Ai..................
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Hi,
I'm new here and looking for a little info. I'm usually on CF but thought I'd get some of you guys opinions.
I have a '96 Corvette LT1 I'm planning on doing a cam/head upgrade on. The car has a stock bottom end. It's an A4 with a 2800 stall. Stainless Works LT headers into Corsa exhaust. The rear gear is 3.07.
I have talked to Ron at Ai and this is what he recommends for me. I am perfectly fine with his recommendations I just want to see if any of you are running a similar setup and what I might expect from it. The car is basicly a weekend car with a handful of track time at Rockingham in a year.
Ai's package:
100% CNC'd 200cc Competition LT1 Cylinder Head Package
Basic intake porting
All the goodies that go along with head porting like pushrods lifters, etc,etc.
The cam is a
21X-224deg which will focus more on the 2000-6000 rpm range
Thanks in advance and also this is a great website.
I'm new here and looking for a little info. I'm usually on CF but thought I'd get some of you guys opinions.
I have a '96 Corvette LT1 I'm planning on doing a cam/head upgrade on. The car has a stock bottom end. It's an A4 with a 2800 stall. Stainless Works LT headers into Corsa exhaust. The rear gear is 3.07.
I have talked to Ron at Ai and this is what he recommends for me. I am perfectly fine with his recommendations I just want to see if any of you are running a similar setup and what I might expect from it. The car is basicly a weekend car with a handful of track time at Rockingham in a year.
Ai's package:
100% CNC'd 200cc Competition LT1 Cylinder Head Package
Basic intake porting
All the goodies that go along with head porting like pushrods lifters, etc,etc.
The cam is a
21X-224deg which will focus more on the 2000-6000 rpm range
Thanks in advance and also this is a great website.
Last edited by Weav's Vet; 08-23-2009 at 09:26 AM.
#2
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those are some serious heads. and a baby cam if you ask me. however that Might be more stock bottom end friendly. how many miles are on the short block ? idk if i would trucst the connecting rod bearings to hold up under the kinds of numbers youll be dishing out. id Definitely at least upgrade the oiling system to make sure you get oil to where its needed.
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those are some serious heads. and a baby cam if you ask me. however that Might be more stock bottom end friendly. how many miles are on the short block ? idk if i would trucst the connecting rod bearings to hold up under the kinds of numbers youll be dishing out. id Definitely at least upgrade the oiling system to make sure you get oil to where its needed.
The motor has 90K on it and is in very good shape. I just returned from a dyno run and with all bolt ons it made 303/307. Uses no oil what so ever.
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With their 190cc heads and the 226 cam my Caprice has gone 11.9 in good weather at 4200lbs. Only a 3400 stall and if anything it is a little tighter than that rating. Lots of people dismiss it as a drag car but I daily drive it a lot and it is comfortable enough for the wife to nap in when we go on two hour trips.
A friend has just their cam in his old cop car, HEAVY car the way it is setup and the driver is a big guy 13.4-5 in the dead of summer on 87 octane. Might even be the cam they are recommending for you.
Their 200cc head is also what is on the fastest NA LT1 Impala 10.5 at 125(runs out of gear) 3800lbs with driver and lifts the nose level a good 16-18" of daylight under the front tires. Amazing sight.
You will be happy.
A friend has just their cam in his old cop car, HEAVY car the way it is setup and the driver is a big guy 13.4-5 in the dead of summer on 87 octane. Might even be the cam they are recommending for you.
Their 200cc head is also what is on the fastest NA LT1 Impala 10.5 at 125(runs out of gear) 3800lbs with driver and lifts the nose level a good 16-18" of daylight under the front tires. Amazing sight.
You will be happy.
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With their 190cc heads and the 226 cam my Caprice has gone 11.9 in good weather at 4200lbs. Only a 3400 stall and if anything it is a little tighter than that rating. Lots of people dismiss it as a drag car but I daily drive it a lot and it is comfortable enough for the wife to nap in when we go on two hour trips.
A friend has just their cam in his old cop car, HEAVY car the way it is setup and the driver is a big guy 13.4-5 in the dead of summer on 87 octane. Might even be the cam they are recommending for you.
