so how much does regapping plugs effect tune?
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Thats cool. My car seems to like the tr55's @ .45 the best na, but not every car is the same. If I decide to spray I will switch to tr6's @ .35. I wonder why le suggests that plug gap for na also. I have been told to run as wide plug gap you can with out getting spark blow out. That will yield best performance and mileage. Although I wouldnt argue what le suggests either...
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Maybe its because the higher compression and higher spinning motor. Hes the guy that basically picked every part on the car and so far he has been dead on everytime.
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Yep. I've followed every step, so far so good. I'm happy, just need to regap some new plugs and see if it makes a difference.
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My car idles awesome now and from the very little street time it has seen runs way better with the smaller gap, but Im sure that has alot to do with the black plug I pulled and the tightened rocker. Either way since I pulled that MAF screen its had the intake BF, I cant remember it happening b4 that.
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Not meaning to thread jack but I have a question?????? I hope someone can clear this up for me. I have a cc503 set up with the MAF de-screen and tr-55's with a gap of .44. I have recently noticed a gas smell at the exhaust and slight smoke (on start up) that smells of gas. I'm gonna re-adjust the rockers soon and now I'm concerned about the plugs. What should the proper gap be? This maybe all in my head now from reading this thread buuuuut now I'm kinda concerned.
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Well guys I hit up the dyno, we were way down on power & made 405rwhp, but we were getting some knock, and the smoke still, but smoke is minimal and we couldnt actually hear anything. By the time I got it home the SES light went on & it was making noise again. I pulled the VC and the same RR was loose again. So I pulled the rocker completely and the valve seal indeed did get pushed up (causing the smoke) but thats not the bad prob. This is what caused the problem in the first place.
Scary part is about 20 of those bearings 2 pcs of the c-clip and part of the bearing race is in the motor. I pulled the intake found a couple pcs but alot more still MIA.
Ill pull the pan and see what I can find. Looks like the 355 is going in!!!
Scary part is about 20 of those bearings 2 pcs of the c-clip and part of the bearing race is in the motor. I pulled the intake found a couple pcs but alot more still MIA.
Ill pull the pan and see what I can find. Looks like the 355 is going in!!!
that sucks, were those comp pro-mags, and were they new? hopefully there wasnt too much damage to the top-end. what would cause a valve seal to be pushed up? good luck with however you decide to fix it.
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My good bud is a Metalergist or whatever the hell its called and it is immeaditatly clear the Rocker was super porous and broke, the push rod is looks fine and we are sure the seal got pushed back from an intake backfire. Looks like the rocker just busted. Ill be pulling the motor so we will see if there is anything else is wrong in there.
Yes its a Comp pro mag, I bought them new last Oct installed Nov and has less than 1000 miles easy
Yes its a Comp pro mag, I bought them new last Oct installed Nov and has less than 1000 miles easy
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For the OP are you sure that there was no piston to valve contact?????
Whoops took to long to post and it is a promag
Something is definately amiss I have used promags for years and they keep their silver color.
Last edited by aboatguy; Jul 18, 2009 at 03:46 PM.
That would be a hell of a conicidence if the bad rocker just happened to be in the same place an intake backfire pushed up a seal. I have never heard of a backfire pushing up a seal. I suppose it is possible but I would expect there to be more wrong then than one seal.
Man, Comp Cams has been going downhill for years due to cheap manufacturing (probably due to sourcing cheap suppliers/OEMs), lack of Quality Control and in general probably flat-out greed to keep profit margins high.
I know I NEVER order an off-the-shelf grind cam without it being a "custom order" so that it is CNC ground and spun to verify dimensions. That is due to my personally diagnosing over a dozen bad cam grinds where the lobes were twisted down the axis progressively, back in the 1999-2000 timeframe. All where off-the-shelf master-to-blank non-CNC grinds. And yes, these were all LT1 grinds not only under Comp Cams numbers, but also for places like LPE.
I do know the new Comp Cams Ultra-Gold rockers are actually Scorpion Pro series rockers. Hell they come in the same box as the Scorpions no less. Just that thye are Cheaper through Summit and such compared to buying the Pro-series Scorpions through a Scorpion vendor.
The Comp Cams studs are also all made by ARP (even are stamped ARP), so those are a safe-bet as well.
I say screw the Comp-R lifters as well, as I have had problems with a newer set with them either not pumping up, improper hydraulic action, or them "sticking" and allowing excess lash. I am putting in a set of LS7 lifters as we speak and am almost scared to see what I find once I pull those POS Comp-Rs out. I am hoping to find no damaged rollers and no damage to the cam lobes, otherwise it is a cam swap for me. (New 383 motor with less than 1k miles on it here)
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We will find out as soon as the heads come off, so far all I have done is pull the intake, but there was NO noticable signs of PVC, before the car started to run like crap. Purred like a kitten.
One thing for sure is they are Pro Mags I bought them myself and even still have the box
One thing for sure is they are Pro Mags I bought them myself and even still have the box