rickreeves1

I'm starting a new thread because I have a million questions about this. I figured it's better to keep everything in one place. I'm shooting for next weekend which is when Mardi Gras kicks into full gear. I decided to skip it this year to do the install. I should have about five days to complete the install. I'm going to install the cam without removing the motor. I have most of the parts already and the rest should be here next week. I would really appreciate all the help I can get especially next Friday(2/20) through Tuesday(2/25). I'm sure I'll be posting a lot. If anyone in the Covington La. area would like to help that would be great too. Even an emergency phone contact would be appreciated.

Here's the parts list...
Custom Grind Billet Cam 226/234, 565/565, 109 LSA
Patriot Gold Extreme Springs Kit (8501-BSBC)
Comp Pro Mag 1.6rr (1305-16)
Trick Flow Pushrod Guideplates (30400623-8)
7/16 ARP Rocker Arm Atuds (134-7103)
Trickflow Chromemoly Pushrods 7.150" (21407150)
Trickflow Adjustable Pushrod Length Checker (9000)
GM LS7 Lifters (1249935)
GM Delphi Optispark (CZ20003-11B1)
Cloyes True Roller Timing Chain (9-3145)
Meziere EWP & Wiring Harness (WP118-HD)
PSMFORLESS Updates Custom Tune
LT4 Knock Module (16214681)
Miscl. GM Gaskets
NGK TR6 Replacement Spark Plugs-Nitrous
Cam Lube
2 Gallons non DexCool Antifreeze
Engine Degreaser
Anti Seize
WD40
Specialty Tools??


Red = Already Installed

Questions to follow...

rickreeves1

I have the Factory Service Manuals. I found these tutorials/sites that I will be printing up and reading over in the coming week. These may help some others also. Please post any that I may have missed.

http://www.hashmarks.com/techtips/hot_cam.htm

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html

http://www.afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ild/index.html

http://www.zmydust.com/headsandcam.html

http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/guides.htm

http://www.97transam.com/97ta-cam.php

http://www.cis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/buildup/cam/

http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_camdata.htm

http://www.boxwrench.net/

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ar-or-out.html

rickreeves1

First couple of questions...

I was told that the oil pump driveshaft gear should be replaced due to a weak nylon piece. Does this apply to the LT1? If so whats a good replacement part?

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

not that I know of

make sure you get ahold of a harmonic dampener/hub puller and valve spring compressor

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

yes that is true. you can get the replacement from autozone. its made by melling. its one piece and the coupler is made out of metal unlike the nylon one on a stock one.

are you going to be dropping the whole oil pan? thats the only way to get to the shaft. you have to completely remove the oil pan and un bolt the oil pump.

rickreeves1

Update:

I called PCMFORLESS and emailed Bryan. I should be able to get the new tune emailed in time for the install. I asked for one tune NA and another with the 50sh, 75sh, 100sh, and 125sh of N2O. I also inquired about reusing my SV0 24# injectors or upgrading to a bigger injector and fuel system.

Thunder Racing in Baton Rouge can send the pushrods regular one day shipping. Hopefully I can get to the point of checking length and ordering them by next Monday to receive them by Tuesday. I need to call back now and make sure they keep various sizes in stock.

I called the local Checy parts dealer. They want $62 for the new oil pan gasket and $77 for the oil pump drive stub. I was told the drive stub may benifit from being replaced due to the different wear pattern of the new cam. Sounds expensive for a Oil pan gasket. I'm going to start calling around for the FelPro one. The guy knew nothing about using LS7 lifters in an LT1. I aksed him to look up a 2008 LS7 corvette and he said it lists the same part number for an LS1 (#17122490). Is that the correct part number? I need to get these ordered today to have them by Friday.

I'm still a little confused on the oil pump drive shaft. I spotted it in one of the FSM diagrams. I was told ARP and also Melling makes one. Anyone have a part number? Should I even bother with it?How difficult? It looks like you just unbolt the oil pump, remove the old one, and insert the new one. Is there enough clearance to get it out on stands?

Thanks to everyone!

FlamingChicken

iTrader: (2)

the ls7 are a direct replacement and i believe are sold as replacement ls1 lifters so the number should be correct. i bought the pump driveshaft from advance. the main reason to replace it is bc the metal collar is stronger than the nylon which can get brittle and snap. i would think the likely hood of a shaft failure to be low but there is a risk.

rickreeves1

I just called advace auto parts. They did not have a listing for the Oil Pump Drive. I also gave them the GM AC Delco # 1103868. Still nothing.

fnbrowning

Oh, since you included it on your list:
Throw the WD40 back on the shelf. All it is, is a water displacement formula made with Stoddard solvent and a light mineral oil. Use it for removing tacky bumper stickers but WD40 is not a real penetrating fluid and fails at being a general-purpose lubricant.

If you want to use a great penetrating oil, buy Kroil (the oil the creeps) from Kanolabs or some other type of professional mechanics penetrating oil.

Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, GT85, Kroil, and CRC 5-56 are available retail at many auto parts stores.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

You will be fine using the felpro oil pan gasket, it's a nice piece.

LS7 lifters will work great, but many have had to use pushrods .05" different from stock, measure for your application after you put them in.

rickreeves1

Thanks for the heads up on the WD40. I have another brand of stuff I bought to use.

New update:

I just ordered almost everything needed from Summit Racing. They had the FelPro Gaskets cheaper than Chevy. I got Felpro intake gaskets($23), Felpro one piece oil pan gasket($42), GM Valve Cover gaskets($22), SLP hardened Oil Pump driveshaft($12), LS7 lifters(#12499225 $121), NGK TR6 spark plugs($3 each), Pushrod Length Checker($12 #TFS9000). Everything should be here in about 3 days. I have most of the front gaskets that I never got to use when I did the water pump install.

I need to order the water pump gaskets and oil pump drive stub from GM. I also need to order a new vacuum line from the optspark to the intake. The old one is cut through from the belt/pully. This seems to be fairly common. I wrapped it with electric tape last time. I'm stopping by the parst dealership right now for these. I also need to pick up some longer bolts to remove the cam without scratching the journals. I have a harbor freight puller for the balancer/hub but I'm not sure if/how well this will work. I need to go back and look through some old threads. See pic below. Should I look for the other type with three legs? I also need a spring compressor. What's the cheapest/best option that I can pick up locally? I may take someones suggestion and burrow one from autozone. Will most types work with my valvetrain I've ordered? I need a ft/lbs torque wrench and an in/lbs torque wrench. The ft/lbs has to go high enough so I can do my wheel bearrings in a few weeks which I believe is 250 ft/lb. Suggestions on what torque wrenches to pick up locally?




Edit
Newer Update:

The Oil Pump stub is nowhere to be found. I've called every parts store on the planet. No one carries it but GM. I even called the local AC Delco distributor and they are also out. GM said they would have to order it from the out of state warehouse which could take anywhere from 3 days to 1.5 weeks. They can't give me an exact delivery date due to plant closing, restructuring, and ****ty weather. It looks like I'm stuck with reusing the old part. Hopefully it isnt broken or worn too bad. I found a company called Herron Performance that will soon be making a billet piece for about $130, not soon enough for me though.

FlamingChicken

iTrader: (2)

i used that same style puller for the hub/dampner. you just have to use long bolts and one in the snout. also believe the bolts in that kit should be the same pitch as the cam so no need to buy more. at least mine had the right size. craftsman torque wrenches are actually decent. checked one on the snap on truck to verify torque reading and it was same as my snap on. the oil pump drive (or stub as you call it) is gonna be dealer only but unless its damaged or cracked the base i would reuse it.

rickreeves1

So here's the pullers that are available from Autozone to rent. Which one will work best? I want a second as a backup, just in case.



Here is the valve spring compressor available to rent. Will this work on my Patriot Extreme dual springs?



I may even rent the torque wrenches from Autozone until I buy some really good ones at a latter date.

Chevyguy358

iTrader: (4)

I think your refering to the actual drive shaft for the pump and not the gear. As far as i know the gear is just made by GM, I recently searched all over for one. As a side note make sure the gear is fully seated when reinstalling it before torquing it down and follow the torque specs, thats how I damaged mine the plastic top damages easily.

rickreeves1

Some more questions:

Do I really have to wait 24 hours for the RTV to cure on the intake manifold or is there a quick drying RTV I can use?

I already have an electric water pump installed but I left the coupler and everything else on the block side. How do I remove the coupler and whatever else is on the block side before and after removeing the timing cover? What else has to come off? The picture below is how it looks now except that the EWP has been reinstalled in front of it. Someone told me what size freeze plug was needed for the hole in the timing cover and now I cant find it. Does anyone know? I'd rather do it that way than using a half dollar and JB weld.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

You don't NEED to wait 24 hours, but you definitely should if you don't want to fix it again in a day.

The coupler just slides off. Just pull on it.

When you take off the timing cover and remove the timing chain, there will be a small drive gear in the block held in by two bolts. Remove the bolts and tap the drive mechanism out from behind from inside the lifter valley. You can leave the hole in the block (in the lifter valley) unplugged with no problems (most people do).

I've heard that the plug is a 1 7/32" diameter, but why don't you want to do the simple method with either a coin or similar piece using gasket sealant? This is by far the easiest and most widely used technique.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Damn! I would have removed the opti and cleaned up a bit...

Yes, wait 24 hours so that you are sure you won't have any oil or vacuum leaks.

No, use a half dollar and weld it in, not JB weld. You have to pound out the gear shaft from inside the block. For now, just pull off the water pump gear coupler and leave the gear that sticks through the timing cover as is.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

He hasn't started yet.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Ok cool, cause I don't think I've seen much dirtier.

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

Looks like an "oil leaker" there , how many miles are on it? My **** wasn't near that oiley @ 160K when i pulled off the opti.