BOLO

iTrader: (40)

What tool are you guys using to install this back? Is there an alternative to the gm J tool that is so expensive? And I know the universal harmonic damper installer won't cut it, it's too short. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

JB_97ws6TA

iTrader: (6)

I used a bolt that would thread into the crank with a washer and a thrust bearing so I wouldn't mangle the hub while pulling it in

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

Where can I find this bolt? Grade 8, at least? About 7-8" in length?

JB_97ws6TA

iTrader: (6)

I actually had an extra crank bolt (same one that goes in the crank stock) and oiled up the snout real good, I worked it on by hand enough that I got it to grab a few threads and started pulling it on real easy until it bottomed out

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

I just tried to do it with the stock bolt tonight and either snapped or stripped it? It won't tighten up and won't come back out.


OP, I've heard of people doing it with 7/16" FINE thread allthread. Not the easiest stuff to find though.

shbox

You don't want to use a bolt. You want a threaded rod (high grade). Taper the end of the rod, so that is does not jam in the hole when bottomed out. Use a nut and washers (thrust washer is better) to pull it on. This is the same principle that the proper tool (Kent-Moore J-39046) uses to install the hub.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I've read and heard alot of people using a hammer or even a mini sledge and a 2X4 as an "install tool" to slip the crank hub onto the crank. For the sake of your crank thrust bearing and your crank snout threads while pulling the hub completely on, please do not do this.
Here's a link for a very effective, very cheap install tool which works extremely well.
http://members.***.net/gmarengo/Misc/Misc.htm

dirtynorth

i used a brass hammer and very gently tapped in back on switching sides everytime i tapped it.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Put it in the Oven for 20 min at 400*.

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

shbox, SS RRR, the merv , thank you. Man, let me tell you, I love this site. Boom, just like that, I have my problem answered, thanks to all of you---LS1tech member!

Trick450r

iTrader: (7)

i put some oil on the snout and used a small brass hammer crossing sides, went on like a dream.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I just tapped it on with a rubber mallet to get it started, then used the crank bolt to pull it on . Went on pretty damn easy, it was snug but I didnt get the feeling it was even close to stripping the snout threads, then just torqued it down.. dont see what the big deal is?

shbox

[QUOTE=AChotrod;12234677]I just tapped it on with a rubber mallet to get it started, then used the crank bolt to pull it on . Went on pretty damn easy, it was snug but I didnt get the feeling it was even close to stripping the snout threads, then just torqued it down.. dont see what the big deal is?[/QUOTE]

Read post #5.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

[QUOTE=shbox;12234868]Damn! Guess I was lucky. It was a bitch to get it off the old crank but it went on the new one pretty easy.

Spiers

iTrader: (7)

Not saying it's the best way but I also pulled mine on with the bolt. No problems here.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

The "poor boy's crank hub installer"

Get a 7-8" piece of 7/16 fine threaded rod stock (I believe it's 7/16-20). On one end, put 2 hex nuts, and tighten them together really tight. This is the end you hold steady with a hex wrench.


Thread another hex nut about 3" up from the other end of the rod. Then add 5-6 oiled-up flat washers, because the crank hub is deep. Put a little "never-seize on the end of the crank to help the hub to slip on, and a dab of RTV into the hub's groove, to help prevent oil leakage.


Gently center the hub on the crank. Then thread the rod into the crank. Go in about 1/2". Use two hex wrenches, one to hold the end that's double nutted, and the other to turn the nut that's with the flat washers. Keep threading the second nut down, pushing the hub in place, until it tightens up. Remove the threaded rod and install the crank bolt. Torque the bolt to 65 ft./lbs.

Relax and have a beer..........

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

^^Pretty much the same concept as a Power Steering Pully Kit..

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

You have got to be kidding...

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

No, I'm not kidding! There are some hubs, not OE LT1 hubs, that have a groove for the key in the crank to engage in. This groove extends all the way out to the end of the hub, therefore oil CAN make it's way through there.

I didn't invent this idea, I read it in an engine assembly instruction. I have a Fluidampr pulley on my car, and it has the groove I'm referring to. I put a DAB, not half a tube of RTV in the groove. The key stock, since it fits tightly in the groove, pushed the RTV to the outer edge of the groove as I pressed on the pulley, and prevented any chance of oil leakage.

ADM

Mine also had a dab of RTV around the seal. When I removed the hub, the crankshaft was keyed!