matts3fifty

hey guys im new here and kinda new to the lt1's too.
i have a 93 s10 im putting my lt1 i got from a roadmaster in. i pulled it completely apart bought a new oil pan,pump,cam,timing set, carb,manifold,rollers.pushrods,v springs, etc . im got to be ordering a crank kit just a stock replacement with bearings. im going to run a wire hone thru the block but i dont no which size ring to order??. with a 140k on it i can still see the factory cross hatching dont no if that makes a difference.
appreciate any help.
thanks
matt

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

With a 140K on the clock and the engine fully apart, you need to get the block bored, honed, and align honed. You can't just put new bearings and rings in, even if you wire hone it with some little tool. Either buy a low mile, good condition short block or get that block you have to a machine shop and get it done right.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

x2 agreed!

SLawson86

iTrader: (8)

somewhat agree...

with 140k on the clock, you could probably get by with a hone/rings, and check the main saddles. either way, take it to a machine shop. i believe you will be suprised to look down into the bores and see the little wear on the cylinders

edit... you do have it apart. well either way, i would REUSE the factory crankshaft!

My95Z

iTrader: (8)

140k on the block if it was taken care of properly means hardley any wear. On my block the bores only wore .002" and were all straight (140k too). You can get by with a std size ring kit, or go with the .005" over size and you might have to file fit them to get the right gaps. You need to get an accurate reading on the bore wear first, then worry about which size rings to order.

Why would you replace the crank if its fine, just get it polished, then you won't have to worry about getting it balanced.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

You still need to have the rotating assembly balanced.

My95Z

iTrader: (8)

Not if he's reusing the crank/rods/pistons.

matts3fifty

im going to reuse the rods and pistons but im gunna do a new crank. or if i do it all what do u guys think of this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-S...4506.m20.l1116

My95Z

iTrader: (8)

Is something wrong with the stock crank? You know its about as strong as any other cast crank out there and if you are reusing rods/crank/pistons you will save a few hundred $$$ b/c it won't need to be balanced.

As for the kit, I'm not a big fan of the prebalanced stuff, seen too many bad things happen b/c they weren't balanced properly. If you're buying all that look into a 383 kit too, not that much more expensive.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

That crank is a step backwards.
The rods no better than stock. They are heavier than stock and rated to no higher hp than stock.
Those pistons are no upgrade either and honestly the thick ringpacks they will come with will probably make them a step backwards too.
Most of the inexpensive aftermarket oilpumps are a step backwards from stock.
Unlikely any need to replace the lifters as the stock work just fine even with cams MUCH more aggressive than stock.
What springs did you get? Not a lot of options for the iron heads due to a huge inner guide, the stock springs suck for even a stock cam so hope it wasn't those.

Looks to me like you are building something a big step backwards from where you started.

Then after all that you are going to throw a carb on it. Without the injection the LT1 is just a gen 1 motor with drastically reduced head and intake selection. If you are going to carb it you should have started with a gen 1 motor, would have been cheaper with more options available too you.

The stock LT1 rings are a thin metric moderately low tension design which is why there is very minimal bore wear you noticed. This is also why the cheap SpeedPro pistons you want to go with are a step backwards. I tried looking around a bit and even qwithout an exact part number it looks like those pistons are heavier too.

Oh and the stock LT1 pistons are hypereutectic too.

Speed Pro does offer a metric ring hypereutectic piston but at the price of that kit that is not what you are getting.

Oh and as far as being prebalanced, a good balance job starts at about $160 and goes up from there depending on the effort and any mallory that needs to be put into it. With the price of that kit absolutely everything is cheap as cheap can get and the balance job is highly unlikely to be any good.

matts3fifty

and with that said i guess i just keep the stock stuff.
was my crank internally or externally balanced ??

My95Z

iTrader: (8)

Neutrally balanced at the front and externally balanced at the rear. It has a weight on the flywheel/flexplate.

matts3fifty

but i bolting it up to a nv3500 trans will i need a special flywheel for balance reasons?

My95Z

iTrader: (8)

Do you still have the factory flywheel? Will it bolt to the nv trans?

Not sure about this, maybe someone else will help you out if the trans doesn't bolt up to the LT1 flywheel.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

The balanced flexplate has nothing to do with the trans, it's to balance the rotating assembly. You need to find out if your stock flexplate will work with the trans, otherwise you have to get a compatible flexplate and have it balanced in the same way as your stock one.

matts3fifty

im sorry im way off the subject guys but if i do a stock crank what flywheel will i need to bolt my 5 speed up? i just afraid of getting this back together not balanced rite and blowing the motor. i never knew the flywheel helped with balancing

My95Z

iTrader: (8)

Its your thread, you take it where you want it, but you may have better luck with a new thread maybe in the tranny seciton to get better responses.

Yeah, the LT1 is one of the few motors to be balanced this way and its normally not a big deal if you run an auto. Hope someone knows the answer to your question.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Is the 5 speed out of a Camaro?

matts3fifty

it came out of an s10 but with junkyard numbers i knew it was replaced and then i found out they came in the full size pickups with 4.3,5.0 and 5.7's