SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I wish I had the smarts to make 480 to 490rwhp.

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

Look at this crap, im gone for over a week and come back and this thread is now here and people are bashing the hell out of him......As of right now I dont believe it either, I had just finished together a 396 with a.i heads/int. big ole cam and other mods and didnt make 475 to the wheels. But if you did, post some vids already

LT1nitrouZ

A) MONEY


B) ALOT of people are hardheaded and wont listen to people that have done it. They insist on doing it their own way, and end up putting together a combo that doesnt work.




If you have 15 thousand dollars laying around, and are willing to listen then its not that hard.

mdacton

iTrader: (3)

I got it....

tell me what to do all ears open. I spent that this year easily....... tell me something

LT1nitrouZ

A) I did'nt say listen to me. I said listen to people that have done it.

B) If it was me I would find a set of either Trickflow or AFR 210 cc heads, then I would call A.I. and get them to port them and grind me a solid roller cam. I would then get in touch with your local speed shop and order an after market stand alone E.F.I. system that they have used before and are familar with. A big stuff 3 system is popular at a shop here, but I have never had 15 thousand laying around hence no need for a stand alone efi system so not an expert, you will need an MSD crank trigger with the Big Stuff system. After this a long list of small yet necassary component including rocker arms, pushrods, lifters, blah blah blah. A million ways to go with a bottom end, be creative... (I would go with the 4.060 bore to unshroud the combustion chamber a little, and a 3.875 stroke)then find a reputable machine shop to do the block work and get your short block. Gonna need to upgrade that fuel system because 576 hp will never be enough (then again a 255 lph pump will suffice with 46ish pound injectors) then you will need a stand alone fuel system for the nitrous kit. so on and so forth blah blah blah... TON of other stuff that isnt listed, but cant believe i spent that much time typing to respond to you but I am stopping now.

You will need another 15 thousand dollars for the supporting drivetrain mods required to make all this reliable as well. So dont think you are done spending yet... or you can save the money for drivetrain and just roll race if you are a homosexual.

A

transam001

iTrader: (3)

i have a friend on here with a stock bottem end. ported stock casting and a roller cam.. that really that big.. car still has ac. he made 458 to the wheel . its a 6 speed. full boltons of corse..

KeysZ28

iTrader: (1)

[quote=LT1nitrouZ;12241818]A) ]
or you can save the money for drivetrain and just roll race if you are a homosexual.


Thats why I love this site amongst all the hating and fighting there is always a comment like this that makes all the fighting worth reading

mdacton

iTrader: (3)

Good thing I didnt listen to you.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SxBSuVJHr4


I's sorry I need to excuse myself, fraggle rock is about to come on.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Larrys 396 NA Stock ported head, LE HR cam w 4l60e and Dana S60 just laid down 460 rwhp.

LT1nitrouZ

never told you to listen to me...

Do you have a carburetor on that car?

1slo_camaro

iTrader: (2)

Bullshit!!!

great421

iTrader: (1)

Originally Posted by transam001: "I have a friend on here with a stock bottem end. ported stock casting and a roller cam.. that really that big.. car still has ac. he made 458 to the wheel. its a 6 speed. full boltons of course..."

Originally Posted by 1slo_camaro: Bullshit!!!

We are so quick to cry BS, but I maintain that HP is Irrelevant!

Torque is Real – HP is simply a calculation, a derivative - nothing more, nothing less.

(Forgive me, but us “Baby Blue” Pontiac guys have been talking torque since we were knee-high to a 61 Catalina 421 Super Duty!)

Recall: HP = (Torque X RPM) / 5252

Therefore, 300 ft-lbs @ 5252 RPM = 300 HP; nobody questions that an LT1 can make that.

However, that same 300 ft-lbs @ 7,500 RPM = 428 HP (using good rods and a balanced ***’y).

And 300 ft-lbs @ 9,000 RPM (as some of the NHRA LT1 “stock” big boys run thru the traps at) gets you 514 HP!

It’s all dependent on the measured RPM, so even a “stock” (Please NOTE the quotations!) LT1 can make 500 HP – you’ve just gotta’ spin the sucker into the 5 digit (i.e. - 10K RPM) range!

BTW – Don’t think it can’t be done either; my father has an all aluminum 427 cu in BBC (Dyno’d at 758 HP) that the engine builder suggested, as a ‘normal’ way to launch it, that he spin it to 9,000 RPM and drop the clutch! He added that the thing would require rebuilding every season (i.e. – every 200 runs) with that particular technique, but it could be done.

My pop asked at what RPM to launch it at if he wanted it to “last forever”, and the builder stated 8,000 RPM launches would make it last forever – he’s been at it now for 20 years and hasn’t had the engine opened up yet; so it can indeed be done.

(I can already here the cry of "BS" from the KIAs who have NEVER launched a 4,200 lb car and had the wheels lift 3 feet off the ground! Ask my pop; He'll tell you: it's a Rush!)

Yes, I know Apples-to-Oranges, but the same principals apply – Build it Strong, build it Right, build it ONCE!

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Your reasoning is kind of like how a fat girl says she can easily become a super model.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I am making 585 ish HP at the flywheel now, 600 depending on who you ask.

You dont need a BS3, crank trigger and all that crap. I am doing it on stock ECM and opti spark.

I have seen a single 255 pump make 680 rwhp on the dyno.With stock lines.
So you dont need that.

Why a 4.060 bore? Just gonna waste a rebuild for the sake of a few cfm. Not me.


Seems like you are another who "reads" alot but has yet to make anything fast.

harner

iTrader: (16)

Still waiting for vids from Op

LT1nitrouZ

I enjoy how most everyone here spends more time bashing someone than helping anyone. There are like 10 or 15 people in this section that are helpful everyone else is here to advertise or call bullshit. If anyone here thinks I give two ***** what yall think about me you would be sorely mistaken.

I never said you NEEDED big stuff 3, but if you have 15 thousand laying around why not get rid of some of the unreliability of the opti spark??? makes sense to me. And I LITERALLY said all you would need was a 255 pump and injectors... said I would need a stand alone system for the nitrous. And you answered your own question about the bore... a few more CFM. A new block is CHEAP not that much of an extra expense in a rebuild.... also this thread is about a 408 so obviously an LT1 block can be bored larger than a 4.060


and another note... If a 10.58 is your best pass... I have been faster than you. Just not in this car..... yet.

LT1nitrouZ

I have said nothing other than 576 HP is fairly straight forward if you have the money. AND IT IS. I dont see how that is dumb reasoning.

I actually owned a 7xx HP LT1 motor. There are pictures on here somewhere. I am aware of the bullshit that will be called on this, but its not.

It had Trickflow 18 degree heads converted for use with reverse flow cooling (along with plates to make the 18 degree heads work), it had a super victor intake with a dominator on top, it had been converted to a distributor. HUGE solid roller cam, Jessel shaft mounted rockers, Callies crank, rods, and JE pistons with 14:1 compression. Sure it was a race car motor, but still made 700+ hp on motor with a 396.



Let the flaming begin

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

At what rpm?

1slo_camaro

iTrader: (2)

not calling bullshit. but when you convert it to a dist. carb and all that. you have a SBC. bc if im not mistaken when it really comes down to it. LT1s get limited because of the Optijunk can only hold so much.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Fourteen nuns walk into a plumbing store. Which one leaves with veal parmigiana and a side order of Thursday?