ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

That sounds almost exactly like the 383 I plan to build.

Shouldn't break the bank. The key is to find a reputable machine shop in your area that stands by their work.

I would go with a Yank SS3600-SS4000. Depends on your preference. But I'm a T56 guy, you might want to get more feedback on this.

CamaroRacing12

iTrader: (5)

x2222222 really, watch what u type.

to the orginal poster. i would do full bolt ons first and see how u like it b4 dipping into a huge engine build. u'd be surprised how much power these cars have if u harness it correctly.

jayz28

iTrader: (3)

Don't forget, when you make big power you need to upgrade your drivetrain too. Better transmission and a helluva lot better rearend. More $$$$

I finally got to run my stroker and the rear is whining after 2 good lauches!!!!

Cruzer23

iTrader: (3)

the only sarcasm was about AI's rotating assembly (because he is from AI and i think i mentioned before he posted i was looking at getting their 383 one.), other than that i am genuinely glad he helped me realize im doing ok with what i have chosen so far.

i got AI to get me a complete top end kit, they gave me heads, cam, gasket and head bolt kit, hydraulic roller kit, fuel injector set, TB, intake porting. i have confidence they know what works best together, it should be pretty dominant imho.

also i said that i will have 25k invested in the car by the time im done.

i have rear end, full suspension, trans, etc. all of the goodies planned out.

also on the converter, i was told a 3200-3600 is best for driving somewhat often on the street. the guy that had an engine a little less powerful than this had a 3000 and made 415 rwhp. i figured 3000 with a stronger engine get me around 425. but a 3200-3600 would be better for going faster hehe.

i have a guy offering a yank3600 for $450 im supposed to let him know tomorrow, only problem is i dont want to get it if its too much, maybe i only need like a 3200. brand new the 3600 is 725$ so im saving some if i can use it.

the only problem i have with this setup is its going to be at most $7500 for the parts that includes tax and shipping. a local engine builder says 1500 for everything from taking my block and preparing it, doing the rotating seembly, and the top end. so $9000 for something i will get around 450 rwhp, which was my original plan for power.

or i can get golen's 396/520hp $8000. chad says he used the same thing with a little less flowing heads and got the 415 rwhp through stalled auto. now they use better heads and its putting out around 540hp and so i will get like 425rwhp for a grand cheaper?

the local engine builder says he can make a 500hp lt1 for $6500, not sure if that includes labor or not, if it doesnt it will probably be around $7500 for his complete. i will be around 400-415 rwhp with his im guessing

what do you guys think?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Have your local builder build the motor. This way you can stop in, check the progress, and not pay shipping and all that other crap. Talking to a live person is a thousand times better than talking to a voice on a phone.

Not to mention Golen has shoddy workmanship. I wouldn't recommend them to anyone.

Tireburnin

iTrader: (42)

When it comes to building an engine YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR! Don't scrimp or you will end up doing it over to get what you orginally wanted.

There is a reason certain parts, shops and services cost more than others. It seems like you are taking what a saleman says as fact.

You should really look at who's car is running like you want (or a goup of cars that perform as desired) and copy their setup. Going fast and making power isn't tricky.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

things need to be planned in order for a good working setup. what will the car be used for? how much will it weigh? then pick your heads, pick a cam, pick a converter.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

you shouldn't solely use an ET to base your decisions on what powertrain to go with. E.T. is simply the vehicle's ability to effectively use it's available power and get down the track and isn't exactly a perfect basis to compare setups for what power the motor makes. can't say a dyno comparison is the best either since many variables can exist between the two vehicles. imo the best idea would be to look at a combination of ET & Trap Speed, since trap speed is basically a calculation of power-to-weight and ET is the vehicles ability to utilize that power.

+1 to that order. cam should compliment heads, and convertor and gear compliment their combination. worry about convertor size after you decide what top end you'll be going with, talk with a convertor company or the cam grinder and they will have a decent idea of what stall would be optimal for your setup

Cruzer23

iTrader: (3)

I think you guys have gotten in such a format for replying to these types of threads.

i will go with AI or LE heads and cam. so there is no need to tell me pick my heads then pick my cam. they do that, they custom the cam just for the heads you chose. you guys just have to know this as much as they are talked about.

I have repeated at least 2 times that im not trying to be a cheapo, and scimp on parts. All i am asking is simply that i dont spend $10k for 425rwhp when i could spend just $7k for the same rwhp.

I think the best bet is just to call up companies that sell these parts, because they are just plain more helpful. They never tell you do bolt ons first, see if u like that power.

whammer33024

iTrader: (6)

you're getting pissy for no reason at this point. yeah, you could probably make the same horsepower for less money, but is it going to be as reliable? that's what these guys are trying to tell you. and calling companies that sell you the parts are going to sound like geniuses, since they are the ones TRYING TO MAKE SALES. i've personally love the advice you have gotten in this thread and will keep it in mind for my build

Tireburnin

iTrader: (42)

There are people in this thread that have spent 10K and made more than your goal. There are plenty of people who have spent way more and made less power.

I have never seen a Golen setup make the power claimed to you and I have only seen the exact opposite (big claimed power and horrible track/dyno results).

I have seen more of the results you seek from one company than another. I highly recommend you go with Ai. You might call them and ask where you can bend on parts to save some money and reach your goals for less money. If you are laying down a big check with one company, they will know your whole setup. I'm not saying this to imply you are being cheap, just that if one place is specing your whole setup, they may tell you that X header will work just fine savign $250. They may tell you X oil pump is a waste of money or Y machine work is not necessary for your goals.

