cam. I'm going to first remove the intake and valve covers so I can remove the lifters, pushrods, and roller rockers. I set the circle on the crank timing gear at 12 o' clock and the cam timing gear is at 6 o' clock. I'm going to undo the 3 bolts on the cam gear and hopefully it will slide off easy. Then I can pull the old cam and install the new cam. Then I am going to slide my coyles gears and chain on in the same position. Circle of crank gear at 12 o' clock and circle of cam gear at 6 o clock. Does that sound correct? Whats the best method for getting the hub back on after the timing cover? Where can I find a longer hub bolt with the fine threads to get it back on? How do you know when the hub is completely seated? I was told it was a grade 8 bolt.

I also went to over 5 different auto stores not one had a micrometer for sale. I tried NAPA, Autozone, Advance, Pep Boys, Oreilly, Car Quest, etc.. Do I really need to check the spring heigth on the new springs?


Todays Pics...

 

man that is one nasty dirty engine. look at it this way, you finished the hardest part of a LT1 cam swap which is removing the hub. after that its all pretty straight forward and "easier"

 

Yesterday went pretty well. I pulled the timing gears and chain. I also removed the intake, rockers, pushrods, lifters, oil pump stub, and scraped the old gaskets off. I then pulled the old cam and installed the new one. Today I'm going to put the Cloyes gears and chain on, attempt to remove the old springs and instrall the new ones, and pull all the old plugs. Then I'll install the lifters and measure for pushrod length. I'll have to order pushrods overnight shipping after measuring so I think I'm going to get pushed back until the weekend for finishing this project. I have work Thursday and Friday so I may be renting or burrowing a car for a couple of days. Thanks again for everyones help.

Here are yesterdays pictures...

 

Today I reinstalled the timing gears and chain. I heated the crank gear as recommended and then put the old gear and a 1.75" pipe coupler behind it. I then used a socket extension with a big socket that I was able to hammer with a small maul from in front the cross frame. So... Socket extension, big socket, flat piece of metal with handle, pipe coupler, and old gear all lined up seemed to work pretty well. I think a big socket with the right length extension would have probably worked great. Is the cam retaining plate screw supposed to be that close to my Cloyes timing gear? It spins but it's damn close. I opened up my old original opti today and I was surprised how well it help up for 118k miles and 13 years. I also pulled all the spark plugs and started to remove the first spring. The overhead compressor does not work on dual valve springs.

At that point I drove about an hour away to pick up the correct spring compressor tool. They also had a micrometer and shims. There goes another $190. They only had the expensive $100 Morel compressor in stock. :crazy: At least I can now get the correct pushrods ordered tomorrow. That is once I figure out how to measure with the pushrod length checker I bought.? Anyone? Also how do I use the micrometer? It looks like I have to put both ends where the spring goes then unscrew until the keepers lock in on the valve. Does that sound correct? I bought various size screws as recommended to reinstall the hub but how do I keep the crank from spinnig while tightening? I used an iron brick underneath the hub when removing to keep it from spinning. I really dont want to take anything else apart. Thanks

Todays pictures...

 

Yesterday went pretty well. I checked the spring height with my micrometer and everything was ok there. I then Installed all my new studs and springs. I also checked for pushrod length. Maybe someone can verify I did it correctly...

I set my pushrod length checker at the stock height of 7.200" and installed it with the roller rocker and weaker spring from Ace hardare. I could only install one side of the retainer to fit the checker in there.




I marked the top of the valve stem with a green highlighter. I then placed the rocker arm on the stud. I twisted the pushrod checker in my fingers while tightening down the rocker arm bolt. When the pushrod checker was no longer able to move I tightened the nut an additional half turn then tightened down the retainer.


I then turned the crank over by hand about four times while watching the timing mark.


I then removed the rocker arm to see where the wear pattern was on the valve stem. It was more toward the exhaust side indicating that the pushrod length was too long. I kept shortening the pushrod length checker and repeating the process until the wear patter was in the middle.


This was what the wear looked like the last time I did it. I'm bringing the pushrod checker to a local machine shop today to get it measured with a digital caliper. Most auto stores I tried did not have one long enough. I'll let you know what lenght it is.




I'm now back at work for the next two days so I wont be able to get back at it until Saturday.

Thanks

 

Seems like you could get the wear patter to be a little thinner and slightly more centered. But I am glad to see you are doing things the right way.
Also, with full roller rockers, you don't have to spin the pushrod to find zero lash, just slowly turning the lock until it stops is enough.

 

I measured the pushrod checker with a digital caliper at a local engine shop. It was 7.132 inches. I ordered the trickflow pushrods in 7.150 length overnight shipping. That was the closest in size I could find. I could either go down to 7.100 or up to 7.150 inches.

Why the difference with setting the pro mags? I don't have to adjust these for zero lash?

 

For full roller rockers, if you place the rocker over the stud and let it sit on the tip of the valve stem and the top of the rocker, all you have to do is slowly tighten the lock and it will bottom out and the lock will stop. That should be right at zero lash. Try it on a couple of rockers. Tighten them using the spin the push rod method and try using the turn the lock til it stops method, it should yield the same result. I know that it might only be saving you a few seconds, but I think its easier, more accurate, and more consistent.

 

I tried installing my lifters, pushrods, and roller rockers and adjusting for zero lash. I first brought cylinder 1 to TDC and started adjusting. I discovered that one of the rr nuts would not turn a half past once the pushrod stopped spinning. The plunger/bowl appears to be stuck on several of the lifters. How do I unstick a stuck lifter. I need to get this done this weekend. Please help.


Thanks

 

I don't see how the plunger can be getting stuck. Did you soak the lifters in oil before putting them in? Are you sure you are backing off the allen set screw far enough to tighten the lock all the way. Try this, remove the allen set screw from one of the locks completely. Then set your zero lash and add the 1/2 turn for preload, then reinstall the set screw and tighten it up. Just keep in mind that you will likely have to readjust all of your rockers with the engine running, to make sure that they are spot on.

 

Yeah, I pulled it completely off the car and tried to push in on the plunger with the pushrod and then my finger. It wont budge. It didnt soak the lifters overnight but I dipped them real good before attempting to install.

Comparing it to another lifter it looks like it is stuck in a raised position. I can't push it in with one of the pushrods like I can the other ones. No telling how long these sat on the shelf at summit. Any ideas?

 

I guess you could try soaking them in oil over night.

 

Thanks

Someone told me to remove the lifter retainer clip and see if I can free the insides of the lifter. I may have to try that also.