95ls1formula

So i am wanting to delete the air pump system and the egr system. At the moment i have the egr block off plates and i think everything else i need. I am also throwing code 29 which is for the air pump and trying to get rid of it. Also i kinda want to get rid of the emissions system but idk how hard it will be. If anybody can help me that would be appeciated. thanks

The vehicle is also a 97 lt1 trans am.

SPRAYED Z

iTrader: (4)

Firstly, remove the air pump and all hoses attached and crossover pipe under the oil pan. Then the vacuum line, remove that as well going to it. Hide the harness or clip it!
Egr can be removed and the air tube on the header to the intake. Plug both of them and remove the vacuum line on the egr and plug the port on the intake. But you will need a tune to edit out the ses light from NOT having a egr anymore.

95ls1formula

Yea i am already throwing a secondary air injection code for some reason.

Hawk40

i removed my air stuff today....everything except the crossover pipe. i dont see any way to get this thing out in one piece without cutting it. as far as i can see their is only one bracket on the driver side holding this pipe in place, but there is also a tab on the pass side that the pipe rests on..started to take a sawsall to it but left it for now. anyone know the trick to getting this pipe out in one piece ?

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

why do you care if its in 1 piece? I think I cut mine in 3pieces

95ls1formula

somebody needs to do a write up on this stuff.

Hawk40

haha well i keep thinking that one day i might want to make this car pass emission testing..like if i sell it

Noah's95z28

iTrader: (7)

Yeah I tried taking mine out in one piece but ended up getting pissed and just cut it.

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

oo do you have to pass the sniffer test? yeah I cant imagine trying to get that tube back in there, I had my heads off when I took it off and there was still no way it was coming out in one piece.

Hawk40

i guess it doesnt hurt anything to leave it in there..its not like it weighs much..just looks like crap in the engine compartment

ps..somebody said to get 5/8" plugs for the air fittings on my headers and they are bigger than 5/8s..i didnt feel like going back to home depot (20 mi from my house) so i got a couple of old bolts with big washers and jb welded them into the air fittings...im gonna let it sit overnight before i crank it..but i'm hopin the jb will be fine with the heat

95ls1formula

thanks for the info. would still like to see some pictures of this

95ls1formula

anybody else have info?

bigchevyman24

iTrader: (2)

shbox.com has some good info, but not really a write-up. I'm probably gonna try to do one when I remove everything as I'm tired of hearing "just start doing it and you'll see". Seems no one actually knows where to start and what to take off/pick up from the parts store.

I know you will need some vacuum plugs/covers for the vacuum lines you take off the intake. And also a plug for the air intake

Black96transam

i had to unbolt my a/c, power steering, alt bracket and slide it foward then twist the crossover pipe and pull it down on the left side then twist and and pull the right side out.. its tricky.. but with a lil patience and the right tools it will come out in one piece

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

JB Weld will break down over time under the heat of the headers and the bolts will come loose.

93-95 use M22 pipe plugs - 96+ use M18 plugs (typically NOT found at Home Depot).

The fitting on the intake ducting uses a 5/8" vacuum cap.

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

theres nothing to it really, just remove all the crap. the only things I had to buy were the EGR block off plates which I got off ebay. remove the EGR pipe, valve and solenoid. put the plug into the egr fitting on the PS header. clean the surfaces and install the block off plates. I seperated the vacuum line that goes to the solenoid then the valve and put a bolt that fit really snug into the open end. remove the AIR pump, bracket, bleed valves, hoses and cross over tube(easiest way is to cut it once or twice and then move it around till the bracket breaks off). I took the check valve fittings off the headers then put about ~10pennies into each fitting on the headers and put the check valves back on real tight. and thats it, only thing I have left to do is get some properly shaped hoses to run down under then engine and out of sight. once I do that no cop or inspection tech will ever notice theres no emission junk in my car

slow96z

iTrader: (12)

I might be the person you're thinking of but what I said is get 5/8 brass caps, not plugs. I couldn't find a plug the right size for the holes so i got a cap and left the fitting in the manifolds.