porting LT1 heads and intake manifold LOTS OF ???'s
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porting LT1 heads and intake manifold LOTS OF ???'s
i recently picked up a set of 374 LT1 heads and intake manifold and am going to port them at my school with my instructor. i have a few questions (as i am not in that class yet)...
i am going to run them through the jet clean, but to get them a little bit cleaner, what should i use? i have been using carb cleaner and a brush but it is going a little slow...
what size valves should i go with? and what manufacturer? and what is required for the bigger valves/valve job? would i need new inserts (setllite/ferrite, etc.) in the heads?
for the manifold i dont have a 58mm throttle body, so i dont need to port that in a big way, so should i just do the runners? or should i do the whole manifold?
is there a site or guide with info on porting LT1 manifolds and heads?
i am going to run them through the jet clean, but to get them a little bit cleaner, what should i use? i have been using carb cleaner and a brush but it is going a little slow...
what size valves should i go with? and what manufacturer? and what is required for the bigger valves/valve job? would i need new inserts (setllite/ferrite, etc.) in the heads?
for the manifold i dont have a 58mm throttle body, so i dont need to port that in a big way, so should i just do the runners? or should i do the whole manifold?
is there a site or guide with info on porting LT1 manifolds and heads?
#2
Ever heard the phrase "those who can't DO, teach"? There are exceptions but they are just that, exceptions.
Careful with degreasers on aluminum as most of them will do damage.
Brake parts cleaner may be helpful.
To go beyond 2.00/1.56 valves in the LT1 heads you need new inserts, lots of extra work and cost for no proven gain.
I would open up the inlet, just because you don't have a 58mm TB now doesn't mean you will never have one and opening it up wont hurt anything. Owning a good ported LT1 intake I can tell you it is not necessary to hog it out, though some folks do, to the point only the powdercoat holds it together.
Careful with degreasers on aluminum as most of them will do damage.
Brake parts cleaner may be helpful.
To go beyond 2.00/1.56 valves in the LT1 heads you need new inserts, lots of extra work and cost for no proven gain.
I would open up the inlet, just because you don't have a 58mm TB now doesn't mean you will never have one and opening it up wont hurt anything. Owning a good ported LT1 intake I can tell you it is not necessary to hog it out, though some folks do, to the point only the powdercoat holds it together.
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Ever heard the phrase "those who can't DO, teach"? There are exceptions but they are just that, exceptions.
Careful with degreasers on aluminum as most of them will do damage.
Brake parts cleaner may be helpful.
To go beyond 2.00/1.56 valves in the LT1 heads you need new inserts, lots of extra work and cost for no proven gain.
I would open up the inlet, just because you don't have a 58mm TB now doesn't mean you will never have one and opening it up wont hurt anything. Owning a good ported LT1 intake I can tell you it is not necessary to hog it out, though some folks do, to the point only the powdercoat holds it together.
Careful with degreasers on aluminum as most of them will do damage.
Brake parts cleaner may be helpful.
To go beyond 2.00/1.56 valves in the LT1 heads you need new inserts, lots of extra work and cost for no proven gain.
I would open up the inlet, just because you don't have a 58mm TB now doesn't mean you will never have one and opening it up wont hurt anything. Owning a good ported LT1 intake I can tell you it is not necessary to hog it out, though some folks do, to the point only the powdercoat holds it together.
i agree with the teaching thing, as he is willing to help me through the process, i just want to figure out a little bit more what i am getting into.
i was using brake clean as well and washing the parts after usage so that the carb cleaner wouldnt mess them up.
2.00 and 1.56 was what i was thinking due to LE and AI uses that on some of their packages.
i was also thinking of opening up the inlet anyways just to increase potential volume. i am not going to be too agressive on the intake. i just got it because it was only an extra $25 when i bought the heads. i researched that it flowed well and i wont take a ton of meat off of it.
