LT1STROKER

iTrader: (3)

MY GOAL IS TO HAVE A CAR THAT MAKES SOLID 550 HORSE (HONESTLY HOPING FOR BETTER, BUT TRYING TO REMAIN REALISTIC) AND DRIVE ABOUT 130-150 MILES A WEEK.


HERE ARE THE DETAILS OF THE PARTS I ALREADY HAVE:
94 PONTIAC TA WITH T56, NEW MOSER 9 INCH HOUSING HAVEN'T DECIDED ON GEAR YET PROBABLY A 3.90 - 4.30
0.060 BORE 4 BOLT LT1 BLOCK
EAGLE 4340 4" STROKE CRANK
SCAT PRO COMP 6.0 I BEAMS
MAHLE 4.060 PISTONS FLAT TOPS
COMP CAMS ENDUREX SOLID ROLLER LIFTERS (THINKING ABOUT RETURNING THEM AND SWAPPING FOR SOME ISKY REDZONES NOW THAT I HAVE READ UP ON THEM SOME AND GETTING THE EZ ROL OPTION, WHICH WILL ALLOW ME TO RUN A REV KIT FOR JUST SOME INSURANCE NOT TO BEAT THOSE LIFTERS UP SO BAD BOUNCING ON THE CAM FROM LASH.)
TRICK FLOW HEADS PORTED BY TOTAL ENGINE AIRFLOW SET UP FOR SOLID ROLLER CAMSHAFT. I CHOSE THE 220 RUNNER BECAUSE OF THE SIZE OF THE MOTOR, WITH 62CC CHAMBERS WHICH SHOULD YEILD A 12.3:1 STATIC COMPRESSION WITH MY GASKETS.
EDELBROCK LT4 AIR GAP INTAKE. (I KNOW THEY SUCK COMPARED TO STOCKERS BUT LT4 INTAKES ARE FAIRLY SCARCE; I HAVE TALKED WITH LLOYD ELLIOT REGUARDING HOGGING THIS INTAKE OUT AS BEST CAN BE DONE.
FLOW MATCHED 42# INJECTORS

THESE ARE THE QUESTIONABLE PARTS I HAVEN'T QUITE PUT IN CONCRETE YET!

CAMSHAFT SPECS:
I AM ALMOST SOLID ON A CUSTOM COMP USING THERE SOLID ROLLER RT/NC LOBES WHICH SPECS AT
ADV 286/295 @.050 256/262 WITH .635/.632 LIFT WITH A 1.5 ROCKER AND I AM THINKING ON A 112 LSA AND MAYBE REUSING MY 1.6 ROCKERS WHICH WILL GIVE .674 BEFORE LASH.

HEADERS:
I CURRENTLY HAVE HOOKER LONG TUBES, DO YOU THINK I WILL TAKE A HUGE LOSS IN POWER BY REUSING THEM. THEY ARE COATED AND IN GREAT SHAPE. WHAT IS THE MOST NA POWER YOU GUYS HAVE MADE WITH 1 3/4 LONG TUBES; BECAUSE I DONT HAVE MANY OTHER OPTIONS FOR HEADERS OTHER THAN A STEPPED HEADER, BUT I AM JUST QUESTIONING HOW MUCH REALLY I WILL GAIN SWAPPING TO THEM WHEN THEY START OUT WITH THE SAME PRIMARY SIZE.

EXHAUST:
I KNOW MY 3 INCH OVER AXLE WILL PROBABLY STRANGLE MY MOTOR SO I AM THINKING OF A TRUE DUAL TYPE SET UP BUT THIS IS A STREET DRIVEN CAR AND I DONT WANT TURNDOWNS, SO IF I HAVE TO RUN THEM OVER AXLE INTO SOMETHING ( I WOULD RATHER THEM EXIT IN THE STOCK LOCATION).
WILL THE MUFFLEX 4 INCH SUPPORT MY MOTOR??

THROTTLE BODY:
EVERY ONE TALKS ABOUT ME NEEDING A MONOBLADE BUT THE MOTOR THAT I DECIDED TO PATTERN THIS BUILD OFF OF WAS DYNO'D WITH A 900 CFM CARB AND ALMOST MADE 600 HP ON PUMP GAS WITH A MERE 10 OR SO TO 1 COMPRESSION. SO WHY WOULD A GOOD 58 MM NOT WORK FOR THIS APP.

