Rear end is taking a dump!
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Rear end is taking a dump! Well fellas, my 10 bolt is getting ready to bite the dust. It starting to make a realy bad backlash whine. It has 3.73's in it currently, but i have found a replacement 10 bolt with 3.42's for 200 bucks? What do yo guys think. I dont have the money to buy a 12 bolt right now and this car is also my DD. So do you think it might be a lil better with the 3.42's? let me know
Thanks!
Thanks!
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From: St Petersburg Florida
well, have my 3.73's and my car being a DD it isnt the best on gas. I mean i know i drive a V8 car, and gas mileage isnt really a concern. But how much of a S.O.T.P. loss will i feel from 3.73's to 3.42's?
You won't notice much of a loss. As far as gas goes, you won't notice your gas lasting any longer. If you did a ton of hwy/frwy miles the 3.42's would be the overall better gear. For around town 3.73 imo are the best.
Well fellas, my 10 bolt is getting ready to bite the dust. It starting to make a realy bad backlash whine. It has 3.73's in it currently, but i have found a replacement 10 bolt with 3.42's for 200 bucks? What do yo guys think. I dont have the money to buy a 12 bolt right now and this car is also my DD. So do you think it might be a lil better with the 3.42's? let me know
Thanks!
Thanks!
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If 3.42s are good in the V6 cars, they sure as hell aren't bad in an LT1-based car. I ran them for awhile and had no complaints. But it's still no substitute for 3.73s.
As mentioned, $200 is a steal for an entire 3.42 rear axle. I ended up paying $350 for mine.
As mentioned, $200 is a steal for an entire 3.42 rear axle. I ended up paying $350 for mine.
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im glad someone said something about the title...LOL! Im going to fun the 3.42's for a while i think. The 3.73's in the the car now arw whineing really bad, so i doubt their going to be reusable.
Where the gears quiet after instal up untill now? It may not be the gears themselvs causing the noise, but something like a worn bearing which would be much cheaper/ easier/ faster to replace than a whole rear end + down time of having the PCM sent off.
Get the rear end off the ground, remove the driveshaft and check for play in the yolk.
Check the oil level. Check to see if the axle tubes are leaking. Check the pinion nut, put a wrench on it and try to tighten it.
Get the rear end off the ground, remove the driveshaft and check for play in the yolk.
Check the oil level. Check to see if the axle tubes are leaking. Check the pinion nut, put a wrench on it and try to tighten it.
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Yea I think spending a couple more on something like fresh bearings, seals and even upgraded axle shafts is a much better idea. I think you can get MOSER's stronger shafts for something like $125 for both. You then pretty much are looking at either the gears being shot, the posi(carrier) being shot or bearings. Which a carrier can be had easily, gears even EASIER from the loads who've upgraded (like you) and bearings can be bought for much cheaper than the whole rear end. That and you wouldn't have to remove the thing and install another PLUS you'd have the peace of mind that you're running fresh bearings and not ones with unknown use 
I would still buy that other rearend, you never know when you might need it, plus the price is good, like said, check over the rear thats in the car for low fluid, or a worn pinion bearing, but down the road, save for a good rearend build like one of these, problem solved!!
Yea I think spending a couple more on something like fresh bearings, seals and even upgraded axle shafts is a much better idea. I think you can get MOSER's stronger shafts for something like $125 for both. You then pretty much are looking at either the gears being shot, the posi(carrier) being shot or bearings. Which a carrier can be had easily, gears even EASIER from the loads who've upgraded (like you) and bearings can be bought for much cheaper than the whole rear end. That and you wouldn't have to remove the thing and install another PLUS you'd have the peace of mind that you're running fresh bearings and not ones with unknown use
Additionally, spending another $125 on Moser axle shafts for a 10-bolt to replace the equally strong 10-bolt axle shafts is just wasting $125. The stock axles are very strong when used behind a mid-HP LT1. Higher HP cars have more to worry about than just the axles, but in the OPs situation, stock is more than sufficient.
OP, for $200, it's a damn good deal. Go for it.
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I don't know about you, but I would NEVER EVER buy a used gearset. Once a pattern is developed in one ring and pinion, it is next to impossible to set up the same pattern in another rear end, and all you'll get is more gear whine. The cost incurred for bearings, seals, etc., is nothing compared to the cost of a new gear-set and, more importantly, the labor involved in having it set up correctly. Parts and labor included, expect to pay $500 to $600 when finished.
Additionally, spending another $125 on Moser axle shafts for a 10-bolt to replace the equally strong 10-bolt axle shafts is just wasting $125. The stock axles are very strong when used behind a mid-HP LT1. Higher HP cars have more to worry about than just the axles, but in the OPs situation, stock is more than sufficient.
OP, for $200, it's a damn good deal. Go for it.
Additionally, spending another $125 on Moser axle shafts for a 10-bolt to replace the equally strong 10-bolt axle shafts is just wasting $125. The stock axles are very strong when used behind a mid-HP LT1. Higher HP cars have more to worry about than just the axles, but in the OPs situation, stock is more than sufficient.
OP, for $200, it's a damn good deal. Go for it.
If his axles are fine, and I suppose since its most likely not axle related, there's no reason to get them. I was just making a point that he could get upgraded axles and new bearings for just about the cost of that used rear.
Who is going to disassemble and reassemble the entire set, including backlash and pinion depth? Pinion bearings and carrier bearings aren't exactly cheap either, along with the cost of fluids, etc.
Perhaps you know of someone who would do these things for free. Most of us pay a couple hundred bucks for such a service.
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
What makes them upgraded if the stock axles are fine?
Who is going to disassemble and reassemble the entire set, including backlash and pinion depth? Pinion bearings and carrier bearings aren't exactly cheap either, along with the cost of fluids, etc.
Perhaps you know of someone who would do these things for free. Most of us pay a couple hundred bucks for such a service.
Who is going to disassemble and reassemble the entire set, including backlash and pinion depth? Pinion bearings and carrier bearings aren't exactly cheap either, along with the cost of fluids, etc.
Perhaps you know of someone who would do these things for free. Most of us pay a couple hundred bucks for such a service.
An upgrade would be the improved strength. If it's only slightly stronger, sorry to tell you, it's still considered to be an "upgrade". If I have to define the term for you... "to improve the quality, value, effectiveness, or performance of something".
I admit, I don't see our 7.5" 10bolt listed, but this is exactly the cost I figured it'd be. So $125 + $75 and figure $25-45 for shipping, makes it $25-45 over the used rear. And you're more than welcome to use the rear end with the fluid that came in it, but I sure as hell wouldn't, so the cost of fluid is moot. And with all the info available to people (unless you require a special tool), I don't see why one would need to have someone do the installing for you.
I know you like to nit pick, but sheesh.