what brand of lifters?

 

GM/ACDELCO LS7 lifter. (GM# 17122490) I got these new from Summit. I called every parts srtore in the area no one has any. I'm stuck!

 

A buddy of mine tried the LS7 lifter with no luck either, he wound up going back to stock lifters and had to order new pushrods as well.

 

Lifter problem solved.

Yesterdays pics...

 

did soaking them over night help?

 

It doesnt seem like it did. They all seemed to have the same amount of tension even after soaking. I'm sure it was probably a good idea anyway. I think I was just way over thinking things.

Update:

I'm still not finished the install. Saturday was mostly wasted running around looking at lifters. Sunday I get done with the valve train, shaved the drip tabs, reinstalled the intake, and gapped and installed the new spark plugs. I started on the timing cover but there was still a lot of gasket I had to scrape off. I sat thinking for a while about how everything in the front was going to go back together. I figured to do this right I needed to stop the crank from spinning. I got under the car and pulled the flexplate cover. I couldnt easily see how to get a screwdriver in there and stop it from turning. So then I started to pull the oil pan. I then realized I had to remove the filter and adapter to get to that one bolt. After that I realized I also needed to pull the starter. That was another couple hours wasted on the bottom end. It was getting dark so I had to cover everything up and call it a day. Laying on the ground under the car in 30 degree weather is not a good idea. Not to mention I got a face full of oil when I was pulling the filter. I used the old stick it with a screw driver method. Not a good idea! I am now sick from the weather. I hope I'm better by Friday to finish up.



Here's the plan. Please correct me if you see something wrong.

Finish removing the starter and oil pan. Turn the crank a few times to check for clearance on the timing cover and new chain. Find TDC on cylinder one. (Crank at 12 o clock and cam at 12 o clock) Jam a screw driver in the flexplate to keep the crank from turning. Reinstall timing cover with gasket and bolt down. Install new optispark, lining up the pin slot hole to the cam sprocket pin at 3 o clock. Heat hub in oven at 250 degrees. Install hub using various size crank screws to tighten down. Line up hub arrow to 12 o clock position. Reinstall oil pan with new gasket. Reinstall filter adapter, new filter, and starter. Reinstall balancer lining the mark up at 12 o clock with the arrow on the hub. (Mark with bright orange paint) Reinstall EWP with new gaskets. Reinstall radiator, fans, shroud, etc. Reinstall fuel injectors. Connect all wires, fuel lines, and hoses. Pull fuel injector fuse and turn over a few times to oil engine. Start car for first time. Hows that sound?

 

It looks like this project is on hold for a little bit. I had to run to the ER yesterday for 105 fever and dehydration. They gave me some fluids and antibiotics so I'm starting to do much better now. Thats what I get for working on the car in 30 deg weather. The things we do for our cars.

 

Good progress on the car.

But take it easy bro. Its just a car, no use dieing over it to finish it...and not being able to drive it haha

 

I forgot to prelube the engine before putting the intake manifold back on. Now I have to use an alternative method for pre lubing. I really did put a generous amount of lube on the cam. Someone suggested I prefill the oil filter. They also said I should put some engine assembly lube in the oil pump before I put it back together. Then when starting the car I should turn it over for 20 seconds at a time with the coil unplugged from the battery. They said after two times I should have oil pressure. I am also going to soak the valve train with a quart or two before putting the covers back on.


Todays Update:

I had to shave a ton of metal off the timing cover. I fitted it first without the gasket. I hand tightened all the cover bolts and turned the crank to check for clearance. Each time the chain scraped I had to pull the cover off and shave some more. I had to do this at least 20 or 30 times. I didnt want to cut too much off at once. It still went through a little bit in one spot. It's behind the seal so I don't think it will hurt anything. The next big obsticle is getting the oil pan and new gasket back on. It should be easy after that. Only one more day to finish I think. Now if it would only stop raining.

Dad clearancing the cover.

Here you can see where we went too thin.



118k mile botom end.




Here's how I kept the flexplate from turning.


Crank hub and new opti back in.

 

Nice. You should be able to test start it soon. I've read for prelubing, you can remove the spark plugs and pull the pcm/ign fuse and crank the motor over. I haven't done it though.

 

If you went through the chain cover with the grinder, I would think that it will leak, just not out either of the seals. Isn't there a full time oil splash going on inside the cover?

 

I don't think it will. Look at how small the cut is. Plus it is behind the seal so I think it may be normal for there to be oil back there anyway. At least thats what I'm hoping. We'll see.

