This thread should help

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...on-sticky.html

 

Finally got it on the rollers.

347rwhp 367rwtq.

I'm content. The tuner said it was very smooth for a mail order tune. I had one small hiccup around 5200rpm. He thinks its tune related because he couldn't feel it at all.

 

I have thought more and more about pros and cons of a 5.3/6.0 swap and it just doesn't seem worth it to me.

So I will just dump more money into this car and motor

I have came to the realization this car is never going to sell. lol.

__________

Enough of that.

Although id like to see more, hp numbers are just numbers. Now that I have had it retuned (desensitize the knock and swap to a t56) i'd like to take it back to the track and see that my mph comes back normal.

I talked to Dr. Phil about the hiccup around 5300 and he really thinks its in the tune. He said he couldn't feel it when he had it on the dyno so he doesn't think its spark related. I asked about my rockers being out of adjustment he said we would be able to feel that as well. I asked who he suggested I get it dynotuned by and he said Alvin from pcm for less. I said he is in North Carolina isn't he? He said yup.... fml haha. He suggested I just drive the thing and enjoy it.

So I have been thinking how to make this brute a bit faster. I have always wanted to get an 11second time slip with this car but being at a 12.7 when it was an auto, I have a ways to go. But again I need to get back to Milan and see what it traps with the new tune and go from there.

I still have my lid conversion laying around.
I think my Y pipe might be a bit of a restriction but not much.

My tb and injectors are still stock but I don't think that's affecting me much.

I have thought about going turbo now that Jonny will be making kits for these old turds. But my motor is the complete opposite of what a boosted motor wants. Right? High compression, big cam, wrong pistons (compression). etc.... I have thought of finding another short block since they are a dime a dozen and building that as i have money and time but then again, im a 93 so unless i want to change my computer and wiring harness for a vented opti and a maf then I'm stuck finding a 93.

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Something that I have been wanting to change and needing to change for a while is a new damn bumper. Both front and rear need to be done but I think front needs to be more of a priority. I just noticed at the meet and greet that apparently there are 2 tabs/brackets by the headlights that bolt to the core support. Well mine doesn't' have them and that's why my bumper to fender gap is so awful.

So sooner than later Im going to see if I can hunt down a decent condition bumper at a junkyard and strip it and re paint it. Which I'm not looking forward to because painting the headlight buckets is a damn pain. Also ill be on the hunt for some fogs and ill be painting the fog light area gloss black as well.

 

I understand your pain in the realization of just not being able to part ways with your first car. It's a curse I've come to accept.

I'd just enjoy the car man. Do some exterior modifications to it, maybe invest in a ballin sound setup. (being honest I haven't looked back at ALL the pages in this thread so I don't know if you do or not)

Unfortunately though, bad news arrives via me, Alvin is no longer tuning LT1s...unless...you have the 24x conversion. lol. He tuned my car for years and many cars from a previous shop I used to work for, always came out basically perfect. The man was destined to tune for sure. If you're up for it, look into the DIY 24x setup, cheaper then the plug and play setup.

I am actually currently undergoing the process of the EFI setup, and luckily enough I work for the man himself, so I can't wait to see the gains that lay before us.

 

It could use some speakers but I'm over the subs, had my fair share of that in high school.

Where can you get the plug and play 24x? What's the cost difference to the diy ones?

There aren't many exterior mods I can do. Have an ss spoiler, might tint the tails. Could use an ss hood. Already have wheels.

 

I dont think you need a 93 short block at all. If you want more power and dont want to spend a ton get a 93 short block, get a stock crank(or a forged Eagle crank and have it balanced), get some eagle stock length rods and whatever forged piston is your choice as long as you dip compression down to 9.5:1 or below then put your existing setup on top. The cam may not be ideal but if you want to cut costs a little bit you could rock it. You could have another shortblock between the shock towers for as little as $1500.

You could go much higher than that but the eagle stuff if balanced has been proven to last in some pretty quick cars. Im not getting rid of my LT1 either so Im right behind you on the forged stuff.

 

Lol your first 2 sentences contradicted themselves.

