Hmm should I go SR???
09-21-2009, 01:18 PM
#42
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I disagree, you will always have more control of valve events at all point of contact on a solid roller. Will it be worth it for the OP? probly not. Is he going to play with cam timing lash etc to get the most out of it? Probly not. He wants something to throw in and easy....
FYI I would like the world to know I was joking with SSRRR, we are very close friends and BFF's we grew up together and rode tricycles together, I love him like you love a dog.
FYI I would like the world to know I was joking with SSRRR, we are very close friends and BFF's we grew up together and rode tricycles together, I love him like you love a dog.
09-21-2009, 01:49 PM
#43
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I aint fired up LMAO, I like seeing you crack on everyone but have the same knowlwdge or less than most of the ones that HAVE a fast car and have tried a few things.
So, in order for me to become credible, like you I'll have to rebuild my engine twice? Let me know. I'll see what I can do.
09-21-2009, 02:49 PM
#44
If it goes static above 7000 rpm that isn't really a limitation for most. My fuel and timing is pretty much the same 7000 rpm and up. If you are optimized up to 7000, you will probably be a little rich over 7000, but not enough to make a ton of difference.
09-21-2009, 03:14 PM
#45
I dont know If you have followed my car or build but there is nothing half *** about it. I bought this thing basically bone stock(had a cat back) a yr ago and have been through just about every single part on the car, with no plans to stop anytime soon. Plus I love wrenching on it and it will give me something to do.
Fastfatboy,
I only have a little 355, so Im sure I would need to spin past 6500 to get what I want out of the set up. Hell my HR makes pk HP at 6400
09-21-2009, 03:38 PM
#47
No need. The valve train is stable. Valve adjustment has remained true, valve train components examined closely after every adjustment and power remains smooth all the way to peak and beyond.
So the new course is to deflect and whine? So, in order for me to become credible, like you I'll have to rebuild my engine twice? Let me know. I'll see what I can do.
So the new course is to deflect and whine?
So, in order for me to become credible, like you I'll have to rebuild my engine twice? Let me know. I'll see what I can do.Funny thats not what you said in another post on a solid roller, you said you have had to adjust them every 2000 miles or so. SO which is it?
SEE HERE.........Posted by SS RRR
I check valves ever two or so thousand miles and have found the lash to be a bit more than I like so I run through them. Once this is done a few times it takes no time to adjust valves and I don't feel it's a hindrance.
If you have to adjust that much after the initial adjustment, you got something going on, parts are wearing, geometry problem, something.
You reckon the reason mine HAVENT needed to be adjusted AT ALL in the last 3500 miles is the quality parts I have? SHaft rockers and such? You know, the stuff I dont need......And I have beat the **** out of this car the last 3000 miles.
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 09-21-2009 at 03:50 PM.
09-21-2009, 03:48 PM
#48
If it goes static I don't see an issue. My junk likes to be short shifted, so the only time it really spends over about 7200 is in third. The old GEN 6 DFI would go static at 7000. I never had any issues with it. Of course, that is N/A. I don't have a clue about fuel demand with NOS or FI at high rpm.
09-21-2009, 04:42 PM
#52
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What part of this:BTW, before you did any weight reduction, what was your best ET and MPH? Something like mid 11's at 124?
Also, should I worry because I am not running your claim of 30psi at hot idle?
09-21-2009, 04:48 PM
#53
More guessing... What part of this:
do you not understand? You should see the valve sweep. There's nothing wrong with the geometry. If there was it would have shown a problem by now. You may beat the **** out of yours at 6500, but I beat the **** out of mine up to 7200. With the more experience I get with adjusting the valves the longer the adjustment has lasted.
BTW, before you did any weight reduction, what was your best ET and MPH? Something like mid 11's at 124?
Also, should I worry because I am not running your claim of 30psi at hot idle?
What part of this:do you not understand? You should see the valve sweep. There's nothing wrong with the geometry. If there was it would have shown a problem by now. You may beat the **** out of yours at 6500, but I beat the **** out of mine up to 7200. With the more experience I get with adjusting the valves the longer the adjustment has lasted.
BTW, before you did any weight reduction, what was your best ET and MPH? Something like mid 11's at 124?
Also, should I worry because I am not running your claim of 30psi at hot idle?
At 3600 lbs best is a 10.58@126
With a looser converter, the 4 holt tb and a retune, who knows?
Who said I shift mine at 6500? 1-2 shift is 6500, 2-3 is 6900, out the back door at 6800-7000 depending on DA.
09-21-2009, 04:58 PM
#54
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There are always gains to be had with a SR when compared to a HR. As far as parts NEEDED, just the lifters and springs. However it would be stupid to just do what is needed, esp. on a LTx engine. The geometry is inherently awful and shaft mounts would help with alignment, stability and maintenance. Bigger pushrods would help out immensely too so there is less deflection.
09-21-2009, 05:39 PM
#55
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Cool. At 3750lbs I have something to shoot for at least mph wise.
How about for a pushrod that is 6.125" long? It's either that or like I've stated, it all depends on the application. It is not just the LT1, but any SBC that has horrid valve train alignment/geometry issues.
I have learned I should listen to those who have no experience with SR applications using stud mount rockers on the internet instead of an engine builder who has been building LT1 engines for the last 10 years.
There are always gains to be had with a SR when compared to a HR. As far as parts NEEDED, just the lifters and springs. However it would be stupid to just do what is needed, esp. on a LTx engine. The geometry is inherently awful and shaft mounts would help with alignment, stability and maintenance. Bigger pushrods would help out immensely too so there is less deflection.
I have learned I should listen to those who have no experience with SR applications using stud mount rockers on the internet instead of an engine builder who has been building LT1 engines for the last 10 years.
09-21-2009, 07:23 PM
#59
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why do guys assume you need to turn 7k+ rpm with a solid roller?
I shift at 6500, does not run any faster if you turn it harder. Where does all this 7k and 8k talk come from? your not running super stockers here
I shift at 6500, does not run any faster if you turn it harder. Where does all this 7k and 8k talk come from? your not running super stockers here
09-21-2009, 07:31 PM
#60
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I'm going to try that with my ***** cam with 17" ZR1 wheels up front, 26X16" ET Streets on '97 wheels out back, SLP Level II susp, stock casting heads/intake, at a 3750lb race weight and see what happens...