RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

You're going to use thread-locker on your header bolts and cylinder head bolts?

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

Oh I am...I am not making the same mistake twice! This time I know more about what I am doing though, so things will go a little smoother.

By the way, the "Implied Facepalm" thing was ******* HILARIOUS and 110% true! As soon as I figured out what happened that's exactly what I did...slammed my palm into my forehead! lol Plus or minus a few profanities and throwing a few things

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

I HAVE to use it on my damn header bolts...they wont stop freaking backing out. I used Percy's split lock bolts, I ensured everything was tight, I tried different gaskets, I tried anti-sieze, I tried thread sealer, I tried High Temp silicone.....nothing works. I said **** it and I'm using high temp, high strength red threadlocker on them...I'm tired of fixing header gaskets and exhaust leaks once a week, and that is how often I have been getting them. I'm sick of it.

I'm half tempted to weld my headers to my heads!!! (JUST KIDDING, I know better than that!)

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

and correction. I got my **** confused. I am not using threadlocker on the head bolts, I am using the white thread sealer. Sorry...said the wrong thing

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

No need to use thread locker on cylinder head bolts. It just isn't necessary. The only thing you need to do is seal the head bolts that go into water jackets. I know the entire bottom row (short bolts) are in water, but don't remember beyond that. Best thing to do is shoot air into the bolt holes and find out. I've only ever used some sort of thread sealant on those bolts that go into water and use a very (VERY VERY/LIKE A FEW TINY DROPS) thin coating of oil on the threads of the bolts that don't.
Also put oil on the contact surfaces of the bolts heads. This, along w/ the oil on the threads of the dry bolts gives a far more accurate torque reading when torquing the heads down.
Oh and I too have done the face palm, even double face palm quite a few times.

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

The ARP Bolts I bought had a bunch of washers inside a bag with oil on them already...VERY convenient lol. And again I meant thread sealer, not threadlocker.

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

Ok, next question....

With my setup (LS7 lifters/TPiS ZZ409 Cam/1.6 SA RR's) How much would or could my pushrod length change??? Estimates?

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

oil?? i would still put more sealer on the threads and also blow out the bolt holes with compressed air in the engine block to make sure they are dry.

CATCHMYZ

iTrader: (1)

I never post on here but I can not hold my tongue on this and I am not trying to bash you. With that said you need to take your car to a qualified shop and have the work performed by them on it and if you so wish ask if you can come in and watch them do it so you can learn how this stuff works. It is painfully obvious much like a lot of other individuals on this forum you do not have the skills or the knowledge as of now to upgrade your car. The other thread you recently started asking if you can reuse "new" fluids that were in the motor which broke sheds even more light on the fact you do not know what your doing. The only thing your going to accomplish at attempting to fix your mistake is break the motor again.

also just a few things off the top of my head that your about to do wrong.

1) the oil that comes on arp bolts and washers is a different lubricant then what is needed to obtain proper torque readings. It even states that on the instructions included with the fasteners.

2) the only way to obtain correct length pushrods is to measure, and the only way to properly measure is if you lash the rocker arm down correctly to begin with. the incorrect way is to ask for peoples opinions on here.

3) Red loctite should never be used on any fastener to hold manifolds or headers to an aluminum head regardless if your having issues.

I'm sure people will let me know how big of a b_stard I am, but if you was near me I would be more then happy come help you with your build to get it back running.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Lol Corey got owned.

I wouldnt recommend red loc-tite in aluminum threads either. I've seen it pull threads out more than once from idiots using it.

Maybe I should go help him this time?

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

That would be ******* GREAT Calvin, considering I asked 9 people to help me in the first GD PLACE and noone would!!!

Second of all CATCHMYZ, do YOU wanna fork up the 1200 effing dollars to have someone else "professionally" swap out my cam??? Cause I sure as **** dont have the cash for it! Even AFTER this little spat I STILL am not paying as much as I would have to get it done by a "professional."