 

Update:

I received my new oil pan baffel early in the morning Saturday. I broke the stock one trying to remove it on Friday. The bolt just broke the thin metal off. The $6.50 part cost me $57 after next day shipping. I installed my new oil pump drive shaft and put the pump and new baffel on yesterday. The old nylon drive shaft broke apart as it fell out. I then spent the entire morning trying to get the oil pan reinstalled. Once I figured out the hole in the gasket had to go around the dipstick it only took a few minutes to get it installed. Two hours wasted fighting with it trying to figure it out followed by a few minutes of installing. Thats how just about everything has been with this cam install. If I knew what I do now I could have finished all this a long time ago. Thats why it rerally helps to have someone there whos done it before. The good news is that almost everything is back together. I have to reinstall the radiator, fans, shroud, and nitrous. I need to tighten or reconnect all hoses and electric connections. Then I have to reinstall the air ducts and ram air and I should be done. I have a new tune I have to upload also. I'm stuck at work now until next weekend. Looking forward to the startup.

 

I see what you mean now. The little slit appears to be within the pocket where the seal goes. In other words, it is to the inside of the outer diameter of the new seal. I too would imagine engine oil is present there anyway.

I'm glad you showed this. I think that I will just replace my timing chain with a new stocker now. I wasn't aware of any clearance issues with the upgraded chain and sprockets until seeing this.

 

its because he went with a double roller chain which requires some grinding of the cover. (pictures are on page 2)

 

I wanted to post how I reinstalled the hub just to keep track of everything I had done while it's still fresh in my head for future reference and for others to use...

I used a tool I had made that consisted of a 7/16 hardened rod, various size washers, and 7/16 nuts. I got the idea from here. I left the rod longer though since I was installing the hub with the engine still in the car. This allowed me to first tighten the rod all the way down in the crank from in front the steering rack using two nuts tightened against each other at the end. The crank was prevented from spinning by a small c-clamp I had placed on the flexplate against the block. I heated the stock hub in the oven to 500 degrees for about 15 minutes. I slipped it on the crank with the arrow up using oven mits. I then put the rod with the nuts and washers in the crank. I tightened the rod all the way down in the crank using the end nuts. I then tightened the nut with the washers against the hub to push it on. When the hub stopped to move easy and appeared to be all the way in I removed the rod tool. I then put in my hub bolt and tightened it down to the required torque specs.

I used my belt tensioner tool with a socket extension and socket to keep the balancer from spinning when installing it. I used the belt tensioner on the crank bolt to keep everything from spinning. The tensioner tool was in front of the steering rack and spun until it made contact with the frame. This held the hub in place and allowed me to tighten all the balancer bolts. I did have to remove it once to get the other bolts in a position where I could tighten them from in front of the steering rack.

Parts for tool...

3' length of 7/16" SAE Fine threaded rod, B7 (high strength alloy steel) grade, from http://www.nutty.com, various size washers and 7/16 fine thread nuts.

 

Question!!

Was I supposed to leave off the hub bolt spacer since I used a double roller crank gear/chain??? I can't remember the differences in thickness between the stock crank gear and the Coyles. Anyone know??

No one had mentioned it before and I just read of this today. Just about everything is back together already. Do I need to pull everything apart again or will it be ok?


Thanks

 

I would put the washer back in. It will have no effect on your timing set.

 

It's already in there. I don't see that there would be any problems either. It's just that someone had mentioned something about leaving the spacer off. I guess there's just a little less thread for the bolt to grab on to now.


Thanks

 

Update:

I loaded the new tune on today. I started it up after turning it over some with the coil disconnected. I saw the oil pressure come up after a couple of short tries. I drove it around the neighborhood for a bit then found a spot to let it rip. (Staying under the speed limit of course) It had a miss and was running a little rough on acceleration so I had to turn around and get it back home. After playing with some of the wires I thought I saw a spark arching over to one of the headers. It was arching through the heat sock. I verified by grabbing the wire and shocking the crap out of myself. I tie wrapped it back and it should be good now. I also noticed an oil leak. It did not start until I took it for a drive and got on it a bit. It is leaking from the back of the intake where I put The Right Stuff across the China wall. The leak is right at the seam above the pipe that comes off the block. I tightened down the back 4 bolts again and ran a bunch more of The Rights Stuff along the seam with my finger. I don't know if that will help. I'm going for a long drive tomorrow about an hour away so we will see. Hopefully it will run smoother also. I thought I recorded a video to post then when I got on the computer I had a 2 second 60kb video. I guess I hit the button twice. I'll get another one tomorrow.

One thing I noticed is that seems a lot louder now. I think it is because the idle is set at 850 rpms. I'm wondering if this could be lowered some without effecting driveablity. If not it may be time for some bullet mufflers mufflers out back with cut outs up front.

Something new I noticed is that my belt tensioner pulley was bouncing up and down a little bit. Is this due to the lope of the new cam? I don't remember it doing that before.