multmigs

iTrader: (2)

So I finally completed my complete top end swap on my 94Z which included removing the heads/intake and installing ported versions in their place, also dropped the oil pan to check everything, found nothing strange all, cylinders looked excellent, never removed timing cover and put all back together, reused 1.6RR arms and did all work myself using all new gaskets bolts and following all factory TQ specs and assembly instructions. went to start car and nothing happens. Just spins over forever, also seems too fast of a turning over. I have confirmed that the FP is correct, there is spark and this motor ran great before all this work. Compression gauge used on multiple different cylinders shows 0 compression. I've searched on here and seen a few threads about incorrect valve lash adjustment. the lifters were reused and are OEM parts with 25K same as were the RR arms. What should I do next? my friend suggest pouring a small amount of oil in each cylinder and checking compression again as it may "come up" Not sure I buy that....

duh

iTrader: (16)

If you are showing 0's across the board you have issues. Sounds as though your timing set may not be installed correctly, your valve lash is not set correctly, or the heads haven't sealed at all. Now in this case I would start with the valve lash and see if that changes anything. Then I would look at the timing set. From there you know where your issue lies......either way it's probably not going to be fun to hunt down the culprit........

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Only thing I can think of is the valves are way to tight, holding them open.

AZ2ENVY

iTrader: (2)

Valves are staying open causing compression to bleed off . Loosen the rockers and
set them to 0 lash dry . Start and adjust valves 1/2 past zero lash and you will be fine

stevo9389

did it sound almost like a power drill? if so then you tightened the valves too much and they are all slightly open.

multmigs

iTrader: (2)

You know when you said that a light bulb just went off in my head... guess what I'm doing this weekend... .Any and all other suggestion please keep going this forum rules...

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Go do it now! It will take 20min

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

agreed it shouldnt take you more then 20 minutes to reset the lash of your rockers. i had that exact problem when i had tightened my rockers down to much on my 267.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

First thought was timing chain, but valve lash sounds more reasonable.
A quick way to check is to have someone on the compression kit while the car is trying to start, that should tell you whether it is getting any at all and you should be able to tell at that point whether it is valve lash or timing chain.

multmigs

iTrader: (2)

I don't know what LT1 ur workin on but it took over an hour just to get to the point of being able to adjust the rockers, the PS valve cover being tucked behind the alt and the coolant pipe having to be removed to gain access. However when we back them all off, the car did finally START!! I'm seeking some more knowledgable help to get them adjusted correctly but I can't express how thankfull I am to the guys on here with the suggestions posted here.

THANK YOU ALL

Migs

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

exactly what he said!!!

JAKEJR

Yep.[/QUOTE]

This was taken from CompCams' website. Hope it gives you the help you need.

Section I. Setting preload with ADJUSTABLE ROCKER ARMS

Turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation. Start with cylinder number one (1).

When the exhaust valve begins to move, adjust the intake valve to the correct preload.

To reach zero, take the pushrod between your finger tips and move it up and down while you tighten the rocker arm.

Once you feel the pushrod has no more vertical slack, you are at zero preload. Make sure the pushrod is in the lifter and the rocker arm seat when making valve adjustments.

As stated before the best setting is .030” to .040”, or ½ to ¾ a turn of the wrench past zero.

Now, you can move on to the exhaust valve on the same cylinder. Begin by rotating the engine over again until the intake valve reaches maximum lift and is almost all the way back down.

Then set the exhaust valve using the same method as the intake (.030” to .040”, or ½ to ¾ a turn of the wrench past zero).

Continue adjusting the valves on each cylinder in this manner until all valves are adjusted.

Jake

West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Lol! I work on my LT1s. Shouldnt take an hour to move the alt. I dont even think you need to move it, but mines relocated so thats a non issue for me. I can just pull the covers and adjust them very fast.

this is the best way read 7 & 8
http://www.compcams.com/v002/Instructions/Files/151.pdf

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

You have to pull the alternator, but that should take literally 10 minutes if that. THen remove both valve covers, when I worked at gm all we ever did was literally use the impacts to tighten all rockers till 4 threads were exposed on the rocker stud. That set all the preload on them and was damn near perfect every time. But if its ur first time just look it up and go through every one of them individually.