Third of all I have been told that this threadlocker is safe for the aluminum heads however if its not then please enlighten me as to a way to hold my damned headers to my car because everything else sure as hell aint working! I am not saying it definately is, or you dont know...what I AM saying is if you know why it's not good for it, please explain WHY, and provide another way for me to stop these damned bolts from backing out, falling out, and blowing out my header gaskets 3 or 4 times a freaking month because I AM SICK OF REPLACING THEM!!!

And yes...your right...I DONT have experience which is why I asked for help a LONG time ago...people sat on their asses and wouldnt do it..I got tired of watching summer pass by, what little we have here, and watching my car slowly fall apart thanks to me doing nothing to it. It got so bad I couldnt even drive my car for fear of causing MORE damage...

I will learn. I will figure it out. I will make adjustments...The best way for me to learn **** is getting my hands dirty and DOINg it...I asked about the fluids SOLELY because I JUST bought that oil 5 ******* days ago and REALLY dont want go go back in and do it over because yes oil is cheap...but added on to the 65.00 in gaskets, 225.00 in valves, 100.00 in pushrods, and shop time on top of that......it gets up there and I was checking to see if I could conserve or not. It was a mere question, not necessarily intent to do it...I wanted to see what people with more experience than me thought about it...Besides, like they said...the engine never even fired. It never once started, so there cant be much of any debris in the oil because it never cycled through.

Not trying to bash me? Really? Cause it sure as hell felt like it. Forgive me for being broke after this and not wanting to blow too much more of my money or having the capability to have this done professionally.

Sorry to vent, but that seemed like a personal stab at me when I am already upset and trying to resolve a situation on low funds and low time. Kindof pissed me off. Dont take it personal, I will be over it an move on in a few.

Just do me a favor...if your going to critisize.......please provide a solution as well so I can try and fix this instead of having to ask more questions

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

and Calvin... STOP SPELLING MY NAME WITH AN "E" lmao

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

the solution would be to never touch your car again. Your an idiot




as far as header bolts, how long are the ones your using now? 3/4in long? maybe if you use a slightly longer bolt they will have more "bite" to them and not back out. try to find some that are an 1inch long.

edunegan

i agree a longer bolt fixed my bolt backing issue and i use copper silicone in place of gaskets works great for me!

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

Everyone on here is ******* harsh. This is why people are afraid to ask questions and learn stuff.

FbodyFreak

iTrader: (5)

when i let my buddy drive my car a LONG time ago... i think he missed a gear and over revved it.... i heard slight valvtrain knock/ticking.... pulled the covers and 3 rockers were loose, 2 pushrods snapped,1 bent, and he also bent the valve because it hit the piston.... (not saying that yours did just sharing info on my cars history)....

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

WTF! Where did I say anything to draw THIS?! I was not directing anything at you nor was a requesting people to CHASTIZE me for my ******* inexperience!

I needed advice! I came to a place where people know more than I do. I want to learn. God forbid if I do it the hard ******* way but nontheless I dont need YOU to get all personal and tell me I am an idiot! Are you telling me you knew everything about your car when YOY started?! Maybe I do things different than you, but that does NOT mean you have to insult me personally!

If you dont like what I am doing, or see something wrong, tell me what the **** I am doing SO I CAN FIX IT AND DO IT RIGHT!

But keep you snide little comments to yourself

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

I already have 1" bolts on it and they are STILL backing out avery week or so...Like I said...I tried everything I can think of which is why I turned to threadlocker...I'm fed up.

Is there anything else out there y'all can think of to help me keep these bolts in?

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

Also, I would like to clarify...

I am talking about Permatex Red Threadlocker when I mention this stuff...

NOT Red Loctite.

They are 2 different products by 2 different companies. I was told Red Loctite is BAD for aluminum, but this Red Permatex Threadlocker is supposed to be ok...just what I was told from a reliable source.....

Dunno if anyone out there has experience with the permatex stuff or not, but everyone keeps mentioning loctite

JohnnyFormula

The solution would be for all you to stop being ********. He is asking a question so he can learn. What the **** do you care if he breaks his car while he learns? He's got to learn somewhere. Jesus christ no wonder everyone is afraid to ask any questions with elitists ***** like you around.