Are you required to pay tax on an out fo state purchase from NC to TN? That seems odd to me.

SS MPSTR

iTrader: (1)

Delusions of grandeur. First, anyone you're running that has a $100k Z06 is going to hurt your feelings and ego in a big way - especially considering that $3k in exhaust and a tune puts the whp numbers of the Z06 beyond your goal by ~50 and weighs ~600# less. Add a Vortech with only 4.5# pulley and power shoots to 650whp with all else bone stock - ouch! Unless your plans include huge weight reduction and a power adder, you're going to have a hard time with a well-driven stock Z06 that only costs $65k.

I applaud your enthusiasm, and 450whp through an auto is damn stout, but don't kid yourself.

Cruzer23

iTrader: (3)

I was not getting pissy lol

i just found them arguing about go by et times, go by trap time, go by the exact setup of someone else, not helpful.

i dont know if i am required to pay tax, i was just being prepared i guess.

as far as the z06, stock they run mid to high 11s. im hoping to get like an 11 flat. so i was assume that i would out run them. guess they have nos stock and can just hit it if im ahead.

i never said i could beat a modded z06. that would be kidding myself

is 450 rwhp through an auto impossible or something? ive heard people getting 400 no idea why 45-50 more is impossible

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

If you want to run 11 flat, 12g might get you close. Ask me how I know.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

^^^Fixed.

Cruzer23

iTrader: (3)

im pretty much going for exactly what u have. u have ai's 200cc dominator heads, which is what they estimated me with and matching cam.

$8k for the engine using my block and the rest from AI. rotating assembly, heads, cam, injectors, hydraulic roller kit, TB.

$2k for rebuilt trans and stall
$2k for rear end

what suspension parts did u get though? i just got adjustable panhard bar and lower control arm so far.

JasonShort

iTrader: (242)

Cruzer, have you spent some significant time searching out past threads here? Alot of the questions you are asking have been covered in great depth in the past. I'm not trying to say that to be condecending here, but to actually help you get answers quicker and with more detail. When I need technical info, I usually spend hours going through old threads and searching under different search words to seek out the info.

Jason

SS MPSTR

iTrader: (1)

They run mid-11's easily actually, and those who know how to drive them well are into the low 11's. Furman's 10.981 is the fasted documented stock Z06.

Bone-Stock on Stock Tires ------*Current Avg. 11.506 secs. @ 123.965 mph 1.859 secs
******************General Motors Factory Specification: 11.7 seconds @125 mph.*****************


1----10.981 @ 128.90--1.77---jamie furman ------'06
2----11.138 @ 127.20--1.76---Ranger------'06.
3----11.242 @ 122.38--1.68---Dr.Ron------'06.
4----11.311 @ 122.89--1.80---BLU-BY-U------'06.
5----11.349 @ 124.97--1.75---zosix427-----'06.
Top 10 avg: 11.323 @ 124.99
6----11.392 @ 124.84--1.92--- C5 Frank------'06
7----11.429 @ 124.88--1.86---dgdoc------'06.
8----11.443 @ 125.93--1.95---O7zeeO6------'07
9----11.458 @ 124.13--1.80--- layjzay----- '06
10---11.488 @ 123.86--1.80---Z06kait-----'07

Whether you hit an 11-flat will depend on many other factors, such as supporting parts, suspension, weather, track conditions and whether you can even drive. Not a slam - this is reality.

NOS stock?? Um, no, but you might need it. But then again, if you think stock Z06's cost $100k, maybe you do believe they have nitrous from the factory too.

Not sure what you consider modded, but with only bolt-ons, a few are deep into the 10's - with air conditioning and other creature comforts on the car without a lick of nitrous!

I have a modified LTX, and lucky enough to have a mild bolt-on C6 Z06 (soom to have LSXR and cam) and can tell you from first hand experience that it isn't going to be cheap or easy to get a 12-16 year old platform to perform like, or easily beat, the Z06.

Good luck to you.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

The creature comforts are the difference. It is very easy to get an LTX into the 11s. To get one into the 11s with as much comfort as a new z06 will take TONS of cash...and then your bragging rights limit you to being only as fast as a stock car.

Build the car how you want, because you can't have your cake and eat it too. There is always someone faster...and when your street cars are heavily modded and crazy fast, a stockish crotch rocket will smoke it at the track and the cycle starts all over. 9's are to bikes what 12's are to cars.

The point is, comparing apples to oranges is kind of pointless. Its an LTX, and should be compared to other cars in the same category. Don't get caught up trying to beat far superior platforms, because you'll either end up successful and broke, or fail and still be broke...and either way you'll be crazy .

Cruzer23

iTrader: (3)

Its sarcasm, which clearly you dont understand. i just threw $100k out there, the point being that i would have a total of $25k invested in my car, including subs and nice wheels. while z06s have (so you understand) $70k spent for bone stock.

dont know about you, but i much prefer the decked out $25k car that can at least keep right behind the $70k car, not to mention added features like seats 4, subs, etc.

The NOS was a joke as clearly no car bought from a dealership has it. How can you not understand that? It was in english, it was not a big jumbled sentence. I dont understand how you misunderstood the sarcasm.

really my objective was that some rich punk cant get his dad to buy him for example, the z06 and think he can out run me. I realize that if he bought it and then went and did bolt ons or whatever, good for him. he should out run me considering he spending even more $ on top of the already $70k car.