Their 200cc head is also what is on the fastest NA LT1 Impala 10.5 at 125(runs out of gear) 3800lbs with driver and lifts the nose level a good 16-18" of daylight under the front tires. Amazing sight.
You will be happy.
A friend has just their cam in his old cop car, HEAVY car the way it is setup and the driver is a big guy 13.4-5 in the dead of summer on 87 octane. Might even be the cam they are recommending for you.
Their 200cc head is also what is on the fastest NA LT1 Impala 10.5 at 125(runs out of gear) 3800lbs with driver and lifts the nose level a good 16-18" of daylight under the front tires. Amazing sight.
You will be happy.
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You'll have great driveability w/ 1/4mi performance to boot. I'm sure you'll be happy. Don't worry about your bearings. Installing new components is not what kills bearings. Installing new components in the sloppiest/dirtiest/carefree/in-a-hurry way are what kill bearings.
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Good deal!
That is exactly what I told Ron I wanted. It appears he knows his stuff. I've been lurking here for quite some time reading up on them and needless to say I'm very impressed. A lot of guys are telling me to buy new instead of having mine redone. I believe I'll be happy with what they have to offer. My 1/4 now is only 13.3 @101 so maybe I can break into that 12.0 catagory.
Thanks for your input!
That is exactly what I told Ron I wanted. It appears he knows his stuff. I've been lurking here for quite some time reading up on them and needless to say I'm very impressed. A lot of guys are telling me to buy new instead of having mine redone. I believe I'll be happy with what they have to offer. My 1/4 now is only 13.3 @101 so maybe I can break into that 12.0 catagory.
Thanks for your input!
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AI knows exactly what they are doing and have the results to back it all up. I have an AI Cam kit right now and plan on doing 200cc heads down the road. I love my AI cam and can't wait to get the rest of the car set up how it needs to be so i can really see what this thing can do. I Highly suggest AI for your needs, you will love the results!
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Good deal!
That is exactly what I told Ron I wanted. It appears he knows his stuff. I've been lurking here for quite some time reading up on them and needless to say I'm very impressed. A lot of guys are telling me to buy new instead of having mine redone. I believe I'll be happy with what they have to offer. My 1/4 now is only 13.3 @101 so maybe I can break into that 12.0 catagory.
Thanks for your input!
That is exactly what I told Ron I wanted. It appears he knows his stuff. I've been lurking here for quite some time reading up on them and needless to say I'm very impressed. A lot of guys are telling me to buy new instead of having mine redone. I believe I'll be happy with what they have to offer. My 1/4 now is only 13.3 @101 so maybe I can break into that 12.0 catagory.
Thanks for your input!
I dropped a full second from my old Z4 cammed setup. I susp[ect you will crack into the 11s.
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BLUFF
AI provide great bang for the buck IE quality performance for your hard earned cash.
Ron and Phil wont let you down, I know some of the guys on CF with AI packages and they are happy too.
I currently have the AI 200s, AI ported intake and an AI cam thats more agressive than what your choosing. However, most folks are not as big an adrenaline junky as I am.
I'm satisfied enough that I'm on my second AI package:
Current combo 355 with little more than 12 to 1 compression, 6" rods, EM 1 3/4" primary LTs, 58 MM TB, AI 200s, ported intake, Ed Wright tuning, 30lbhr SVOs, Walbro 255 with racetronix wiring, 3500 vig, upgraded 4l60E (rebuilt by local shop with great rep), D44 rear with 3.45s, lowered and full Energy suspension poly bushings etc and etc $$$$
As for going with bigger cam and stock short block I ran a big cam (not a big as current cam) with AI 190s and it ran great. But I ended up losing a piston, I beleive it was due to the tune. So second go around I went with ED WRIGHT and like Ron and Phil, Ed has continued to take care of me, well after the check was cashed.
Mike
AI provide great bang for the buck IE quality performance for your hard earned cash.
Ron and Phil wont let you down, I know some of the guys on CF with AI packages and they are happy too.
I currently have the AI 200s, AI ported intake and an AI cam thats more agressive than what your choosing. However, most folks are not as big an adrenaline junky as I am.
