cam questions...
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 247
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From: Sacramento
cam questions... ok so i got a 1994 z28 camaro with... full coldair,march pullys,373.s,bmr controll arms,bmr panhard bar,and pacetter coated long tubes with ory,otvc 8.5mm wires, and i was wonder what would be the best cam to get for my set up i still got stock heads not ported or anything and i was wonder what cam and rockers would be the best power for my set up with out having to flycutting my pistons or anything..and what would give the best power shifting at about 6 grand.... thanks dont realy car about the emmisions part..
ok so i got a 1994 z28 camaro with... full coldair,march pullys,373.s,bmr controll arms,bmr panhard bar,and pacetter coated long tubes with ory,otvc 8.5mm wires, and i was wonder what would be the best cam to get for my set up i still got stock heads not ported or anything and i was wonder what cam and rockers would be the best power for my set up with out having to flycutting my pistons or anything..and what would give the best power shifting at about 6 grand.... thanks dont realy car about the emmisions part..
Also, p/v clearance is hardly ever an issue on these motors (especially on a stock motor) so flycutting/aftermarket pistons is only necessary in extreme cases.
Most cams like to be shifted slightly past 6k RPM, btw.
I agree with RamAir, read the sticky and it will give you a good idea about what the cams offer and what compromises are involved with each one. Piston-to valve clearance is not gonna be a problem unless the cam is installed a tooth off. These LT1's are blessed with TONS of clearance.
The CC 503 is a great choice for what most people want. Good drivabilty, slight lope at idle, pulls to 6200 RPM on stock heads with no problem. No need going larger unless you plan on shifting at 6500 RPM (or higher) and are willing to lose some low/mid range power.
Least expensive way out would be to get these parts . . .
Bullet VS 2700 single springs (work with stock retainers, locks, locators, etc) from Bullet Racing Cams (662-893-8022).
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66915
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-21407200/
Lloyd
The CC 503 is a great choice for what most people want. Good drivabilty, slight lope at idle, pulls to 6200 RPM on stock heads with no problem. No need going larger unless you plan on shifting at 6500 RPM (or higher) and are willing to lose some low/mid range power.
Least expensive way out would be to get these parts . . .
Bullet VS 2700 single springs (work with stock retainers, locks, locators, etc) from Bullet Racing Cams (662-893-8022).
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66915
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-21407200/
Lloyd
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento
ok my comp wnet down for a little bit...so i was looking at the cam stick and i found this cam that i like...it turns out to be the same one he just posted about..lol and he already shpowed me the pushrods and rrs..so that anwsers most of these questions..but would a mail order tune work for these or could i get more power from a.... and will it what is cam surge exatly? thanks
cc503: (224/230 .537/.544 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
Widely known for being the biggest cam you want to run on a stock headed car without sacrificing usable power and drivability. Features Comp’s relatively newer XE (Xtreme Energy) lobes for increased top-end power. Has a very strong mid-range with strong top-end power without much if any loss in the low-end. Similar to the GM846 and good for a solid 10-15hp/tq throughout over the “Hot Cam”, cc305 etc. May have some cam surge, depends how good the tune is.
Pass Emissions?: No, requires tuning to pass
Shift Point for Maximum Performance: 6200-6400rpm
Idle Characteristics: Choppy Idle
M6; Require Gears?: No
A4; Require Stall?: 2500+ Stall Speed
cc503: (224/230 .537/.544 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
Widely known for being the biggest cam you want to run on a stock headed car without sacrificing usable power and drivability. Features Comp’s relatively newer XE (Xtreme Energy) lobes for increased top-end power. Has a very strong mid-range with strong top-end power without much if any loss in the low-end. Similar to the GM846 and good for a solid 10-15hp/tq throughout over the “Hot Cam”, cc305 etc. May have some cam surge, depends how good the tune is.
Pass Emissions?: No, requires tuning to pass
Shift Point for Maximum Performance: 6200-6400rpm
Idle Characteristics: Choppy Idle
M6; Require Gears?: No
A4; Require Stall?: 2500+ Stall Speed
a mail order tune from a reputable tuning company will get you close enough and eliminate 90% of the problems that a stock tune would have and still be better than the average 'local" shop doing a dyno tune.
"hands on" tuning is always better if the tuner understands the tuning equipment and is good. It uis just sometimes tough to know whop is good and who is not since they all consider themselves to be good and charge accordingly, lol.
Most will be better off having a mail order tune to get them close and then hands on tuning to fine tune drivability, etc. have the tuner ride with you and make the car show him the problem you are having while he is data logging the car so he can find what is wrong. If he is not willing to do this, find someone else.
If you have good plg wires, a clean MAF, TPS adjusted correct, no exhaust leaks, good O2 sensors, etc, etc, you will be happy with a mail order tune and not ahve any surge.
cam surge is when the car actually bucks and surges a lil at low RPM. This is usually due to one of the problems I mentioned above. Some datalogs to see what the computer is doing and see what all of the sensors mentioned above are seeing will let you find the problem.
Hands on tuning (by a skilled tuner) will allow all of the problems to be gone with this cam.
Lloyd
"hands on" tuning is always better if the tuner understands the tuning equipment and is good. It uis just sometimes tough to know whop is good and who is not since they all consider themselves to be good and charge accordingly, lol.
Most will be better off having a mail order tune to get them close and then hands on tuning to fine tune drivability, etc. have the tuner ride with you and make the car show him the problem you are having while he is data logging the car so he can find what is wrong. If he is not willing to do this, find someone else.
If you have good plg wires, a clean MAF, TPS adjusted correct, no exhaust leaks, good O2 sensors, etc, etc, you will be happy with a mail order tune and not ahve any surge.
cam surge is when the car actually bucks and surges a lil at low RPM. This is usually due to one of the problems I mentioned above. Some datalogs to see what the computer is doing and see what all of the sensors mentioned above are seeing will let you find the problem.
