ok..bore questions
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On The Tree
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From: OK
ok..bore questions i have my motor out and it is going to the machine shop sometime next week...so im asking what size is best for a street/strip car, im asking so i can find the best pistons ect...
thank you
thank you
i was going to go .030 but i decided to stick to the stock bore. my bores are in real good shape so im just going to get my honed out for the pistons. i went with speed pro power forged pistons part # TRW-L2256F. i hope there good lol i dont plan on running nitrous but i like the fact that i can with a good forged piston
i was going to go .030 but i decided to stick to the stock bore. my bores are in real good shape so im just going to get my honed out for the pistons. i went with speed pro power forged pistons part # TRW-L2256F. i hope there good lol i dont plan on running nitrous but i like the fact that i can with a good forged piston
While you may be able to get away with just passing a hone through the cylinders, it's best that you let a competent machine shop make the boring decision for you.
I wouldn't trust the stock bore with new pistons and rings without consulting a machine-shop. They might look fine, but then again most LT1 cylinder walls retain their cross-hatch for hundreds of thousands of miles and always look good. Cylinder walls wear more at the bottom, and over time the cylinder bore can become egg-shaped, making it very difficult for new pistons/rings to seal correctly.
While you may be able to get away with just passing a hone through the cylinders, it's best that you let a competent machine shop make the boring decision for you.
While you may be able to get away with just passing a hone through the cylinders, it's best that you let a competent machine shop make the boring decision for you.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
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From: OK
well i was debating spray but i dont thin i want another nitrous car honestly..and budget is good, im a firefighter dont really have alot of money lol
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If the bores are good why are you replacing the pistons?? I beleive the stockers are Mahle hypereutectics.
Many folks go with the .030 overbore to unshroud the valves a little more which helps the engine breathe a little better.
Mahle makes a great forged piston too check out the Mahle power packs.
If you go to a 6" rod and you make the correct piston rod choices you can lighten up your rotating assembly freeing up horsepower. Downside is your machinist will have to balance your assembly .
Mike
Many folks go with the .030 overbore to unshroud the valves a little more which helps the engine breathe a little better.
Mahle makes a great forged piston too check out the Mahle power packs.
If you go to a 6" rod and you make the correct piston rod choices you can lighten up your rotating assembly freeing up horsepower. Downside is your machinist will have to balance your assembly .
Mike
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: OK
If the bores are good why are you replacing the pistons?? I beleive the stockers are Mahle hypereutectics.
Many folks go with the .030 overbore to unshroud the valves a little more which helps the engine breathe a little better.
Mahle makes a great forged piston too check out the Mahle power packs.
If you go to a 6" rod and you make the correct piston rod choices you can lighten up your rotating assembly freeing up horsepower. Downside is your machinist will have to balance your assembly .
Mike
Many folks go with the .030 overbore to unshroud the valves a little more which helps the engine breathe a little better.
Mahle makes a great forged piston too check out the Mahle power packs.
If you go to a 6" rod and you make the correct piston rod choices you can lighten up your rotating assembly freeing up horsepower. Downside is your machinist will have to balance your assembly .
Mike
thank you mike, the reason im going .030 over is because the block has 190,xxx miles i just want to know that everything is good to go so to speak, and i am looking for some good street power..not a good reason but hey
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I wouldn't trust the stock bore with new pistons and rings without consulting a machine-shop. They might look fine, but then again most LT1 cylinder walls retain their cross-hatch for hundreds of thousands of miles and always look good. Cylinder walls wear more at the bottom, and over time the cylinder bore can become egg-shaped, making it very difficult for new pistons/rings to seal correctly.
While you may be able to get away with just passing a hone through the cylinders, it's best that you let a competent machine shop make the boring decision for you.
While you may be able to get away with just passing a hone through the cylinders, it's best that you let a competent machine shop make the boring decision for you.
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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From: OK
formula350, thank you for the advice , im taking it, i just want to know my walls are in good condition ya know, this is the only time i am going to actually have the motor apart for awhile (i hope). i figure might as well do it all and do it right
