CARFREAKS

iTrader: (14)

Ok guys this is my basic Build. For those of you who know I got my Engine back and blew the head gasket my first race. I'm trying to look over my whole set up to make sure I dont have any more engine problems. Please feel free to tell me if there is anything else I "NEED" to buy. Larger oil pan or Better pump anything that is a must!

"LT1" 383 STROKER rebuilt long block, with all NEW parts. The block machining included: Bore and hone cylinders- grind for stroker clearance- align hone mains. The cylinder heads recieve all new guides and positive seals, with a 3-angle finish on the 2.00"x1.55" valves and 100# springs.

The "EAGLE" cast steel crank and Forgerd H-beam rods, are balanced, allowing the use of factory flywheel and front pulley! JE forged pistons SpeedPro moly rings. The camshaft providing 375hp and 410ft.lbs.torque, is an LT4 HOT CAM, spec's are (212/218`@.050" with .490" lift). The roller lifters are installed, and valvetrain preset, for quiet operation. New oil pump, Stage 2 Head porting. "gasket matched" ARP main Studs. 11:1 compression Ratio.
58mTB 36lb injectors,Long tube headers, Custom tune.K&N CAI MSD Blaster coil, Msd optispark, Msd wires Lightly built trans, Monster 2,300-2,500 stall,175 wet Nos. High flow fuel pump 255lph & inline pump from NOS kit. NGK V power TR5 plugs gapped at 35.

Do I need RR if so what ones? Specs please! What gains would I get? What head gasket? Should I use ARP head studs or just ARP bolts? And yes I know the Rear end will blow at some point I will do that next year... I'm looking at Engine and bolt on stuff right now. Thank you for the help!

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

Im not knocking you or your build just wondering why you are going threw all the trouble of building a forged 383 stroker getting the heads worked and the going with a LT4 cam. There are a ton of better options out there. I put the link in your other thread to LE. Take a look at his cams, Or better yet call him and tell him your set up and he will set you up with a cam that will work a lot better with your set up

Stroked96Bowtie

iTrader: (22)

What rockers are you using now? Always a good invenstment in your valve train to have a nice set of RR. It will also help you get more lift out of your cam, so you should pick up a little more power. What pushrods are you running? Should have hardened or chromoly at minimum. For head gaskets, go with the MLS (Multi Layered Steel), you wont need another head gasket.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

I would be WAY more concerned with using an Eagle cast crank than the cam selection (which is still way too small - look into AI or LE custom grinds).

OP - the Eagle cast stuff has a recent history of grenading on a fairly frequent basis. Considering you'll end up with a fairly stout N/A motor and adding a 175 shot on top of that, I wouldn't expect the Eagle POS to stay in one piece for very long. Not to mention the fact you're using a cast crank with forged rods and pistons?

In short, DITCH the Eagle cast crank. You'll regret it if you don't, guaranteed.

CARFREAKS

iTrader: (14)

My wife hydro locked my last motor... So I bought this one because of budgit.
I figured for $2500 to have a forged engine 383 long block wasnt bad "I would spend that on just the cam's heads and intake if I sent them to LE." with a small cam it would be drivable and not suffer a huge mpg loss. and put a 175 -200 shot it should be good for around 400 hp motor about 600 with spray run high 10's low 11's all day and still be a cheap Daily driver... to keep up with the local street racers...

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

No way will you reach 400whp with a hotcam on a 383. I'd think more along the lines of ~330 or 340. On a 383 the hotcam is miniscule. Strokers need lots of lift and duration to fill the extra cylinder volume and the hotcam just won't cut it. There are much better grinds available.

Also, avoid the cast Eagle crank. Did I mention that yet?

Building a reliable 600HP sprayed 383 LT1 for $2500 is not realistic.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

CARFREAKS

iTrader: (14)

This is the first i have heard of this... How much HP can they take? what shot would I be safe using?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Honestly, I wouldn't even spray it.

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

You would have been better off building a stock bottom end or 355 and putting the money in the top end

Stroked96Bowtie

iTrader: (22)

Guys, would ya quit bashing the guys build. There are some things, if it was my build, I would have done diff also. We dont always have that luxury.

CARFREAKS

iTrader: (14)

I'm thinking of buying these from a member on here today would it be a good choice?
1.6/1.65 roller rockers with poly locks have all 16
7/16 arp rocker studs
Comp cams harden push rods stock length
comp cams guide plates

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Show me where we are bashing his build? He asked for advice in the beginning:

I'm trying to look over my whole set up to make sure I dont have any more engine problems. Please feel free to tell me if there is anything else I "NEED" to buy. Larger oil pan or Better pump anything that is a must!

No one is bashing anyone.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Good on everything except the pushrods. You won't know how long the pushrods need to be until you have everything mocked up. Assuming you use a thinner head gasket to bump compression, different lifters, etc., it's just worth it to measure twice, order once. You'll need a pushrod length checking tool.

CARFREAKS

iTrader: (14)

I'm saying Crank HP not wheel. it is also 11:1 comp

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Even then I still wouldn't use it. It's a risk I just wouldn't take.

11:1 compression is also fairly low for an LT1. Aluminum heads and reverse flow cooling allow for much higher SCR/DCR. My 383 is around 12.5:1 SCR and 9.1:1 DCR. Runs on a mail-order tune on 93 octane with no knock retard.

Stroked96Bowtie

iTrader: (22)

He's looking for head gasket and valve train advise. He just built this motor on a 'budget' really think he's going to swap out the crank at this point?

common sense

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Perhaps you haven't experienced an Eagle cast crank snapping and the cost incurred to replace it. It'd be much cheaper to replace it now than later, especially when the risk of it taking out other parts is quite high.

He also doesn't state whether or not the motor is already built, whether it's out of the car, etc. I'm not trying to be a dick, just speaking from experience.

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

Im not bashing the guy as i said in my 1st post, it is his build just sounds like maybe he got some bad advice or he didn't know that with building a 383 he would need to go with a different set up to reach HIS goals. He wanted to be @ 400 HP. He can get there with his 383 easy with the right H/C set up. But he could have gotten there closer to his budget putting the cash in the top end instead of all the money into a 383 stroker. Yes he now has it and can always add things as he can afford them. If i read everything right he said he thought he would be well over 400 hp with just a good bottom end. I do have some fast race cars that i know a lot more about, My LT1 is just my toy that i use just to **** off my LS1 buddies. I didn't know much on how to make maximum power out of my LT1 so i asked a bunch of dumb ?'s to find . I still have a lot to learn but from people telling me on here and at the shops ive learned alot. So now i try to pass on what i have learned no matter how little i know

Stroked96Bowtie

iTrader: (22)

Ive seen those threads, latest from speed density. Everything in his motor was trashed, as caprice said, only thing that was still good was the intake. Makes me glad I dont have one in my motor