the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Since this is starting to be a very common swap and it's pretty much a standard procedure how bout we get a sticky goin with all of us that have done it and the cars we did it with. That way those that are doing it have a bunch of information in one spot that is directly for their cars.

This is my 1995 Camaro Z28 Thread..

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...to-95-z28.html

The 1995-up are the easiest to do this swap with IMO..they are OBDII wired cars, and everything is pretty much inplace to do it with.

In general it's a straight forward swap..here is a short list of what I have seen that works the best..

LS1 Steering Rack & Linkage is needed, no way around it.
LS1 K-member and Mounts are the best way to go, or any of the aftermarket LS K-members. I tried it with the Conversion Mounts/LT1 K-member and ran into clearance issues.
For the T56 Cars the LT1 Transmission Crossmember works directly, even the aftermarket ones. The LS1 and LT1 T56's are dimensionally identical and mount in the same spot, just the Bellhousing, Front Plate, and Input Shaft are different.
For the Automatic Cars the LS Automatic will bolt up to the stock Torque Arm granted you use the F-body Tailhousing, however you will have to modify the LT1 Automatic Crossmember to get it to mount up. The Crossmember from the LS Car will NOT Bolt up. Some people here have slotted the stock LT1 Crossmember, I've never done it so they will have better info. The Mounting Points are very close on the 4L60E Transmissions.
The Engine will go in with the LS F-body Accessories, all of them are needed..you cant mix n match. For the Ironblocks you will have to Drill & Tap for one of the Alternator Bolts..M10x1.5 Tap.
Stock LT1 Radiator is better than the LS1 F-body Radiator so keep it, it's 1" thick vs. the 7/8" thick in the LS Cars, keep the Fans.
For the stock Tach the Tach Output Table in the LS Tune needs to be set to "3".
GM Temp Sensor 12551708, 1998 LS1 Temp Sensor, is needed.

The Wiring and Fuel System here are the variables..everyone of us here did it similar, there really is no set standard or procedure to it. Get an F-body LS Harness & PCM, it's the easiest to work with.
Basically it's get it power, ground it, and get it fuel..

Here is my Wiring Thread..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...o-lt1-car.html


Post up your cars fellas..

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

Beat you to it Matt, lol:

95 LT1 TA going LQ9

And here is mine:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-0-swap-2.html

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

Don't forget the .400 spacer if you're going with an older non-Gen III automatic trans, or the adapter flexplate.

Also, the corvette filter/regulator.

Btw Merv, make sure you update whatever weird changes on the car I may need to do with the wiring for 93 specific.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Lol..there are a ton of us to hopefully people can spread this thread and everyone can chime in.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

To adapt the older style Auto Transmissions to the LS Engine the easiest way is the 6.0l & 4L80E Flexplate, Crank Spacer, and Bolts. These are found in the from the 2500 and 2500HD Trucks. Using them and whatever Convertor comes with the Transmission you are using is the way to go. That's how I have my TH350 bolted to the back of my 408.

Some people have taken the stock curved Flexplate and put the Spacer on the back of it, inbetween the Flexplate and Convertor, and have gotten it to work aswell.

The Corvette Filter/Regulator is what 99% are prob using..GM Part Number 10299146.

MattSapp95_T/A

iTrader: (35)

Reserved....

I will be adding some photos of all the conversion stuff on my f body when I put the motor in next week..
Also my thread that Kenny linked above has some good info...

Until then here are some LT1 to LSX photos to enjoy

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

Yea ! Wut he^^^^^^ said!

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

You're helmet & crayons love you..

MattSapp95_T/A

iTrader: (35)

HAHA.....I don't have no more crayons I eated them all.....

97badass

iTrader: (8)

can i haz looze wirez hangin tue?

Strokinit383

iTrader: (22)

Great thread! Putting together a 94 with d1sc procharged 370/ls3 top end. Progress is slow, but will take pics as I go.

Merv, what will be different with a 94 model as far as wiring goes?

MattSapp95_T/A

iTrader: (35)

yea you have to overlook my Trans temp gauge ground wire hanging loose..and no hood...and some plug wires undone..and the front suspension too high...however...if you look really closely you will see thousands of hard earned dollars spent on a 500+ hp ls motor sitting in there....lol

bizerk1

How much has this cost u to do the swap $????

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Depends on what you want to go with and how much of it you can do yourself.

Honestly I have no idea off-hand, I'll have to look at the diagrams and see exactly.

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

This is what I meant:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...uto-trans.html

GM part number 12563532 for the spacer. Where you place it depends on what flexplate you have.

There's also a flexplate from Hughes HP4004X that is sfi approved and is an adapter style.

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

Quite honestly, not a whole lot. I made a bet with Matt awhile back I could do the COMPLETE swap for under $5k (I lost, but not by much, $500-$600 hundred bucks).

Quick Rundown:

Core LQ4 - $900
LS3 intake, rails, and 42# injectors - $300
LS3 Heads, new from GM - $700
LS2 rods/pistons - $150
96mm TB - $190
2000 f-body Harness - $300
0411 PCM - $65
F-body oil pan - $120
ARP rod bots - $85
Rings, bearing - $200-300
Cam, pushrods, springs, locks, retainers - $850
LS7 lifters - $122
LS2 timing chain - $40 (i think? don't really remember)
Melling oil pump - $135

$4257

Sell 317s, intake, ETB -$250-$300

Not too bad..

EDIT: I just noticed you were talking to Matt, lol. Don't ask, he still has nightmares of cash registers, checks, debit cards, credit cards, and hundred dollar bills teaming up and kicking his ***....lol

oChristiano

iTrader: (6)

Honestly all said and done my swap will practically be free. I decided to go the route of picking up a donor car. Got a good deal on a 01z28 with 55k miles for 2800. After parting out what I don't need between my donor car and my LT stuff ill most likely break even maybe make some $. The only costs I have besides the donor car is a ls k member since mine was damaged and sending my harness to merv. Not everyone has the room to part out a car but I do thanks to some good friends.

even with his build with a lq and ls3 top end and bolt ons the swap ended up costing about whatto it would cost to build a 383 long block. Same power if not more and better reliability.

97badass

iTrader: (8)

93z how much did your engine acc. cost? right now im starting off cheaper than you... and how much machine shop work did you have done?

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

Machine shop costs were $300 for me. rebalance, flycut, check rods. Nothing on the block, deck checked out fine, and I'm honing the cylinders myself this weekend.

K-member - free
TH350 - free

Acc. Brackets are:

12555693 - $13.99
12556915 - $23.99
12557331 - $24.99
12563327 - $29.99

Summit prices.

Alternator and power steering were $75 from the junkyard.

97badass

iTrader: (8)

i wish i had a free k member! on the acc part numbers and prices is that from the dealership?