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what else do i need as far as parts go so i can have it all ready.
i was thinking of the crane kit 10308-1 for valve springs, locks and shims. but that only allows .600 of lift at 7k RPM, which is plenty, but i dont know if since i am dropping the cash if i should go bigger. i am thinking of the crane 831 cam with 1.6RR's (or should i go with 1.7RR's) and get a little more lift out of them?
note: i still dont know where to get as far as valves. brands, etc.
i was thinking of the crane kit 10308-1 for valve springs, locks and shims. but that only allows .600 of lift at 7k RPM, which is plenty, but i dont know if since i am dropping the cash if i should go bigger. i am thinking of the crane 831 cam with 1.6RR's (or should i go with 1.7RR's) and get a little more lift out of them?
note: i still dont know where to get as far as valves. brands, etc.
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would these valves work... http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
they are manley 2.00 intake
but i cant find any 1.56 exhaust valves on summit. all they have is 1.60". or (1.50 which is stock)
what would you recommend for the seals and valve stems?
they are manley 2.00 intake
but i cant find any 1.56 exhaust valves on summit. all they have is 1.60". or (1.50 which is stock)
what would you recommend for the seals and valve stems?
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would these valves work... http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
they are manley 2.00 intake
but i cant find any 1.56 exhaust valves on summit. all they have is 1.60". or (1.50 which is stock)
what would you recommend for the seals and valve stems?
they are manley 2.00 intake
but i cant find any 1.56 exhaust valves on summit. all they have is 1.60". or (1.50 which is stock)
what would you recommend for the seals and valve stems?
LOL @ T/A KID. That would make things a hell of a lot easier for sure! Assuming his teacher has a tig and can weld like a pro :\
#10
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LS1 valves are 8mm (.313").
LS1 factory castings use a .502" guide.
LT1 valves are 11/32" (.341").
LT1 factory castings use a .557" guide
LS1 valves use a bead lock keeper vs. LT1 single square groove.
Sigh.
OP - Manley makes several varieties of valves, from budget to severe-duty.
Last edited by RamAir95TA; 03-01-2009 at 07:07 PM.
#11
LOL @ T/A KID. That would make things a hell of a lot easier for sure! Assuming his teacher has a tig and can weld like a pro :\
Here is a pic of one I just cut up, weighed around 3.5lbs
#12
Here you go again with wrong info. You CAN'T use LS1 valves on an LT1 head.
LS1 valves are 8mm (.313").
LS1 factory castings use a .502" guide.
LT1 valves are 11/32" (.341").
LT1 factory castings use a .557" guide
LS1 valves use a bead lock keeper vs. LT1 single square groove.
Sigh.
OP - Manley makes several varieties of valves, from budget to severe-duty.
LS1 valves are 8mm (.313").
LS1 factory castings use a .502" guide.
LT1 valves are 11/32" (.341").
LT1 factory castings use a .557" guide
LS1 valves use a bead lock keeper vs. LT1 single square groove.
Sigh.
OP - Manley makes several varieties of valves, from budget to severe-duty.
It can be done.
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I understand that it can be done, but for the application of the OP, he's more than likely better off picking up an off-the-shelf set. Formula350 suggested them, without any supporting information, that they can just drop right in. Mentioned nothing about "a few modifications."
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i would rather just find a set of aftermarket valves that i can drop in. does anybody have a verdict in wether or not 1.6" would fit without putting an insert in?
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I understand that it can be done, but for the application of the OP, he's more than likely better off picking up an off-the-shelf set. Formula350 suggested them, without any supporting information, that they can just drop right in. Mentioned nothing about "a few modifications."
I believe what has to be done is you put in the correct sized valve guides and run the LS retainer and keepers. But hey, what do I know right? So I'll let Cap or T/A correct me, since you're unable to make up your mind on if you can or can't do this
You need bigger valve seats.
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exactly what i was looking for. thanks Formula350.
now as far as the LS1 valves, what size are they?
but to run the LS1 retainer and keepers i would have to basically run two different valve guides and not be able to get a kit with springs locks and retainers? so i would have to get another valve spring package or only use half
now as far as the LS1 valves, what size are they?
but to run the LS1 retainer and keepers i would have to basically run two different valve guides and not be able to get a kit with springs locks and retainers? so i would have to get another valve spring package or only use half
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good news... i found the right sized LT1 valves. i called summit and asked if they had any and they gave me manley's phone number and i taked to manley and they gave me the PN's
2.000" intake PN# 11500
1.560" exhaust PN# 11501
summit will dropship them for me.
2.000" intake PN# 11500
1.560" exhaust PN# 11501
summit will dropship them for me.