ADM

Car is untuned, just trying to take it to the muffler shop which is harly half a mile away, and I have no almost no brakes. I press the pedal down and it barely grips right at the end. Pedal just does down easily.

I bled them all 4 corners, the car is now not idling over 500rpm (it was at 750 until i blocked off the pipe sticking out under the hose that connects to the passenger side valve cover, and if I connect the MAF, it stalls)

I have no leaks in any of my lines, my brakes were working great before the cam swap too.

Could it be I still do have alot of air in the system? I did put in new rotors and pads and had to open the bleeder screws to comress the pistons down.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Did you do brake work at the same time as the cam?

What about the vacum hose goin to the brake booster, did you reconnect that? Could be it but I would expect the pedal to be way hard, not easy...

ADM

If I pump the pedal 3-5 times, it gets hard, and then goes soft again.

I have all the hoses connected, and I am certain I did connected the brake booster hose back onto the intake, I will double check it to confirm its security.

While I was trying to source out the hub puller, I made use of the free time to change out the rotors and pads.

My brakes worked great before, but car being more powerful = going faster = needing to stop faster.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Exactly. Is the booster vacuum hose connected? If not then you may have a massive vacuum leak somewhere. What about the EGR? Is it connected or could you have forgotten to connect it? Stalling when connecting the MAF may be normal especially on an untuned PCM. Once it goes into closed loop it may idle on its own. If everything is connected then your valves may not be adjusted correctly. Get a vacuum guage on your manifold and see what it is pulling. Should be somewhere between 15 and 19" at idle (depends on the cam profile).

Totally unnecessary. It's best to open the master cylinder reservoir, get a large c-clamp and press the piston back into the caliper. Once done putting all brakes on then siphon the excess fluid (if there is any) out of the reservoir with a vacuum pump. In your case more than likely you have air in your lines.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

if your preload is too tight it will make the car idle shitty. my car ran ok untuned with a cc306, but had to disconnect the maf as well. just sounds like air in the lines though

ADM

The EGR has been deleted, and the plates have been installed with gaskets and RTV to help the sealing.

It will idle on its own when it goes into closed loop, and at 750, I even took a vid of it idling. But that was when I did have a vacuum leak from this pipe, it was giving extra air for it to run, but once I plugged it, the idle went down to 500~. I thought it could have been the cause of the vacuum leak, but nothing has changed.



I will go and check the hoses once again, and get back to you guys in 10 mins.

ADM

OK, just checked the vacuum hoses, the ones I deleted for emissions are not leaking, the brake booster hose is on securely ( I removed it and it idled at 1500 and put ir back on, went back to 500-600, clamp secured back on), brake fluid is topped up.

Now, I put my foot down, pedal goes down easy and gets hard right at the very end. I pumped the pedal and it got harder, let go, and go back down slowly, and surely its loose again.

I repeated the pumping and check the fluid lever, hasn't budged.

Could I have some massive amount of air trapped in the system still?

94LTZ

iTrader: (5)

I have a automatic car and with a stock stall and a cam my breaks where never the greatest until i put a stall in the car, so are you a auto or 6 speed?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Actually after thinking about it if you replaced your pads then the sponginess may be normal. What I've done is pump the **** out of the brakes with the engine running until there was some brake feel. I would then putter down the street applying the brakes several times unti the sponginess was gone. If you have a safe place to putter then that's what I would do.

ADM

Thats difficult living in the capital, and the police are at full force these days.

Lastnight I took it out for the first time in 4 months, loping happily with the biggest smile on my face but driving very slowly, struggling to keep it from stalling and the popo meets me at the exit. Thankfully I had the remainder of my exhaust in the back so I had an excuse of "im going to the exhaust shop". Still got 2 tickets, no seatbelt (yea i know) and not carrying my license (forgot it in my other car). At least they didn't impound it

I am running stock stall, but thats temporary. I am thinking of either a Vig or a YANK.

fleetmgr

You have air in the system. Bleed away.

meissenation

iTrader: (2)

Yep, I had tons of air in my brake lines when I finished my CC503 cam swap because I had installed brand new stainless brake lines from the ABS to all 4 corners and I had barely any brakes. I limped to the exhaust shop and then across the street to get an alignment. While they did the alignment, they must have shook the **** out of my brake lines because when I left the alignment shop I swear my brakes felt better. Went home, bled the brakes again and all the air finally came out that I had been trying to bleed out.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

A side street perhaps? You don't need that much distance.

ADM

You don't have an idea of how densely populated this place is lol I will take it for a couple of slow drives down the road which only leads back down to my house. Its about 1/4 mile, is that enough?

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

last time i did my breaks i had the same issue, i thought i screwed up somewhere. When down the road and they came back to normal, but dont remember how far i went. When you drive it make sure you check the fluid level when you get back

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

i know this is going to sound stupid but I had a buddy of mine that put the wrong caliper on the wrong side which left the bleeder at the bottom instead of the top, turns the caliper into a nice steel baloon lol. You've definatly got air in the system, try bleeding up at the ABS unit too, when I pulled mine to paint and make new lines I had to bleed the ABS seperatly from the calipers.

ADM

Now thats a funny one haha

I did one side at a time, so no chance of such a thing happening.

I just ordered my tune through Solomon, just need to find a way to get him a log, and thanks to Vista I cannot install Freescan so now I have to format it back to XP.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Most definitely. Even though it doesn't feel like it there should be enough clamping force to stop the car and you only need to reach speeds of around 10 to 15mph and brake several times. It should only take less than a 1/4mi to get all your pedal back.

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

actually, opening the bleeder of the caliper you are pushing in prevents the other side from pushing out and prevents fluid being pushed back into the system which can lead to abs valves stuck open.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Perhaps. Never had a problem in the 13 years I've been changing out brakes on my car.