LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

cam question...

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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 05:10 PM
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My car at the moment is stroked to a 396. I'm wondering what would give me good low end with a nasty lope to it, as well as not sacrificing to much mid-high end. I was recommended 290/307, lift .510/.540 at 112. didnt know if that is pretty good for a stroked motor or not.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 05:13 PM
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oh, and plan to add forced induction some time in the future...didn't know if that throws another curve ball into the mix
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 05:18 PM
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Is your sig correct? A 396 with stock heads? You are going to want to match your heads to your cam and I'd get those heads done...At the very least I'd get your stockers ported and bigger 2.00/1.56 valves added...For cam choice I always go smaller in duration with bigger lifts...These motors respond very well to those types of cams...Also depends on the goals for the car...I'm going to say that the lift on the cam suggested is too small...For a properly built 396 that sees street/strip duty I'd look at a cam in the 230 range at .050 with .570" lift on an lsa to be determined by spray or n/a applications...

I run a 383 with Lingenfelter/E.B. Porting stockers with 2.00/1.56 valves and a 226/234 .568" cam and I drive it everywhere and trap over 121 mph...Its all about the combo...

--Alan
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ABA383
Is your sig correct? A 396 with stock heads? You are going to want to match your heads to your cam and I'd get those heads done...At the very least I'd get your stockers ported and bigger 2.00/1.56 valves added...For cam choice I always go smaller in duration with bigger lifts...These motors respond very well to those types of cams...Also depends on the goals for the car...I'm going to say that the lift on the cam suggested is too small...For a properly built 396 that sees street/strip duty I'd look at a cam in the 230 range at .050 with .570" lift on an lsa to be determined by spray or n/a applications...

I run a 383 with Lingenfelter/E.B. Porting stockers with 2.00/1.56 valves and a 226/234 .568" cam and I drive it everywhere and trap over 121 mph...Its all about the combo...

--Alan
+1. That's what I was thinking.

396 + stock heads + shorites = HUGE amounts of power left on the table...

I'd get a custom grind cam...after you pick up some heads.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 05:53 PM
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Im planning on some AFR Eliminators with 210cc int, 80cc exh, and 65cc chambers within the next month, along with the cam....just wasnt sure about the cam specs. I'de like to make 10's in the 1/4 mile....eventually will get long tubes with nascar style boomtube exhaust before the rear tires.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 96_hotWS6
Im planning on some AFR Eliminators with 210cc int, 80cc exh, and 65cc chambers within the next month, along with the cam....just wasnt sure about the cam specs. I'de like to make 10's in the 1/4 mile....eventually will get long tubes with nascar style boomtube exhaust before the rear tires.
Might as well do the headers at the same time as the heads. Don't want to do extra work. I still vote for a custom cam. You at the very least would want to run an off the shelf blower cam. in the 230's duration like mentioned earlier.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 06:41 PM
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It sounds to me like you've got some decision to make. Here's my suggestion -

Pick up a set of long tube headers and a full exhaust setup - add a cutout. "Nascar style boomtube exhaust" before the rear tires is going to require some creativity and customization, which will require more unnecessary $$$ that is going be better used somewhere else.

Bolting on stock untouched AFR heads is not a wise decision, as it's the potential of said heads that makes them so desirable. You will want to have them ported. Granted, you COULD run them untouched, but for the price of stock castings, you can have a fully ported set of stock castings that will perform better than untouched AFRs. Think about it.

If you know for a fact that you're going to be running FI at some point, go with a custom blower grind. You'll see the popular trend these days that custom cams are a hot topic, and for such a setup that you're looking for, should be your choice without question.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 08:42 PM
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hmmm, many good points to think about. stock ported heads with bigger valves...how much would something like that cost? I live in a small town with not a lot of machine shops around, so I would have to find a good shop that is reputable. I am starting to lean towards the custom grind cam, don't know how to go about that either though :/
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 96_hotWS6
hmmm, many good points to think about. stock ported heads with bigger valves...how much would something like that cost? I live in a small town with not a lot of machine shops around, so I would have to find a good shop that is reputable. I am starting to lean towards the custom grind cam, don't know how to go about that either though :/
Call up these guys for your ported heads and custom cam:

http://www.advancedinduction.com/
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 08:46 PM
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AI will take care of everything for you.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 09:07 PM
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sweetness! ill keep you guys posted
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 09:16 PM
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or check out LE @ www.elliotportworks.com for another good option on custom grinds
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 09:14 PM
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well, after researching both of those sites, I have decided to go with AI's 200cc comp heads along with a custom grind cam that is free with the package =D. Along with that im going to get the port matched intake manifold they offer as well. Now the question I have is what longtubes to go with? Any suggestions on longtubes? Also, what stall should I go with, thinkin 2500...but not sure, cam specs will be aong the lines of what Alan had suggested above. Will have to get a 12 bolt or Ford 9" with the power ill be putting down, any suggestion on that also?
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 96_hotWS6
well, after researching both of those sites, I have decided to go with AI's 200cc comp heads along with a custom grind cam that is free with the package =D. Along with that im going to get the port matched intake manifold they offer as well. Now the question I have is what longtubes to go with? Any suggestions on longtubes? Also, what stall should I go with, thinkin 2500...but not sure, cam specs will be aong the lines of what Alan had suggested above. Will have to get a 12 bolt or Ford 9" with the power ill be putting down, any suggestion on that also?
For your setup, LPPs would be ideal with the stepped primaries, but even Pacesetters or Jet Hots would work as well.

A 2500 stall is hardly better than stock. For such a stout combo, consider at the very LEAST a 3500. If I were you, I'd go with a 3800 - 4000 easy, depending on what camshaft Ron/Phil hook you up with.

You can't go wrong with either the 12 bolt, 9", or S60. The three have their advantages and disadvantages, but all have one thing in common - the ability to withstand most abuse you can throw at them. I went with a 9".
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 09:26 PM
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hey joe, what are the specs on the cam ur running, she sounds pretty wicked...
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 96_hotWS6
hey joe, what are the specs on the cam ur running, she sounds pretty wicked...
Cam is the XE 236/242, .555"/.576" on a 112 LS. I've since gone to a new setup with similar specs (AI 200cc's).
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 96_hotWS6
well, after researching both of those sites, I have decided to go with AI's 200cc comp heads along with a custom grind cam that is free with the package =D. Along with that im going to get the port matched intake manifold they offer as well. Now the question I have is what longtubes to go with? Any suggestions on longtubes? Also, what stall should I go with, thinkin 2500...but not sure, cam specs will be aong the lines of what Alan had suggested above. Will have to get a 12 bolt or Ford 9" with the power ill be putting down, any suggestion on that also?
If the cam that Ai spec'd is similar to mine you'll love it...To maximize your combo I'd go with a Vig 3600 or 4000. Typically for a street/strip combo you want the converter to stall 500-900 rpm below the torque peak. However, Vig recommends no more than 4000 stall speed for an LT1 that sees lots of street duty...and 3.73 gears with a 26" tire or 4.10s with a 28" tire (both recommendations are if you stay n/a)...

I ran a Vig 3600 for years and ran the times in my sig with that converter...I have since stepped up to a Vig 4000 to further maximize my combo and havent had a chance to go racing yet...Don't let the higher stall numbers scare you...Vigilante converters are very efficient and act like stockers until you nail the throttle...I'm very picky about drivability and wouldn't tolerate one of the those old style really loose feeling converters...If you drove my car now you'd never guess that I'm running a 4000 converter! Now if you're going with the 396 your torque curve may move lower down the rpm scale and let you use the 3600 in lieu of the 4000. For Headers I like and use the Kooks stepped 1 3/4-1 7/8 stainless...I have not used the LPPs but hear good things, too...As much of a pain as it is to do headers this is the time to do them once and right...

Since you're an A4 a 12 bolt would work nice for you....I have a Strange 12 bolt and it was a true bolt in...The S60 was not out yet or I may have considered it...It weighs a bit more, but supposedly takes less power to turn the gears than either the 12 bolt or the 9"...

Sounds like you're gonna have a fun ride when its done!!

--Alan
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 04:47 PM
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how hard is it to change them plugs, always a reasonable question when talking about lt1 with headers lol...
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 05:01 PM
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Changing plugs in these things is never a joy, but with my Kooks they are not too bad...I make matters worse by still having all the AIR tube stuff hooked up...I had LPE shorties before and they were a complete nightmare to change plugs with...

--Alan
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