Install EFI connection LSX PCM
somehow i knew you were going to say that. lol. i see that you sell the custom made harness or stand alones, now do ya'll sell the just the extra circuits needed to complete the swap in a scenario like what you suggested i do , or am i a tard and just didn't see where it said that on your webpage. for the most part it just assumes you need one of your harness.
somehow i knew you were going to say that. lol. i see that you sell the custom made harness or stand alones, now do ya'll sell the just the extra circuits needed to complete the swap in a scenario like what you suggested i do , or am i a tard and just didn't see where it said that on your webpage. for the most part it just assumes you need one of your harness.
somehow i knew you were going to say that. lol. i see that you sell the custom made harness or stand alones, now do ya'll sell the just the extra circuits needed to complete the swap in a scenario like what you suggested i do , or am i a tard and just didn't see where it said that on your webpage. for the most part it just assumes you need one of your harness.
Check out their website - probably a way to contact them to ask them these questions.
Im about to attempt the same time because efi connection has a 12 week leed on harness's... howed it work out for you then? Dosent sound quite as intemidating after reading your post.
I'll be posting some pics soon of reworking the wiring harness, just trying to figure out what I want to keep and not keep. It's not that bad if you've ever pulled any wires out of a harness before to replace a connector. Plus in the efi24x rewire kit, they give you the little depin tool.
For those of you who did the DIY harness... when you broke out the shared grounds, where is the merge point located physically in the harness so i dont have to rip appart more than i need too. Or should i just disregard the stock wiring and run new grounds all the way from each sensor to the pcm?
Car is up and running and has been for a while, been on the back burning but now since its summer I am ready to drive it. I have ordered Hp tuners and I have been lurking on their website for some time. I ended up getting a killer deal on a slightly used standard version of hp tuners so I plan to hook it up through the EGR 0-5 volt source to use my wideband.
Anyone know what Pin number it is on the harness? BTW I ditched the DIY harness and have one from EFI connections.
Anyone know what Pin number it is on the harness? BTW I ditched the DIY harness and have one from EFI connections.
Seems the EFI connection harness doesn't come with the single wire EGR system because it would not work with the LS1.
However I can just run a wire from the PCM at Blue 55 (02 411 pcm) and enable the EGR to gain volt reading for my wideband.
Found my answer https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...d-vehicle.html
However I can just run a wire from the PCM at Blue 55 (02 411 pcm) and enable the EGR to gain volt reading for my wideband.
Found my answer https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...d-vehicle.html
To the OP is that Cam signal a 1X ? Can that cam housing piece be fitted to an oem Timing cover?
Im running a gen 7 dfi and was using dual sync for inputs Im looking to put on a crank trigger setup for crank but would love to have a cam signal right off the cam too if it's 1x.
Im running a gen 7 dfi and was using dual sync for inputs Im looking to put on a crank trigger setup for crank but would love to have a cam signal right off the cam too if it's 1x.
Just chiming in here!
We just finished a DIY EFI connection 24x swap on a 95 Z28 manual trans, 383, AFR 227 heads and a mid 230's/mid 240's duration etc.
The car made awesome power (448 RWHP 421 RWTQ SAE dynojet 224xlc), drove great, and everything went really smooth. I'd say the harness work took us about 4-5 hours but it was all pretty straight forward and easy. We custom made the plug wires and welded little bosses for his coil packs to bolt on and off the valve covers.
It really doesn't make sense not to do this swap. He was able to sell his MSD optispark, 95 PCM, coil, plug wires (almost new), MSD box, etc and come out not making money but spending about as much as the next optispark swap he would inevitably had to do otherwise. Your replacing wearable parts with non-wearable parts.
We are trying to talk everyone who has a LT1 that has work done at our shop to do this, especially if we have the engine out for any reason.
We just finished a DIY EFI connection 24x swap on a 95 Z28 manual trans, 383, AFR 227 heads and a mid 230's/mid 240's duration etc.
The car made awesome power (448 RWHP 421 RWTQ SAE dynojet 224xlc), drove great, and everything went really smooth. I'd say the harness work took us about 4-5 hours but it was all pretty straight forward and easy. We custom made the plug wires and welded little bosses for his coil packs to bolt on and off the valve covers.
It really doesn't make sense not to do this swap. He was able to sell his MSD optispark, 95 PCM, coil, plug wires (almost new), MSD box, etc and come out not making money but spending about as much as the next optispark swap he would inevitably had to do otherwise. Your replacing wearable parts with non-wearable parts.
We are trying to talk everyone who has a LT1 that has work done at our shop to do this, especially if we have the engine out for any reason.
Just chiming in here!
We just finished a DIY EFI connection 24x swap on a 95 Z28 manual trans, 383, AFR 227 heads and a mid 230's/mid 240's duration etc.
The car made awesome power (448 RWHP 421 RWTQ SAE dynojet 224xlc), drove great, and everything went really smooth. I'd say the harness work took us about 4-5 hours but it was all pretty straight forward and easy. We custom made the plug wires and welded little bosses for his coil packs to bolt on and off the valve covers.
It really doesn't make sense not to do this swap. He was able to sell his MSD optispark, 95 PCM, coil, plug wires (almost new), MSD box, etc and come out not making money but spending about as much as the next optispark swap he would inevitably had to do otherwise. Your replacing wearable parts with non-wearable parts.
We are trying to talk everyone who has a LT1 that has work done at our shop to do this, especially if we have the engine out for any reason.
We just finished a DIY EFI connection 24x swap on a 95 Z28 manual trans, 383, AFR 227 heads and a mid 230's/mid 240's duration etc.
The car made awesome power (448 RWHP 421 RWTQ SAE dynojet 224xlc), drove great, and everything went really smooth. I'd say the harness work took us about 4-5 hours but it was all pretty straight forward and easy. We custom made the plug wires and welded little bosses for his coil packs to bolt on and off the valve covers.
It really doesn't make sense not to do this swap. He was able to sell his MSD optispark, 95 PCM, coil, plug wires (almost new), MSD box, etc and come out not making money but spending about as much as the next optispark swap he would inevitably had to do otherwise. Your replacing wearable parts with non-wearable parts.
We are trying to talk everyone who has a LT1 that has work done at our shop to do this, especially if we have the engine out for any reason.
Okay we have the debate on weather or not the ls1 setup will make more hp over the lt1 do to the ls1 setup being morfe precise. But my questikon is this wouldn't the big hp be from the ls1 pcm being able to support higher rpms? I think I have read that you can spin higher on an ls1 right? And you always hear the pcm is a limit in making hp on the top end. How many rpms will the ls1 support? And how much more hp are you talking about gaining in that rpm range over the lt1 pcm?