Hands on tuning (by a skilled tuner) will allow all of the problems to be gone with this cam.
Lloyd
Last edited by NightTrain66; Feb 12, 2010 at 11:21 AM.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento
a mail order tune from a reputable tuning company will get you close enough and eliminate 90% of the problems that a stock tune would have and still be better than the average 'local" shop doing a dyno tune.
"hands on" tuning is always better if the tuner understands the tuning equipment and is good. It uis just sometimes tough to know whop is good and who is not since they all consider themselves to be good and charge accordingly, lol.
Most will be better off having a mail order tune to get them close and then hands on tuning to fine tune drivability, etc. have the tuner ride with you and make the car show him the problem you are having while he is data logging the car so he can find what is wrong. If he is not willing to do this, find someone else.
If you have good plg wires, a clean MAF, TPS adjusted correct, no exhaust leaks, good O2 sensors, etc, etc, you will be happy with a mail order tune and not ahve any surge.
cam surge is when the car actually bucks and surges a lil at low RPM. This is usually due to one of the problems I mentioned above. Some datalogs to see what the computer is doing and see what all of the sensors mentioned above are seeing will let you find the problem.
Hands on tuning (by a smilled tuner) will allow all of the problems to be gone with this cam.
Lloyd
"hands on" tuning is always better if the tuner understands the tuning equipment and is good. It uis just sometimes tough to know whop is good and who is not since they all consider themselves to be good and charge accordingly, lol.
Most will be better off having a mail order tune to get them close and then hands on tuning to fine tune drivability, etc. have the tuner ride with you and make the car show him the problem you are having while he is data logging the car so he can find what is wrong. If he is not willing to do this, find someone else.
If you have good plg wires, a clean MAF, TPS adjusted correct, no exhaust leaks, good O2 sensors, etc, etc, you will be happy with a mail order tune and not ahve any surge.
cam surge is when the car actually bucks and surges a lil at low RPM. This is usually due to one of the problems I mentioned above. Some datalogs to see what the computer is doing and see what all of the sensors mentioned above are seeing will let you find the problem.
Hands on tuning (by a smilled tuner) will allow all of the problems to be gone with this cam.
Lloyd
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Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 247
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From: Sacramento
ok so now iam a bout to get my cam and rockers and stuff but i was wondering if theres anything else that is needed...iam order the cam,the rockers and the pushrods..the cc503 cam then the rockers and pushrods lyyd recrmended and the springs he reccomended..i was wondering anything else i need? i already found a good tuner...thanks
also i was wondering with these springs were gunna be strong enough for the cam and stuff just dont want it to end up breaking anytime soon..
also i was wondering with these springs were gunna be strong enough for the cam and stuff just dont want it to end up breaking anytime soon..
Last edited by 94maro; Feb 10, 2010 at 02:05 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento
I agree with RamAir, read the sticky and it will give you a good idea about what the cams offer and what compromises are involved with each one. Piston-to valve clearance is not gonna be a problem unless the cam is installed a tooth off. These LT1's are blessed with TONS of clearance.
The CC 503 is a great choice for what most people want. Good drivabilty, slight lope at idle, pulls to 6200 RPM on stock heads with no problem. No need going larger unless you plan on shifting at 6500 RPM (or higher) and are willing to lose some low/mid range power.
Least expensive way out would be to get these parts . . .
Bullet VS 2700 single springs (work with stock retainers, locks, locators, etc) from Bullet Racing Cams (662-893-8022).
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66915
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-21407200/
Lloyd
The CC 503 is a great choice for what most people want. Good drivabilty, slight lope at idle, pulls to 6200 RPM on stock heads with no problem. No need going larger unless you plan on shifting at 6500 RPM (or higher) and are willing to lose some low/mid range power.
Least expensive way out would be to get these parts . . .
Bullet VS 2700 single springs (work with stock retainers, locks, locators, etc) from Bullet Racing Cams (662-893-8022).
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66915
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-21407200/
Lloyd
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento
thank you..one more thing i cant find the cam..i was wondering if summit carrys it..the cc503 i was looking at theres and see that theres are all from 1.5 rrs and the ones that are on here are from 1.6s and its throwing the numbers off or thwey just dont carey the cam??
if your worried about springs why don't you get the Patriot gold spring kit
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...oduct&pid=7343
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...oduct&pid=7343
No its the same cam it just the lift actually increases with the 1.6 rrs. But you can use any size
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento
ok i think this is it just wanna make sure this is the right cam?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-503-8/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-503-8/
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-503-8/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66915
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-21407200/
Bullet VS 2700 single springs (work with stock retainers, locks, locators, etc) from Bullet Racing Cams (662-893-8022).gotta call and see unless someone gots a link to these cuz i cant find them....
ok so is there anything else i need for this cam swap?does everything match up and all gunna clear everything? thanks for the input..
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66915
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-21407200/
Bullet VS 2700 single springs (work with stock retainers, locks, locators, etc) from Bullet Racing Cams (662-893-8022).gotta call and see unless someone gots a link to these cuz i cant find them....
ok so is there anything else i need for this cam swap?does everything match up and all gunna clear everything? thanks for the input..
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
i'd go with the CC503, it's an awesome cam, makes good power from the bottom to the top. I run this cam with stock heads and a full Comp valve train and it's gone 12.0's with a 4l60 and 3400 Vig. With the right tune you'll idle perfect and have awesome street ability.
i'd go with the CC503, it's an awesome cam, makes good power from the bottom to the top. I run this cam with stock heads and a full Comp valve train and it's gone 12.0's with a 4l60 and 3400 Vig. With the right tune you'll idle perfect and have awesome street ability.
