Why is my timing -30?
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Ok, car running like crap, just hooked up a scanner... IGN adv at idle was -26.. when revved to 2k it hit -35 degrees retard... is that normal? what the hell would cause this? Is there anyway you can mess the timing on the optispark when installing?
Other readings...
Maf .89
Map 8.3
IAT 66
Other readings...
Maf .89
Map 8.3
IAT 66
Last edited by JasonShort; 03-27-2009 at 07:24 PM. Reason: removal of profanity
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Ok, car running like crap, just hooked up a scanner... IGN adv at idle was -26.. when revved to 2k it hit -35 degrees retard... is that normal? what the hell would cause this? Is there anyway you can mess the timing on the optispark when installing?
Other readings...
Maf .89
Map 8.3
IAT 66
Other readings...
Maf .89
Map 8.3
IAT 66
Last edited by JasonShort; 03-27-2009 at 07:25 PM.
#4
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I think you are getting ahead of yourself. You don't even know if the timing is off spec.
A cam ground too far retarded or advanced, happens, but is rare.
Many many things can make your car run like ****: o2's, wires, plugs, injectors, TPS, IAC, opti, MAF, coil, knock sensor, vacuum leak, etc.
A cam ground too far retarded or advanced, happens, but is rare.
Many many things can make your car run like ****: o2's, wires, plugs, injectors, TPS, IAC, opti, MAF, coil, knock sensor, vacuum leak, etc.
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plugs are new, o2 sensors read in spec, TPS is in spec, IAC is in spec, MAF is in spec, MAP is in spec, probably not injectors.. plug wires seem to check out, maybe run on ohm test on them... not sure on vacuum leak.. looks good.. will check tho
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hi.. im calmed down now, heh just frustrated. We scanned it with a Actron Elite Pro.. Engine is NOT throwing any codes...
Passenger side o2 was about 21.1
drivers side was 18.9
at idle
i did cleaned the maf... and unplugged it to see if anything changed, and it ran the same.
I have yet to check fuel pressure..will do that tommorrow..
we had it running at night and saw no signs of arching.. MSD Wires, NGK TR55 plugs..
im suspecting fuel problem perhaps?
Passenger side o2 was about 21.1
drivers side was 18.9
at idle
i did cleaned the maf... and unplugged it to see if anything changed, and it ran the same.
I have yet to check fuel pressure..will do that tommorrow..
we had it running at night and saw no signs of arching.. MSD Wires, NGK TR55 plugs..
im suspecting fuel problem perhaps?
Last edited by 96blackz28; 03-27-2009 at 08:04 PM.
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hi.. im calmed down now, heh just frustrated. We scanned it with a Actron Elite Pro.. Engine is NOT throwing any codes...
Passenger side o2 was about 21.1
drivers side was 18.9
at idle
i did cleaned the maf... and unplugged it to see if anything changed, and it ran the same.
I have yet to check fuel pressure..will do that tommorrow..
we had it running at night and saw no signs of arching.. MSD Wires, NGK TR55 plugs..
im suspecting fuel problem perhaps?
Passenger side o2 was about 21.1
drivers side was 18.9
at idle
i did cleaned the maf... and unplugged it to see if anything changed, and it ran the same.
I have yet to check fuel pressure..will do that tommorrow..
we had it running at night and saw no signs of arching.. MSD Wires, NGK TR55 plugs..
im suspecting fuel problem perhaps?
Post your fuel pressure readings, idle and WOT under load.
You can also disconnect the o2's and see if anything changes.
You can test both the coil and ICM.
#12
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Timing on some scanners is expressed with a negative (-) number. That is advance (-30 [or whatever] BTDC. It's not retard when the number goes higher - it's more advance. Everything is perfectly good. No problem, there.
You are never going to see + numbers for advance. The engine would not even run.
The short answer to why it is -30 is- because it is supposed to be.
You are never going to see + numbers for advance. The engine would not even run.
The short answer to why it is -30 is- because it is supposed to be.
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Last edited by shbox; 03-27-2009 at 10:01 PM.
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thanks shbox for your input on the timing. Im really stumped on this, like i said, i have new Opti, MSD blaster coil, plugs, and MSD wires... I have triple checked wire routing, and that the wires are plugged in all the way, there is no arcing, and this "STUMBLE" happens on both driver and passanger sides, you can tell by being under the car and feeling the exhaust coming out, it puffs on both sides.
Like i said, im going to run a fuel pressure test as well once drain the gas tank and i get fresh gas in and a new fuel filter.
But my buddy was asking me if its anyway possible to install the opti wrong, or while installing it throwing the timing off somehow?
Like i said, im going to run a fuel pressure test as well once drain the gas tank and i get fresh gas in and a new fuel filter.
But my buddy was asking me if its anyway possible to install the opti wrong, or while installing it throwing the timing off somehow?
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From my understanding, if the car runs the same with the MAF unplugged, then usually it's a good sign that it's bad. Know anyone with a 94-97 LT1 you could borrow their MAF from? Keep in mind, if it's an electrical problem (doubt it, but possible) then it could take theirs out too. Just a word of caution
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thanks shbox for your input on the timing. Im really stumped on this, like i said, i have new Opti, MSD blaster coil, plugs, and MSD wires... I have triple checked wire routing, and that the wires are plugged in all the way, there is no arcing, and this "STUMBLE" happens on both driver and passanger sides, you can tell by being under the car and feeling the exhaust coming out, it puffs on both sides.
Like i said, im going to run a fuel pressure test as well once drain the gas tank and i get fresh gas in and a new fuel filter.
But my buddy was asking me if its anyway possible to install the opti wrong, or while installing it throwing the timing off somehow?
Like i said, im going to run a fuel pressure test as well once drain the gas tank and i get fresh gas in and a new fuel filter.
But my buddy was asking me if its anyway possible to install the opti wrong, or while installing it throwing the timing off somehow?
#17
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i am running ~40-42 degrees of advance with the computer only pulling (retarding) like 1-2 degrees off around the higher RPM band.
but i have used tunercats and autotap and have spent many hours tuning the spark, fuel, air and VE tables.
but i have used tunercats and autotap and have spent many hours tuning the spark, fuel, air and VE tables.
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Sometimes people don't get it in the right slot. This may not even be your problem, though. Most of the time it won't even start.
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Im thinking it might be ICM/COIL or fuel related.. I have yet to check any of those.. gonna look at it again tommorrow