Car won't turn on, security light is blinking. need some help with this one, plz.
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Car won't turn on, security light is blinking. need some help with this one, plz.
My car doesnt want to start. it seems like the power to the starter is cut. i get in and turn the key to crank it and nothing. all the lights on the dash are normal except for the "security" light keeps flashing. Ive tried cleaning the little resistor in the key and using the spare and nothing. we tried getting rid of the VATS by deleting it with the computer but it still won't do anything. I bought it with an astra 777 alarm and im thinking that it may be failing, but its worked perfectly up untill yesterday.
At this point i think its either the alarm won't disengage the anti theft system or the lock cylinder is dirty and not reading the resistor right.
Btw, i know the batttery is good and the starter is fine. its that damn security light. no codes.
I have tried leaving the key in the on position for 15-20 minutes hoping the key would reset itself but it didn't. I also tried disconnect the battery but nothing happened either.
I need some kind of schematic for this alarm so i can see what does what....
I need some advice on this. what should i do to get the car running?
At this point i think its either the alarm won't disengage the anti theft system or the lock cylinder is dirty and not reading the resistor right.
Btw, i know the batttery is good and the starter is fine. its that damn security light. no codes.
I have tried leaving the key in the on position for 15-20 minutes hoping the key would reset itself but it didn't. I also tried disconnect the battery but nothing happened either.
I need some kind of schematic for this alarm so i can see what does what....
I need some advice on this. what should i do to get the car running?
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It's the ignition switch, that's what happened to our LS1 security light kept blinking and when you went to start it nothing, but all the lights were on. I had to pull the fuse for the PCM to reset it and it would start, BUT that was only a temp fix. Try to get a diagnostic done on the car if you can.
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im gonna check for any bad grounds tomorrow. if i dont see anything bad then im gonnna try and get rid of the stupid alarm (theres spliced wires in there so who knows what the heck might have happened). if that doesn't solve anything them im moving on to the lock cylinder (which im assuming is the ignition switch). Is this a wise road to take or should i just jump to the lock cylinder?
Last edited by Z28_LT1; 11-17-2009 at 12:51 AM.
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Yup VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System) i believe that is what it stands for. The wire dont actually lock the cylinder though. What it does is reads the chip in the key and then feeds it back to the computer. What this does is then goes to the relay and allows this to feed power to the starter solenoid. When this is deleted this bypasses this complete system and is just like the old school turn key and start the car.
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The link in post #6 to my PassKey write-up has all that info.
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so then the alarm probably has nothing to with it?
since vats is tuned out then all i gotta do is by pass the TDR right? that will complete the equation and the car should fire up, in theory.
since vats is tuned out then all i gotta do is by pass the TDR right? that will complete the equation and the car should fire up, in theory.
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Not true. Tuning it out only takes car of half (fuel delivery) of what the VATS does. If it does not see the key pellet, there will be no starter engagement and the Security light will remain. You also have to bypass the TDR, to totally get rid of the VATS (or do the resistor bypass to satisfy the VATS).
The link in post #6 to my PassKey write-up has all that info.
The link in post #6 to my PassKey write-up has all that info.
shbox, i notice the schematic to bypass the tdr is for a 95. do you think i should treat it like a 96?
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Originally Posted by shbox.com
Replacing the TDR is just plug and play, but some will bypass it also. Referring to this schematic (1995), you can unplug the relay and join the yellow and purple wires together. This completely bypasses the relay.
You can also keep the relay (if it is working), but bypass the need for the TDM to operate it. Referring to the schematic, the yellow/black wire from the TDM to the TDR would need to be permanently grounded toward the TDR. Doing this only, will not affect the neutral safety or clutch switch operation. The relay will only operate when the switch is in the START position as that is the only time it would get 12v power.
You can also keep the relay (if it is working), but bypass the need for the TDM to operate it. Referring to the schematic, the yellow/black wire from the TDM to the TDR would need to be permanently grounded toward the TDR. Doing this only, will not affect the neutral safety or clutch switch operation. The relay will only operate when the switch is in the START position as that is the only time it would get 12v power.
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well i went underneath and i tried to do the bypass, but only one problem: all i see is bunch of wires. theres like 2 purple, 2 yellow, a bunch of red and black. i don't know how to ID anything down there. maybe its time to take it to someone who knows what theyre doing and dish out the cash
at least this way i know it gets done right.
at least this way i know it gets done right.