HERE IS THE INSPIRATIONAL ARTICLE THAT GOT ME TO BUYING PARTS:

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...ock/index.html

NOW I HAVE ALMOST A 2 POINT BUMP IN COMPRESSION AND SLIGHTLY MORE AGGRESSIVE CAMSHAFT TIMING WITH A LARGER RUNNER HEAD, AND SLIGHTLY BETTER AIRFLOW; AND CONSIDERING THEY TESTED THE ENGINE WITH 1 3/4 HEADERS, SHOULD I NOT BE ABLE TO DUPLICATE THIS POWER, DESPITE THE RUMORS OF THE EDELBROCK INTAKE. I SIMPLY DID NOT WANT THIS CAR TO LOOK THE PART OF A RACE CAR, I WANTED IT TO LOOK AS IF IT SHOULD FOR AN LT1!

SORRY SO LONG BUT I HAVE FINALLY SAVED UP ENOUGH TO PUT THE REST OF THE MOTOR TOGETHER AND ASSEMBLE IT JUST NEED HELP CLEARING UP SOME THINGS!
THANKS FOR YOU GUYS RESPONSES IN ADVANCE, I LOOK FORWARD TO YOUR ADVICE AND I AM SURE CRITICISM TOO!
KP

fuel

iTrader: (13)

it should make 550 rwhp

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

how much of this do you already have done?

a 4" mufflex should be able to handle that motor

honestly I'd say look into a single plane intake and get a custom cam from AI or LE

T/ALT1

iTrader: (3)

It looks like a nice setup but you will need the right rods, pistons and crank to clear your block or you could run ito the waterjackets and trash your block. You should have bought the parts from TL and they would have worked much better then trying to make your parts work. JMO Goodluck and let us know how it goes.

T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

I'll have my Ported LE Edelbrock LT4 intake up for sale cheap here soon. It was for my 216 runner AFR heads.

LT1STROKER

iTrader: (3)

i already have the short block pieces and all machine work done, the block and rotating assembly has been trial fit and everything clears (inside the block :-) , oil pan is the next issue, but the scat stroker clearanced rods really do make this job a lot easier.

i contacted t&l and after talking to two builders there and reading some of the horror stories, i figured i would go about it myself, since i have a couple of great machines shops locally that do great work. But all block and rotating pieces are all verified to fit.

it is funny you say that, because i ran across all of your picture about 6 months ago and that is what steered me to giving this intake a try in that fashion. If i am not mistaken you also had a mono blade throttle body, will you be selling that as well? I purchased my intake from t.e.a with the heads and i dunno whether they will take it back especially considering the time frame that has elapsed. They gave me a pretty fair deal on it though. I will contact them on it. What price will you be asking for it, and how much for the throttle body as well. If you don't mind me askinig, what made you decide to change?

za355tx

iTrader: (108)

Quick and simple with a few things here.

Go with 3 inch true duals without a doubt. The 4 inch mufflex can support a bunch of HP however their mufflers suck. They're very restrictive. The size of the pipe helps but overall flow sucks. With a motor like that you NEED true duals. A good set of TD's can support over 800 hp. A 4 inch system can support around 630. If you were to use a race type muffler then the 4 inch system would work ok.

For the headers as long as the primaries are 1 3/4 you should be fine. You might pick up a little from a stepped header but I doubt it will be a whole lot.

You don't need a monoblade. A 58mm will do the trick just fine. Monoblades are more trouble than they're worth. (I would know I've used both).

For a cam you need to call either Lloyd Elliott or Advanced Induction and tell them exactly what you have and what you want out of the car and they'll spec a cam for you. Lloyd's are $300 shipped.

Sticking with an LT4 manifold that's been ported will be fine. Going single plane would be better but not mandatory.

taner

iTrader: (6)

hmmm, if you want a real intake... i still have my hogan sheetmetal for sale.

as well, go monoblade, you can never have a large enough opening.

i agree with your idea to do duals! someday i will do that to mine. my y pipe kills my motor of power when it is on the street!

i didn't read everything, but i hope your trans is beefed up, lol! with 500+ rwhp you will break stuff been there done that many times.

as well, save your toes/feet and buy a McLeod SFI bellhousing, trust me! it is worth the few hundred bucks and 30 or so extra pounds in the car!

taner

iTrader: (6)

oh and turn the caps off, lol!!!

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

You dont NEED true duals.

You DO need a monoblade.

You Do need bigger headers.


