FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

DOnt make excuses dude.... I predict you will be a FULL second slower at least. My first passes on this combo with two wounded pistons and a tight converter went 11.20@121@3800lbs

My cam is HUGE LMAO

Heres yours

248/250 .650/.610 on a 112lsa.

And mine

254/254 650/670 on a 108

LMAO, its SO much bigger! Dayuuum I dont know HOW I streeet drive this monster.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

From old wives tales regurgitated bullshit found on the net

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Sure you dont need to spin a 383+ that high, but what about us little motors?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

You tell me not to make excuses yet the very next sentence you excuse yourself. Interesting how that works.
So you say I'll run a 12.20?
Weren't you the one who called my cam a "***** cam..."?
You are forgetting those aftermarket heads/intake/TB/wheels and who knows what else. Hell I still have working AC.
I'm just shooting for a goal. You ran 122mph with your 3800lb car with what has already been listed. I'm going to try and run the same mph. I guess that means I'll be running a 12.0 @ 122?

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

11.50 MAX on the first outing, if your lucky. Mph? WHO CARES? Prolly 11.80 or 11.90 in some decent air, which you will probably wait till new years.

How much power to the wheels does it make? Or have you checked?

I got a streetcar, YOU got a streetcar. Your on motor, Im on motor. You got a 396, I got a 383. Im quicker, your slower...thats about it aint it?

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

If you're willing to do the maintenance, it can be well worth the effort.
Just make sure you do it right the first time.
Good springs, pushrods, lifters, shaft-mounts, proper tune.... the usual stuff.

Talk to Lloyd, discuss your HR and SR options.
It will become very clear what fits into your description of "worth the investment".
He and I have discussed the pros and cons on several occasions.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

He also has something else you wish you had, a 6-speed.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

If that makes you feel better then by all means.
I have a ***** cam. I am wanting to see if my ***** cam w/ what I listed will run at least 122mph. At this point I care about mph. MPH is power. I think you tried to lamely counter argue that point once before and failed miserably.
I am now curious to see if I can run the same MPH with my ***** cam with what I've done compared to what you've done.
I'll worry about ET's later.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Well...... if all Im gonna get is a 2 mph gain I could just get a bigger HR cam and do the same. If I can pick up say 10mph and keep it streetable, then its worth a look IMO.
In the mean time carry on!!!!

mdacton

iTrader: (3)

if it was only that simple.....lol

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Well I wish it was, but these guys are talkin a 2 mph gain from what I already run with 383+ motors with SR cams.
Larrys car runs 126 and mid 10s NA on a HR with a 396 & stock ported heads, Gizmos car runs damn close mph and straight flys ET wise with stock heads intake and TB.
If Im taking lessons its gonna be from them, guys that actually help and straight fly. Im totally willing to take my car to the extent of either of their cars.
Nothing wrong with SR set ups but Im not seeing the gains I was looking for when i can do it with a single cam swap

mdacton

iTrader: (3)

dont compare what gizmos car runs or how he makes power, his power curve etc. Its a purpose built class race car.

What is it you want to do? you want a race car or not? horsepower is about the easiest part of the equation when building a car...... you just figure out what you need and do it, making it work is the hard part. Its all just theory and math and equations...

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I want a RACE car that could be drivin on the weekends or to the track If I want to.
I dont give a **** about gas mileage or if it can bank 120 corners on the HWY. I think one of my very 1st posts on this site was I bought a 96 Formula WS6 with 27k and want the fastest 350/355 street car possible. Since then the car is far far from stock and the trans is about the only stock part left, but I snapped it in half 2 weeks b4 the shootout had FLT rebuild it and still made the Shootout. There is not one pc of the original motor in the car. Im very dedicated to it and the LTX.

mdacton

iTrader: (3)

Best advice I can give you is talk to real racers and get off the internet forums

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I wish it was that easy.
I want info that will make my **** fly! I dont know every LTXer in the area and for what it is so far my junk runs.
LE and Larry have helped a ton, and I take everything Gizmo says as some of the most helpfull info I can get. If I wasnt stuck on M6 my **** would already be running bottom
11s. Hell it may be close next time I hit the track.

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

Weight/traction will gain you more than switching to that solid roller IMO, long term money can be better spent.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

There aren't a whole lot of setups out there to compare since most everyone are too afraid to go solid roller, however you also really can't compare one setup to another if you don't know exactly what you are comparing it to.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Seems to me you run that head more than your car, get that pile to the track THEN run that head. If there is anyhting to brag about LOL.How long has it been together? And no track results?

Seems to me I run 126 mph with a VERY similar cam and I have a stalled auto.

What mph do you think mine would run with a six speed? 129? 130??
BTW before you leap, I DO NOT lock the converter at the track.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

AC, do some reading on solid rollers. They are not the high maintenance bitch they once were. Especially if you buy quality parts.

You will make more average power with a solid roller, average power makes a car fast. Especially a heavy(er) car.

Call Bret Bauer, Phil at Ai, Lloyd Elliot. Pick some ears of guys IN THE KNOW about what you want out of the cart vs your experience level.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Are you seriously comparing my setup to yours?