I keep cracking LT1 starters (picture) Please help.
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I keep cracking LT1 starters (picture) Please help.
I just completed my LT1 swap into my Chevelle. I used my old starter from the donor car and it ended up cracking at the nose. I bought a new starter and 5 starts later, it cracks again in the same place. The starter does not sound like it has a tight mesh. I should also mention that I bought an after market flexplate that was 153 tooth and SFI approved. The flex plate is not warped and the teeth look great. What could be causing my starters to crack. Take a look at the nose being grinded away by the flex plate.
(2 cracked starters in 2 days) - I'm stumped cause I thought newer starters do not need shims.
Here is a picture.
(2 cracked starters in 2 days) - I'm stumped cause I thought newer starters do not need shims.
Here is a picture.
#3
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What made this mark?
Based on the pic, it looks like the flex plate is to blame. I would mount a new starter, and turn over the motor manually and see if it makes the same mark. Shims may take care of the problem if it's that close. Did it make a high pitched whine? I think that may indicate that it's in need of a shim or two, but I wouldn't add too many.
Based on the pic, it looks like the flex plate is to blame. I would mount a new starter, and turn over the motor manually and see if it makes the same mark. Shims may take care of the problem if it's that close. Did it make a high pitched whine? I think that may indicate that it's in need of a shim or two, but I wouldn't add too many.
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Hopefully the company I bought it from will warranty the starter. I do not blame them if they don't. I'll measure the gap on the new starter.
Yes that mark was from the the flex plate. I wonder if my flex plate is slightly larger than my stock one. I know that they have the same number of teeth.
Yes that mark was from the the flex plate. I wonder if my flex plate is slightly larger than my stock one. I know that they have the same number of teeth.
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I was able to warranty the starter but now I'm wondering how to move the starter gear so I can measure the gap. I hooked up power to the small terminal but the wires get hot for me to hold it there too long. Any ideas?
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Ran into a problem like this years ago putting T5 beind a 406 SB, The bellhousing was the first issue but after a little research I found that the old starters from powerglide transmissions had iron nose cones. Most rebuilder might have something like this laying around if they have been in business for a while.
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I bought a shim kit and shimmed the starter so there was 1/8 of an inch between the ridge of the starter gear and the valley of the flexplate. I read on some other forum that this is a good way to measure it using a drill bit. If I went with the recommendation of shbox's diagram then the gear would barely engage the flexplate. I haven't tested it yet. I'm waiting on a friend so I can monitor the starter while he gives the ignition /starter a "tap."
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Ran into a problem like this years ago putting T5 beind a 406 SB, The bellhousing was the first issue but after a little research I found that the old starters from powerglide transmissions had iron nose cones. Most rebuilder might have something like this laying around if they have been in business for a while.
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I played around with the shims and I ended up using just one medium size shim and it seems to be working. I started the car 5 times and no broken starter yet. The starter gear still sticks but not as bad. The gear goes back in after the car is started. If the car does not start, then the gear sticks. The flexplate is new and I'm hoping the stickiness will go away when the flexplate wears.