going for an opti change record
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 515
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From: North Augusta, SC
going for an opti change record there was a thread a couple weeks ago about how fast it could be done so i'm timing myself. this will be my 4th time, so i have it down to a science. starting with the car in the air on a 7 ton floor jack. i'll be stopping the timer when i get the opti off to change the timing cover seals and flush the heater core. aiming for 45 minutes on the opti. wish me luck!
Sounds like fun..
If I understand correctly you are timing the time it takes you to get the OPTI off the car..that's it?
I could get that in about 15 min when I had the LT1 in my car..no joke..
I could get that in about 15 min when I had the LT1 in my car..no joke..
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
From: North Augusta, SC
well mission cancelled completely forgot i need a opti harness since the MSD i have has it built in. so i took the MSD apart and cleaned it up. oil had seeped in from where the wiring harness runs through the billet body. there was barely any in there, but apparently it got to the optical sensor. put it all back together and about to find out if its helped at all. end time: about an hour
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It's not too bad to do..
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 1
From: South Dakota
I just changed my opti with a MSD a couple of days ago. Now i am in the process of changing the plugs. I some how manged to change the driver's side, but i am looking for advice for changing the passenger side. thanks
It's not just cut down it's drilled out as well, but you could do that. Some people would rather buy the socket than have the hassle and time of modding their own. Whatever floats your boat though.
i use to charge 300$ to r&r opti wth wires,plugs and in under an hour.
but of course i had every single tool needed. and had a system. about 2 yr. ago i junked a box of opti carcasses i had, maybe like 25 total. i rebuilt a few from the ones that had good parts. moisture and carbon tracking are bad for the opti.
but of course i had every single tool needed. and had a system. about 2 yr. ago i junked a box of opti carcasses i had, maybe like 25 total. i rebuilt a few from the ones that had good parts. moisture and carbon tracking are bad for the opti.
If you mean when you install the new wires in the loom behind the PS pump, there's only one sure-fire way that I know of......The factory shop manual says "remove the PS pump". I did it once with the pump in place, and damaged a wire. I took the pump off, and while it was a bit annoying to pull the pump, it made the wire R&R a breeze.
I've done the "opti shuffle" a couple of times....It's not the worst job I've ever done, but just seems so stupid! You have to drain the cooling system and pull the water pump, just to remove the distributor!!
I had mine ('96 Z-28) all apart earlier this year, trying to fix an oil leak. I replaced the rear main seal, all the front cover seals, and an oil pan gasket. The car was leak free for about 3-4 weeks, and then it started seeping oil again. It appears to be coming from the water pump driveshaft seal, but once the air around the car at speed blows the oil around, it's hard to tell where it's coming from.
I went through the frustration of pulling the tranny, to replace the rear seal, because the inspection cover was full of oil. Once I got the tranny moved back and the flexplate off, I could then see that the seal wasn't leaking at all. However, that doesn't expain how the inspection cover was filling up..... I mentioned this once before, in another discussion on this forum, this Z-28 by itself, leaks more oil that all of the cars I've owned since 1971 put together!!
I had mine ('96 Z-28) all apart earlier this year, trying to fix an oil leak. I replaced the rear main seal, all the front cover seals, and an oil pan gasket. The car was leak free for about 3-4 weeks, and then it started seeping oil again. It appears to be coming from the water pump driveshaft seal, but once the air around the car at speed blows the oil around, it's hard to tell where it's coming from.
I went through the frustration of pulling the tranny, to replace the rear seal, because the inspection cover was full of oil. Once I got the tranny moved back and the flexplate off, I could then see that the seal wasn't leaking at all. However, that doesn't expain how the inspection cover was filling up..... I mentioned this once before, in another discussion on this forum, this Z-28 by itself, leaks more oil that all of the cars I've owned since 1971 put together!!
