So i know its to early to talk about winter but i need to finally start building the car.. I have been saving some money but not sure what I need to get or what im capable to do on my own.

I still need to figure out my starting issue. I know ive posted about it before but i would like to get everything on one thread. After letting the car sit for more then a half hour or so it takes around 6-10 seconds to start. But, after about 3 days of sitting without starting it will fire right up?

My goals with the car is mid to low 12s on motor and possible high 11s on giggly juice. But want to keep it mainly a n/a car. I am only 19 years old so money isnt plentlyful.

My current mods done is only SLP Cat Back. What should i be looking to spend and what are the best routes? It has 130k on the motor and its a banger car as well!

Thanks in advanced for all the answers and help. Thanks LS1Tech!!!

 

Slow starting issues are usually a fuel delivery problem, check your fuel pressure under these different circumstances and see where you are at. I would start with basic bolt ons then suspension. Get some long tube headers, ORY, cold air intake, if it is an auto get a good torque converter and a tune. I would also suggest getting sub frame connectors, torque arm, perhaps some lower control arms and some relocation brackets. Throw some drag radials on there and you should be close to your NA goal IMO.

 

Lets start off by asking how much money do you have? And how much realistically will you have before winter with an extra $500 of FML emergency funds?

I know how you feel as I am 19 myself and just going to college. Money for me isn't bad, but its in stocks and I'm trying to focus on school and make more out of the money instead of spending it on my car right away

 

my goal by the winter is to have around 2-3k saved up

 

If it were me, I'd invest in full bolt-on's and wait until you have some real money to actually do the new motor build. If it ain't broke, don't fix it bro.

I've priced out a Scat 355 rebuild for me and I think its around $1,200 with machine work for a good rotating assembly and whatnot.

The issue with you rebuilding and doing your ignition stuff now is that with that amount of money you won't have a lot left to really make the car go to your goals.. You'll just have a good powerplant to start with.

Where are you located out of curiosity?

 

i live in illinois... what does full bolt ons mean... headers,cai, what else?

 

As mentioned...full bolt on's, gears, and stall (if auto). Use the rest on some suspension mods. That should leave you a nice foundation for a heads/cam kit.

 

You probably wont need a new shortblock. If anything you could go the budget route and get it freshened up with new rings and bearings until youre ready for a forged bottom end swap but most people only want their car down once or twice not a handful of times due to engine work.

For now just roll full bolt-ons(especially exhaust), converter, and a tune. You should be rolling pretty good just off of those.

I just moved to Illinois myself. The DA up here is waaaaaaaay better than North Texas. You should be able to run some crazy times during the fall up here.

 

I think the OP was aking for technical advice not looking for a life coach, get over yourself

 

Whats wrong with having some extra money saved just in case something breaks? If anything its good advice. For all we know its his only car... In that case, hmm... no money.. car breaks? SOL?

I was just relating to him and telling him what I was doing... he didn't judge me for it, you shouldn't either. Whats the point of having a badass car already if its going to be sitting at my parents house while I'm up at college? If being realistic is a crime, I'm guilty as charged.

Like I said though on the shortblock, if it ain't broke don't fix it.

I would recommend----

Performance
Motive, GM, or Richmond 3.73 gears with a full install kit (bearings..)
Yank or Vig 3200 or 3600 stall
Pacesetter Coated Longtube headers and off-road y-pipe (I believe texas-speed.com has the best price on a combo of the headers and y --- atleast that I can find so far You are in Illinois so delete your cat
Dyno tune or PCM4Less tune
Nitto Drag Radials or some nice Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials

Suspension
Rear drag shocks, umi torque arm (for LT header setups), Lower Control Arm and relocation brackets, subframe connectors, shock tower brace, some qa1 front shocks would be nice too i guess to wrap everything up

Do those and you should easily be high 12's with some good practice at the strip

Best of luck to you man

 

Only thing I would recommend different is stay away from the POSforless tuning.

www.madtuner.com

 

Im 20 and just on the tail end of my motor build. My suggestion is to do it once and do it right and that is hard to do in your price range, Im a shade over $5k into my shortblock alone. Do you really want to cut the corners and have a motor that after all that time and money is still only good for a couple hundred more ponies than a stocker? And is composed entirely of chinese made parts?

 

Whats wrong with PCMforless? Are you speaking from personal experience? I've only had my tune for about two weeks just wondering why you recommend staying away from them.

 

to bad your not closer id give you a hell of a deal on my 383 all you would need is a crank and i garauntee if your auto with stock suspen. and sticky tires and long tubes instead of my shitty mids youll be in mid to low 12s if your a t-56 and can drive the hell out of it you should be the same. i went 13.1 at 109 with shitty street tires a ummm 2.1 60 i think and that was after alot of prep and it was with a V6 rear open diff. that motor in a Z28 with a really really shot tranny this thing took seconds to shift. and im not exxagerating i went 8.3 in the 1/8 at 88 or 89 i believe. with a 1.9 60.




and PCM4Less bryan is a damn good guy hell work with you as much as he can.

 

hell talk about age?!?!?! hahah im 20 on my 4th camaro. 1. a 94 v6 a4 swapped to a LT1 t56 then to a 383 T56. 2. was the donor car. that was fun lol 3. a white 94 A4 which my 383 went into. 4. my 92 which is awaiting its new heart. i just need to buy it and rebuild it...



SOrry for stealing the thread i just saw everyone else talking about age and money and hell IT SUCKS!!! but we all went through it lol