That's kind the way I'm leaning. If I go with a turbo I'm wondering if I need to get a complete forged bottom end or not. Obviously it won't hurt but I'm trying to keep this budget friendly. I know boost and budget can't be used in the same sentence. I don't want to cut corners but I don't want to spend money where it isn't needed to have a fun boosted street car.

 

nooooo!!!!!!

 

https://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/24xLT1.aspx

 

I missed a word. I meant 93 specific short block. Im not sure of all the differences between the years but the short block itself didnt change much. The opti, heads, etc. changed but you should be able to buy a short block from any year and roll with it.

 

So I have been leaning more towards a Huron Speed turbo kit.

I picked up a new block.

Still up in the air if I want to go all out, 4 bolt splayed, forged pistons and forged rods, bored .030 over or just go with a stock rebuild, .030 over, forged rods, Apr hardware.



Opinions, suggestions are much appreciated

 

I'm glad to see the direction you're headed towards. I know what I'd do with the short block, but can't really comment until I know how much horsepower you're wanting to make and how much boost you plan to run.
Did you let that GM SS hood get away from you?

 

Yes

I'd like to hit 500rwhp to start and go from there.

 

I was going to recommend staying with the stock crank and getting some good Scat 7/16" capscrew I-beam rods and forged pistons....maybe some ARP main studs too.

But, since you are planning on "going from there" I think you should go ahead and start off with a good 4340 crank and the 4 bolt conversion as well. You won't go wrong investing in a good foundation. The extra cubes won't hurt either.

I know there are a lot of people following this thread, but not many posting lately. Thanks for keeping the updates coming. I know I haven't said much about recent posts either, but have been keeping up with them and enjoying it. Glad to see you're probably going to keep it. Jason

 

I appreciate the kind words Jason, I enjoy keeping it up to date as possible. I also like looking back and seeing where it came from

I'm still doing a bunch of reading on what to go with. Still waiting to hear a response back from the engine builder....

 

I thought you'd appreciate this... I must have passed up that OTHER oem hood for this one.



It got keyed. Came off a true 97 ss. Oh, did I mention that I picked up a 96&97 ss spoiler too? All for the price WELL under the price of an after market 98-02 ss spoiler.... I stole them to say the least.

 

Some people have all the luck! Nice find.

 

I had to revisit this thread and see how the car's doing. Great work! I never owned an LT1 so I have to ask: At what power level is it more cost effective to go LSX? Seeing some guys kick *** with forged 370's topped with ported 243's and LS6 intakes or really kick *** with junkyard 5.3's and cheapie turbo kits has me wondering compared to what I see the common LT1 builds running.

 

Plasti dipped the wheels today. I thought i was set on doing a set of my 10 spokes gloss black but after seeing a buddys car with matte powdercoat black 10 spokes on his 98 I had to see what they would look like.





I finally had 30 minutes of free time. Go figure it was after working all day on a sunday lol.

What I started with after I cleaned all of the grim off.


Got it prepped for the most part. Im going to prime the areas I feathered out the chips. I don't want it to shrink and look like crap.




This is what I started with on the outside.



Wanted to get that old nasty (probably rattle can) primer off of it.



Fixed a couple of pics and got some primer on it. Still need to block the whole hood and make sure there aren't any flaws in it. Then ill prime and block it again. I want this thing flat and smooth





How does the grill come out on the hood? Are they easily available? Id rather paint it off and snap it back on then try taping it up.

 

Plasti dipped the wheels today. I thought i was set on doing a set of my 10 spokes gloss black but after seeing a buddys car with matte powdercoat black 10 spokes on his 98 I had to see what they would look like.





I finally had 30 minutes of free time. Go figure it was after working all day on a sunday lol.

What I started with after I cleaned all of the grim off.


Got it prepped for the most part. Im going to prime the areas I feathered out the chips. I don't want it to shrink and look like crap.




This is what I started with on the outside.



Wanted to get that old nasty (probably rattle can) primer off of it.



Fixed a couple of pics and got some primer on it. Still need to block the whole hood and make sure there aren't any flaws in it. Then ill prime and block it again. I want this thing flat and smooth





How does the grill come out on the hood? Are they easily available? Id rather paint it off and snap it back on then try taping it up.