I have a 3.5 inch Y pipe into a 4 inch Mufflex with a straight through Magnaflow muffler. I can uncap my car at the track and it runs the same ET/mph capped up as it does uncapped. Makes the same power. Only penalty is the weight. Run the Mufflex with a Borla muffler if ya want it quieter.


Monoblade, yep you need it with a 415, I would also do a single plane conversion. My Monoblade works and idles perfectly, no holes have been drilled in it. Its in the hands of the tuner here.


Call Bret Bauer for a cam. Bauer Racing Engines. My car would go a good bit quicker with a bigger cam. I told him I wanted a TROUBLE FREE street solid roller that would run in the tens. I bought all the supporting parts and he delivered exactly what I ordered. 6000 ish trouble free miles.

I would at least do a stepped header, Hedman makes a 1 7/8 to fit the car, I have them but they are not made to work with a/c.

Lonnies Performance

iTrader: (16)

Taner,
Thought you fell of the face of the earth.... where have you been hiding?

Call or e-mail me a price for the intake when you get a chance.

taner

iTrader: (6)

lonnie,

will do, work and family have kept me way too busy. very little internet time, lol!!! it is nice to poke around.

ttt for LT1stroker.... sorry didn't mean to hijack the thread. oh and 550rwhp is doable BUT I believe that your exhaust will be a limiting factor. you will only make as much power as your bottleneck will allow. do you plan on spraying the car? just wondering...

fastfatboy,

can you define how you uncap your exhaust at the track? I am curious? do you mean you drop the y pipe and it makes no difference. if that is the case then I need to build a ypipe like you have. because when i run my factory SLP 2OTL exhaust, i lose a TON of power, say over half a second in et. my car made 520rwhp with the stock exhaust on the car.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Taner, I have stainless band clamps holding both ends of the first bend off of each collector. Take the clamps off drop out each bend, the merge is welded to the each second bend so it stays in the car, along with the rest of the Mufflex.

Here are some mock up pics, where you see it tacked on the passenger side there is a clamp there also.





The whole system

za355tx

iTrader: (108)

If you're talking solid roller that big...with a t56 and expect it to be streetable is not all that realistic in my opinion.

At first I did say you need true duals but you don't NEED them but they would be worth it. Just because some people don't use them doesn't mean it's not a good idea. Ask most LTX gurus and they'll tell you to go with 3 inch TD's. It will outflow the 4 inch system and allow for more HP if you decided to spray at some point. And you do not need a monoblade. If you want to use one that's fine but it's not a mandatory thing. And you do not NEED bigger headers. Lots of guys around making big numbers with 1 3/4 primaries.

flyinZ

iTrader: (15)

^^That looks similar to mine, except the left pipe isnt as sharp of a turn, its more gradual of a turn. Then it runs into an SLP 2OTL. At the "corner" of each radius, I've got a cutout (on each side) for track use. I had a set of 3" TD's, but got tired of the drone on the highway.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

No room in these cars for true duals. There have been 1000 hp cars run the 4 inch with no power loss. Thats enough for me. I know its nice having all that racket at the back bumper, not under the seats.

The system on my car works very good, I am thinking about changing the muffler to a Borla, or put a bullet inline to take some of the POP out of it. This thing sounds like a pavement latemodel when you mash it. I get alot of compliments on how it sounds though.

Here ya go this is through the full system

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WConSQhjd0

Lonnies Performance

iTrader: (16)

I have full length mandrel bent 304 stainless duals on my car. I did this before single 4" kits were available. If I had to do it over, I would have a single 4".

As an FYI, a single 4" pipe has nearly the same area as dual 3" pipes (2 3" pipes are about 10% larger in area overall)...but the surface area of the tubing (where the air comes in contact with the pipe) is less with a single 4" pipe (by over 30%), causing less frictional losses (flow restriction) in a 4" system over the dual 3". This also means dual 3" pipes will weigh approx 30% more than a single 4" pipe.

Based on overall weight, & the flow characteristics mentioned above, the 4" is the better solution.

flyinZ

iTrader: (15)

David, I know what you mean. The only reason my TD's tucked up so nicely(could hardly see them if you bent down to look under car.) was b/c I massaged the floorpan with BFH. It was worth it, since I never bottomed out with that setup.

Car sounds good, btw!

Lonnie, thats some good info! I think I've heard that on another site as well.

LT1STROKER

iTrader: (3)

you have been pm'd

LT1STROKER

iTrader: (3)

no intended nitrous at all!