im trying to restore my previously abused 95 trans am (retard i bought it from). the motor is going to be rebuilt hoping to stay with the std bore. if not ill take it to a 355. i need recomendations on how to get 400-450 hp N/A with a t56 transmission. im on a tight budget of around 3500 to rebuild the motor. and put a 9-bolt rearend in. btw if i dont make much sense for right now its because im on a lot of pain meds(had surgery yesterday)

 

355 rebuild + top end to get 400-450 rwhp + 9" > 3500.

Your goal is VERY unrealistic. Look to spend ~2,500 on a decent top end, ~2000 for a quality 355 build, and 2000+ for a 9". You also have to factor in the cost of a tune, injectors, and full bolt-ons if you don't have them alreadly. You also will need a new clutch as your stocker won't stand a chance. Those are number that I pulled out of no where, but you can see that you will not get it done with your budget.

 

its the pain meds... gotta be lol im sure he meant a few thousand more

 

ok if thats unrealistic. i have axcess to a 9 BOLT its an aussie rearend in a 3rd gen camaro. and plenty of 9 inchers laying around at a friends house. anyways.... my whole goal is NOT to dyno race this car its to put it on the track. what i want is high tens low 11's give me a list of what i need to do to get it there.

 

more vicoden.......

 

http://www.advancedinduction.com/


Bottom End
Ai Budget 355cid LT1 Rotating Assembly Package:

# Utilizes Stock 3.48" Stroke Crankshaft (Not Included!)
# Compstar Forged 4340 H-Beam Rods
# Mahle Forged Pistons (-5cc or -16cc)
# Mahle Plasma-Moly 1.5/1.5/3mm Ring Package
# Mahle Steel Pins & Wire Locks

$1195* - Your local machinist will need to add their preferred bearings & balance your crankshaft to the new reciprocating assy.

Top End
100% CNC'd 190cc Street/Strip LT1 Cylinder Head Package:
The classic 190cc CNC'd head is back! This is our original 190cc CNC'd intake port paired with the updated chamber and exhaust ports from our 200cc Competition CNC LT1 head. With our extremely efficient ports this is enough head to propel a well setup daily driver into the 11's on a budget! Easily equal to or better than any competing "Stage II" or "Fully Ported" LT1 head (most of which are 20-30cc larger at the same or less flow rate!), this offering represents great value & performance. Whether it's a hot strip only car, or powerful daily sleeper, the Street/Strip LT1 head will deliver. With the intake port finished at the industry standard .050" stepover vs. our usual .030" stepover we are able to offer this package at an phenomenal value. Paired with our classic mild 230deg HR's these heads have garnered innumerable 400rwhp+ stock shortblock and 430+rwhp/430+rwtq 383 results over the past 5 years. With the updated ports, quality components, and proven duplicable performance this is easily the best value available in the LT market.

# 100% CNC Ported Intake & Exhaust runners
# 100% CNC Unshrouded & Re-contoured Chambers
# 100% CNC Competition F1/Cup Quality Valvejob (TIR < .00012")
# Re-Machined Intake & Exhaust Flanges & Valve Cover Rails
# PCD milled to ensure flatness, surface finish & achieve desired chamber volume

# Genuine Pacalloy 1220 Beehive Springs
# Genuine CompCams Machined & Hardened 10deg Retainers and Locks
# Lightweight Stainless Pro-Flo Valves 2.00" Int/1.56" Exh w/ Steel Jacketed Viton Seals
# Both Pressure and Hardness tested to ensure the casting's integrity & ability to seal
# Core must be casting number 10207643 or 10128374
# Add any Comp HR Cam for $275, Ai Custom Billet for $350!



Note - Exhaust numbers are obtained without the use of a "pipe" or extension of any kind.

Recommended Usage: Stock 350cid - 383cid short-blocks with piston relief/dish volumes of 5-16cc. With supporting modifications, manual stock short-block F and Y-bodies will typically produce 390-425rwhp SAE corrected or 410-445rwhp STD corrected depending on cam and valvetrain selection.

$1395 + Core* - Complete, Assembled, & Ready to Bolt-On

 

You want high 10s for $3500? Using a rear that's equally weak as a 10-bolt?

Before you spend ANY money, you need to research exactly what it takes to get into the 10s. First and foremost, more money.

 

Hmm high 10s with a car+3500?? yea its called a gutted notchback 302

 

nitrous!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

jk i think you can do it. you just need a little more cash and a little more research. at least your asking questions, very good start

 

Hope you don't mean NA.

You need to multiply your funds quite a bit to come close to 10s NA, especially stock cubes.

OT: Can I have some of those meds you're on???

 

nom nom nom lol ^

 

oh dear. . . lmao tuesday i still had morphine in my system sorry guys. i like the heads though that will help my fiance said ok. lol bottom end ill go a different route with different parts. and a turbo 350 instead of the t56. the 3500 was the low end of just the motor build for right now. im doing this to shut a ricer at work up. has 13k into his eclipse says it does high 10s. and no way a v8 can come close to beating him with less than 10k in the motor.

 

They must have given you some good ****. You would change your mind if I told you how much I have in my 383 its kinda depressing then I go drive it and everythings better with a 355 would be lil cheaper but not much.

PS send me some codones in the mail.

 

so with the parts listed and an intake to match which cam should i use if i plan to add nitrous later?

 

400RWHP LT1 is rather easy with good short block, decent heads and cam and standard bolt ons.

450RWHP is a great deal more difficult and will require big *** heads and cam as well as the other stuff. Stroking it will help there too. Big bucks here.

 

spray and weight reduction

 

Sorry to resurrect this from the dead, but I had a question along the same line. Can you get 400 rwhp without tearing into the bottom end N/A? With all bolt ons, H/C/I, full exhaust, injectors to support, etc. can it be at least close without tearing into the bottom end?

 

Yeah a lot of people have done it and had good success, you are playing games with the stock pistons and bearings though.

 

I figured it would be pushing the bottom end, I just wanted to try and get there on top end alone for as long as possible before having my car down for a year whilst I try and rebuild the motor and get it back in the car. I can do bolt on and top end stuff in car in a weekend or so...overhauling the motor, not so much :-p

Plus, if I can get to 400 without bottom end work, I can stretch it a bit more into the 450 range hopefully when the time comes to do the rest.

 

stock pistons aren't a limiting factor at 400rwhp, but the main limiting factor in a stock LT1 factor is the rod bolts which can stretch at excess rpms which are usually nessecary with the amount of rpm needed to be spun to make those numbers