Best place to buy Stroker ready blocks?
Best place to buy Stroker ready blocks? Looking for the best place to buy LTx stroker ready blocks? I sold my LE2 and decided to build something else. Im needing a block tha is ready for a 3.875 crank and 6.0 rods that sitting in my living room! 
did I say I was buying a block and throwing it in there? Pretty sure I didn't. I just need it to fit. Im wanting a place that basically has a 396 ready block. I hate it when people get on here and just jump around my ******* question but never answer it. this is probably my last thread on here if that keeps up. Its getting retarded on this site!
did I say I was buying a block and throwing it in there? Pretty sure I didn't. I just need it to fit. Im wanting a place that basically has a 396 ready block. I hate it when people get on here and just jump around my ******* question but never answer it. this is probably my last thread on here if that keeps up. Its getting retarded on this site!
You're a tool. His response was more than adequate. He didn't have much to work with since your original post failed and lacked information.
If you leave the LS1tech community, leave worry-free. No one will cry..
best way to clearance a block is with the rotating assembly you plan to install brought with it to a machine shop. not all 383/396 rotating assemblies require the same amount of clearancing as some will require more or less than others. different types/brands of rods, cranks, and bolts will require different amounts of clearancing. personally I believe the least amount of clearancing necessary is what you should aim for.
for example: some 383 guys have had to grind into the pan rails, hit water jackets, have to be filled, etc. I had to deal with none of those.
for example: some 383 guys have had to grind into the pan rails, hit water jackets, have to be filled, etc. I had to deal with none of those.
Thank you guys.
On top of the already good responses they gave you not many shops are going to want to work on an already machined block and if they do they are going to be none too generous to you on fees. Shops make money by doing work, if you try and get 2/3rds of the work done somewhere else and then bring it in they are not going to be nice come billing time. One shop I know of locally comes right out and tells you labor is an additional 10-15% if you supply the parts.
On top of the already good responses they gave you not many shops are going to want to work on an already machined block and if they do they are going to be none too generous to you on fees. Shops make money by doing work, if you try and get 2/3rds of the work done somewhere else and then bring it in they are not going to be nice come billing time. One shop I know of locally comes right out and tells you labor is an additional 10-15% if you supply the parts.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: new york
last i knew blocks are prepped for what is goin in .ya cant prepp a block readily without a rotating assembly in hand for messuring an whatnot ,now im new here i dont use proper grammer and i misspell a lot of things .i understood what caprice mngr was sayin if you cant ,you my friend are no smarter than my 9 mnth old son
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I'm the tool? I CLEARLY asked about the block to be able to clear the 3.875 stroke and 6.0 rods. Nothing more. I already knew about the cylinder bore size having to match my pistons which I clearly didn't ask about!
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I understand all thats being said and have done loads a research on clearancing block. I was just hoping maybe there was a shop that did all of it and would maybe clear all cranks. Someone could have just siad "No one does it. Best to go to a machine shop." That would have been totally fine and would have thanks them for the info. I personally hate it when I ask questions and basically get jerked around by the ***** for hrs until someone finally answers the questions I asked.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: new york
I understand all thats being said and have done loads a research on clearancing block. I was just hoping maybe there was a shop that did all of it and would maybe clear all cranks. Someone could have just siad "No one does it. Best to go to a machine shop." That would have been totally fine and would have thanks them for the info. I personally hate it when I ask questions and basically get jerked around by the ***** for hrs until someone finally answers the questions I asked.
well I got right to the point instead of 'jerking you around for hours' didn't I
chill out sometimes it takes a day or two to get all the answers. the expert members around here are slowly disappearing and you being rude to one of them surely ain't gonna help so YOU
or try being less of a jerk. Seriously dude chill out. 96capricemgr answered your question to the fullest extent as to how your original post was stated. If you did as much research as you claim, you would know that the best way to do it is take a bare untouched block to a machine shop with your rotating assembly so they can clearance everything. Machines are not perfect. Even if you buy two of the same cranks, one could be a hair off from the other. Be smart about it and don't act like an ******* when people try to give you advice.
Seriously dude chill out. 96capricemgr answered your question to the fullest extent as to how your original post was stated. If you did as much research as you claim, you would know that the best way to do it is take a bare untouched block to a machine shop with your rotating assembly so they can clearance everything. Machines are not perfect. Even if you buy two of the same cranks, one could be a hair off from the other. Be smart about it and don't act like an ******* when people try to give you advice.
What rods did you choose? That is probably the most critical part of how much clearancing needs to be done, every bit as important or maybe moreso than the crank.
There are companies that can clearance a block before mocking up a rotating assembly, in the end though the rotating assembly still needs to be mocked up. They are just taking an educated guess and using it as a starting point. Hell there can even be cam to rod clearance issues so the cam has to be in the motor to really check clearance.
There are companies that can clearance a block before mocking up a rotating assembly, in the end though the rotating assembly still needs to be mocked up. They are just taking an educated guess and using it as a starting point. Hell there can even be cam to rod clearance issues so the cam has to be in the motor to really check clearance.
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to the OP....you got answers...maybe with a little more salt in them than desired.
I suggest you contact a qualified local machine shop and discuss your intents directly with them for advice.
www.golenengineservice.com is one place you might want to check. I would think they to would advise that the rotateing assembly and cam be supplied for the block to be acurately clearanced for those parts. on stroker builds another area to clear is the oil pan....although that is minimal and typically around the #2 rod to pan clearance. Just pound out pan from inside if necessary. You won't know clearance until the short block is assembled and you lay pan on.
I suggest you contact a qualified local machine shop and discuss your intents directly with them for advice.
www.golenengineservice.com is one place you might want to check. I would think they to would advise that the rotateing assembly and cam be supplied for the block to be acurately clearanced for those parts. on stroker builds another area to clear is the oil pan....although that is minimal and typically around the #2 rod to pan clearance. Just pound out pan from inside if necessary. You won't know clearance until the short block is assembled and you lay pan on.
What rods did you choose? That is probably the most critical part of how much clearancing needs to be done, every bit as important or maybe moreso than the crank.
There are companies that can clearance a block before mocking up a rotating assembly, in the end though the rotating assembly still needs to be mocked up. They are just taking an educated guess and using it as a starting point. Hell there can even be cam to rod clearance issues so the cam has to be in the motor to really check clearance.
There are companies that can clearance a block before mocking up a rotating assembly, in the end though the rotating assembly still needs to be mocked up. They are just taking an educated guess and using it as a starting point. Hell there can even be cam to rod clearance issues so the cam has to be in the motor to really check clearance.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-26000/
yeah I also read about the rod to cam clearance and possibly having to use a small base circle cam and then you still might have to clearance the rod a little.
sorry about yesterday. I'm stressed about the 2100 mile trip from CA to KY and i jumped at ya.
I beams are easier for block and cam clearance but type of bolt is also a factor. usually if a rod is "clearanced for stroke" means it won't require a small base circle cam and has better clearancing "stroker" ARP bolts than the standard ARP rod bolts