GIVE EM' THE BIRD

iTrader: (1)

Not really, but if I dont get this problem figured out, I might just give it away Anyways, I've been stuck in the same spot since December. Teh car is a 94 lt1 formula. I recently rebuilt the motor, slapped her all back together and it will not start. I cannot get the car to do anything when i turn the key. ALll of the lights/accessories work fine, and you can hear the relays click when i go to start it, but the starter does nothing.

It is a brand new starter and It works fine. I bypassed the ignition by taking a wire to the ignition wire and the negative battery terminal, which made the car crank just fine. No problem at all, it turned over effortlessly, which obviously rules out the battery, and the starter grounds etc... It is losing power in the ignition SOMEWHERE between the ignition switch, and the starter. We checked for continuity from the ignition wire under dash and litterally have it from the starter all the way to under the dash I have access to Alldata and have been looking at all of the wiring diagrams. When the ignition is in the start position, power goes thru the clutch switch, and through the theft deturrent switch. After that, its pretty much home free to the starter, so... I checked the clutch switch and its fine. Im thinkgin about ripping the dash out to find that damn theft relay/module but dont want to lol! This car is really getting the best of me. Ive never been so angry/stumped with a car in my whole life. I used to be a Toyota tech. and working there was a cakewalk compared to finding this starting issue

Here is a link to the fs thread in the classifieds if anyone might be able to grab some info from there to possibly give me a little insight. Sorry for the long read,
Thanks all

Derek

https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...ormula-fs.html

adamj1982

My money is on the theft deterrent switch, since it sounds like it got kicked on due to the rebuild. Surely there is someway just to wire up the ignition so to just by pass it?

GIVE EM' THE BIRD

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the extra confidence! Im hoping that is what it is b/c that is literally all thats left (in the wiring diagram anyway).

I was thinking about bypassing it but i am planning on selling the car and want it to be right.

Derek

dafhturbo

iTrader: (3)

There are two small terminals on my starter that the thin wire from the switch connects to. when I put my car back together I put it on the one farthest from the engine. starter would not work. Switched to the one closest to the engine and starter worked.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

hehe i had the SAME problem.. VATS.. Plug in the plugs that go through the passenger side firewall. They are part of the engine harness. Those are for VATS and one is for a/c i think. Are they plugged in?

GIVE EM' THE BIRD

iTrader: (1)

I imagine they are lol!! I never unplugged any of that but i will definately look. Thanks for the input.

Derek

great421

iTrader: (1)

Behind and to the right of the glove box is the anti theft relay - this one gave my car problems (on and off) for about a year - the 0.35 wire (the other 3 wires are 5 mm - a lot larger) was loose in the 4 pin connector which pluged into the relay. If this little wire does not make consistant contact when attempting to crank / start the engine, the relay will NOT trip and the current will not go to the starter.

For my car, the solution was to ensure that 'loose' pin was tight; don't laugh, but I used a small portion of a paper clip forced into the back of the connector, securing this pin in its place. I've had zero 'no-crank' episodes since that time.

I hope this resolves your problem!

GIVE EM' THE BIRD

iTrader: (1)

Thank you very much for that tip. I was about ready to tear my dash out to try and find it! So youre saying you CAN get to it w/out tearing out the dash


BTW, guys i forgot to mention... When i bypassed it and let it crank, teh fuel pump did NOT kick on. Woulld that have anything to do with this POS theft switch? If that is the solver for both problems, i will be settin pretty cuz the car is ready to start lol!

Thanks again.
Derek

2nd3rd4thgen

if its the vats it can disable the ignition and the injectors or the fuel pump one i cant remember wich one. and . but i think you can get it tuned out to where it doesnt disable the the injectors/fuel pump. correct me if im wrong.

officermartinez

iTrader: (1)

I also had a similiar issue.. Like you, I ripped out my 4L60E and LT1 for a complete overhaul / rebuild. I ripped out my rear end and removed my gas tank. I installed a Racetronix fuel pump in my gas tank and put it all back together. I gutted my interior and laid down some sound deadener.. A couple of months ago, I got the new trans and new engine back in and guess what?????

ABSOLUTELY NOTHING!

I checked, re-checked, triple checked my connections. I must have cried myself to sleep that night.. LOL! It took about 3-4 days to realize that on my drivers side (near my front drivers seat), there was a simple itty bitty ground wire that I had unbolted from the floorboard when I took my interior out. I touched the wire to a bare piece of metal (drivers side seat mount) and VIOLA!!!! She cranked right up! I believe the unconnected ground wire was preventing the fuel pump from kicking on..

However, I'm not out of the woods yet... I can't get my car to idle correctly. It idles at 400 rpm (just to the point that the car is about to die from being too low of an idle). But, that's just something else to troubleshoot. Hope one of our suggestions will help you.