LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Hmm should I go SR???

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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 09:51 PM
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Default Hmm should I go SR???

Someone tell me why not? How much gain could I get with the factory PCM.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 10:12 PM
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*Edit
Call lloyd! He stuff seems to be working well for ya now, Im sure he will get you dialed!

Last edited by kinglt-1; Sep 19, 2009 at 10:38 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 10:17 PM
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i donno man.. how much do you drive the car... they make more power.. but at the expense of constant maintenence.... i mean i put less than 3k miles a year on my car and i still opted for a HR.... just because of the maintence factor... im no expert on the subject... just giving my opinion... isnt your engine done already though??
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 10:18 PM
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Ok then tell me why? LOL!
I work on the car more than I drive it so readjusting the valves wont be an issue.
Is there real gains to be had under 7k?
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 10:22 PM
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my engine is done but I dont mind the work so its all good. Just thinking how to get everything out of what i have. I think it has alot of potential.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 10:30 PM
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I would think with your le2 heads/ intake and bein a m6, 440-450whp should be attainable. And do it all by 7k too.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 11:13 PM
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I remember you saving up a lot of money for the first big purchase on your car. Now it seems like you are ALWAYS spending money on it.

You either make a lot of money, or you have a GIANT credit card bill now.

None of my business but it seems like you got bit by the mod bug, it took over your body and killed your priorities bug.



I vote for spending more money on the car switching valvetrains.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 11:21 PM
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Well I sold 3 bad *** snowmobiles and trailer to get it started. Thats where a huge chunk came from. Other than that I make a decent living and Im single with no kids.
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 12:23 AM
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I was looking into the same thing and I don't really think it would be worth it.

You are going to have to update your WHOLE valvetrain and you won't be able to use any cheap parts. All of your parts are going to be expensive.

I may do a SR if I ever get a stripped down drag car but for now a HR will be enough for me to get the power I want.
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 12:24 AM
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I was thinking about that myself. There's a couple people here running sr cams and make great power. I want to know the differences between solid roller and hydraulic cams Which one is better suited for drag racing and/or daily driver...? What company makes those cams for the lt1? Sorry not trying to hijack the thread!
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 03:06 AM
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I'd say if you're looking to make more power everywhere, get a single plane setup and bigger HR spec'd for it.
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 12:42 PM
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Whats parts need changing? Springs, lifters and Cam? Maybe PRs? How much we talkin in Parts?
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by AChotrod
Whats parts need changing? Springs, lifters and Cam? Maybe PRs? How much we talkin in Parts?
good sr lifters are going to cost 5-600.00, Springs will be in the 3xx.00 range, Custom sr cam 350.00-400.00. I would say 1200.00 roughly without pushrods.
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 01:21 PM
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And if you go SR, you might as well go with shaft mount rockers. I brought this up a while back and it seems that there is a "gain" to be had with the shafty upgrade. Plus you can recover some of your cash, when you sell your HR parts.
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by flyinZ
And if you go SR, you might as well go with shaft mount rockers. I brought this up a while back and it seems that there is a "gain" to be had with the shafty upgrade. Plus you can recover some of your cash, when you sell your HR parts.
If you go with shaftmounts and a quality valvetrain you will only have to worry about valvetrain checkups every 30K miles or so. Plenty of reliability for a weekend warrior.

I was thinking about it but traffic is bad around here, and no matter what anyone says or what expensive lifters you use extended idle time in gear is horrible for solid roller setups.
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by transmaro93
but at the expense of constant maintenence.... i
You sure about that?
Originally Posted by flyinZ
And if you go SR, you might as well go with shaft mount rockers.
Why automatically go w/ shaft mount rockers if going SR?
I brought this up a while back and it seems that there is a "gain" to be had with the shafty upgrade. Plus you can recover some of your cash, when you sell your HR parts.
What kind of "gain"?
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 02:05 PM
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I think my rockers will be just fine. I really want to know is the cost worth the gains retaining the factory PCM and what kind of gains could there be?
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 03:38 PM
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Everyone I talked to about a SR said to upgrade to shaft mounted rockers. I was in the same boat as you man, building the 383 and trying to decide between a HR or SR cam.
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by DopdBrd
Everyone I talked to about a SR said to upgrade to shaft mounted rockers.
That doesn't mean it's true. It solely depends on the cam's operating rpm range. More aggressive cams that see over 7500 to 8000rpm shift points then sure, but there are milder SR cams (like mine) that use a 7200rpm shift point. I do not have shaft mounts and my valve train is stable and has been for the two years.
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 06:15 PM
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You dont NEED shaft mounts. BUT...anytime, with any cam that you can add valvetrain STABILITY, whether it be rockers, stud girdle, bigger pushrods, bigger studs. There is usually a gain in power.

You should ALWAYS buy the best valvetrain components you can afford, or save up and buy the best. No matter what the cam is. There is always more power to be had with better(IE lighter) components in any engine application.

In the instance of the valvetrain, lighter more stable parts mean better life, more power and less maintenance.

I have 6500 miles on my setup with not one problem, minimal maintenance.
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