I'm satisfied enough that I'm on my second AI package:
Current combo 355 with little more than 12 to 1 compression, 6" rods, EM 1 3/4" primary LTs, 58 MM TB, AI 200s, ported intake, Ed Wright tuning, 30lbhr SVOs, Walbro 255 with racetronix wiring, 3500 vig, upgraded 4l60E (rebuilt by local shop with great rep), D44 rear with 3.45s, lowered and full Energy suspension poly bushings etc and etc $$$$
As for going with bigger cam and stock short block I ran a big cam (not a big as current cam) with AI 190s and it ran great. But I ended up losing a piston, I beleive it was due to the tune. So second go around I went with ED WRIGHT and like Ron and Phil, Ed has continued to take care of me, well after the check was cashed.
Mike
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Your rear gear ratio is key though. With that setup you'll still be able to run a pretty mild gear for optimum 1/4mi performance.
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Weav's
your new set up will require a new tune....My $.02 is Ed Wright @ Fastchip. In addition you may need larger injectors and upgrade your fuel pump to a 255 LPH.
A FP gauge and data logging will confirm if those items are needed but they are common to heads/cam mods
On head/cam swaps "bugs" need to be worked out which is normal. You may even have to make adjustments to your TB but again those are easy if you have scan software to measure IAC & TPS counts.
Many report good things about AI so you should be in good hands.
Oiling....you might want to replace the OP drive shaft with a $12 ARP one and consider a stronger spring swap inside the stock OP. CapriceMgr can give you part #'s
your new set up will require a new tune....My $.02 is Ed Wright @ Fastchip. In addition you may need larger injectors and upgrade your fuel pump to a 255 LPH.
A FP gauge and data logging will confirm if those items are needed but they are common to heads/cam mods
On head/cam swaps "bugs" need to be worked out which is normal. You may even have to make adjustments to your TB but again those are easy if you have scan software to measure IAC & TPS counts.
Many report good things about AI so you should be in good hands.
Oiling....you might want to replace the OP drive shaft with a $12 ARP one and consider a stronger spring swap inside the stock OP. CapriceMgr can give you part #'s
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That should really be no problem. I had a 211/219 cam w/ my LPE ported LT4 heads/intake and was able to hit a 12.09 @ 115.5 and the car weighed 3750lbs.
Your rear gear ratio is key though. With that setup you'll still be able to run a pretty mild gear for optimum 1/4mi performance.
Your rear gear ratio is key though. With that setup you'll still be able to run a pretty mild gear for optimum 1/4mi performance.
Weav's
your new set up will require a new tune....My $.02 is Ed Wright @ Fastchip. In addition you may need larger injectors and upgrade your fuel pump to a 255 LPH.
A FP gauge and data logging will confirm if those items are needed but they are common to heads/cam mods
On head/cam swaps "bugs" need to be worked out which is normal. You may even have to make adjustments to your TB but again those are easy if you have scan software to measure IAC & TPS counts.
Many report good things about AI so you should be in good hands.
Oiling....you might want to replace the OP drive shaft with a $12 ARP one and consider a stronger spring swap inside the stock OP. CapriceMgr can give you part #'s
your new set up will require a new tune....My $.02 is Ed Wright @ Fastchip. In addition you may need larger injectors and upgrade your fuel pump to a 255 LPH.
A FP gauge and data logging will confirm if those items are needed but they are common to heads/cam mods
On head/cam swaps "bugs" need to be worked out which is normal. You may even have to make adjustments to your TB but again those are easy if you have scan software to measure IAC & TPS counts.
Many report good things about AI so you should be in good hands.
Oiling....you might want to replace the OP drive shaft with a $12 ARP one and consider a stronger spring swap inside the stock OP. CapriceMgr can give you part #'s
Yeah, I'm finding out about bugs......the supporting parts to a swap like this can add up really fast
I have a Tech 1 so I'll be fine with all the fuel numbers.
Thanks for the heads up on the shaft and spring. I'll see if I can get up with 96capricemgr. Danny.......right?
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i went with their 226/234 cam and the 190cc heads. i did rebuild the bottom end and i have no intake work done at all. the car pulls great through the whole power band and is very responsive. any way you go you wont go wrong running these guys stuff they are great to deal with