Glad to see I am not the only one that saw this. Do five brake jobs a day and you start seeing lots of dead ABS units from guys in the shop forcing nasty fluid back up.

 

I always open the bleeders when trying to compress the pistons, always keep an extra bottle of fluid to top up the reservoir.

 

probably its air in the system. are u sure u followed the right order of bleeding the brakes, u have to start from the furthest caliper from the master cylinder,,,

First - rear RH
second - rear LH
third - front RH
last - front LH

i followed this order when i bleed my system. BTW i bleed my brakes with the engine off never did the ABS unit, and they work just fine

 

I tried the drive and pump method earlier, made no difference. Guess will just have to bleed them again one at a time.

Adel, I think I saw your car at Master Exhaust, changed to cutouts at the headers and Y pipe now?

If you are selling your duals set up, let me know

 

yup it was mine, ill shoot u a PM

 

If you bleed some more and the sponginess is still there, it could be a bad master. It seems like the air is in the fronts as the pedal is soft to the end and I believe the last bit is the rear brakes...where it seems to get tighter. Anyway, if you don't see fluid anywhere, and it is not going into the booster, it could be bad internals in the master as well allowing fluid to push past and you lose pedal. Try bleeding first, but the master may have just taken a dump coincidentally with the cam swap.

 

If your brakes were working before this happened then it must be air in the system. Out of curiosity, did you let the reservoir become dry while bleeding the brakes?

 

get a black light and check all around the reservoir, mine was bad and leaking and had to be replaced. you will see the fluid under the light

 

Why would you bleed the brakes to change pads or rotors? I do the same a SS RRR just open the res and c-clamp the pistons down. Ive never had any type of issues, and just like he said it take about 2 stops for the pedal to come back.
My buddy once did his rotors at my house on his 99 Firebird and tried to bleed them wich left his car just like yours. No pedal and crappy brakes.
90% sure you still have air in the lines.

 

I had to open the bleeders because I did not have a C clamp to compress them, however the fluid was topped up after. The new rotors are fat, and so are the pads so it needed a considerable amount of compressing the pistons. I might have sucked in air (most likely) since the bleeders were open.

While I attempted to bleed the brakes, I had someone constantly top it up to the correct level.

I guess it needs a full severe bleeding.

 

Yeah mine is doing this after my hotcam swap. I think I have a huge air bubble somewhere in the lines. My car is doing the same symptom. I just hope my master cylinder has not taken a dump in the last 9 months it has been sitting.

 

i just fixed the problem you are having by fixing my lifter preload. preload was wayy to tight. (thanks to the comp cams tech line advise ) throw a vac guage on it. mime was was flucuating between 13-15 in hg. i re adjusted the preload today and i got a great pedal again!!! before i had brakes just had to push the pedal twice as far. now its as good as new. and i might add that it runs on top end much better too. so my vote is you look there.

 

Took it to a local service center at a gas station, as they had a vacuum bottle for bleeding. And they had a lift so I managed to inspect under my car and search for any leaks I have from my build, thankfully none.

So, away we bleed, and you wouldn't believe the amount of air that was in the lines! We flushed the whole system and now I have excellent brakes and fresh fluid.

I must say, the new rotors with the Hawk Ceramic pads are incredible! So much improvement over the stock pads. I should have gone Hawk a long time ago

Thanks to all who chipped in from their experience and knowledge and helped out