What stall converter for street use?
#21
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With a "looser" converter how do you think it doesnt generate MORE heat than a stock converter wheon not locked up? I never stated a converter "slips" it passes more fluid which makes the pump work harder, ya reckon?
You put a load on a tow veh and why does the heat buildup in the trans fluid? The converter is moving more fluid. The trans isnt slipping.
Take a F body with a stall converter not locked up and climb a mountain with it, does it build heat? Yep.
You put a load on a tow veh and why does the heat buildup in the trans fluid? The converter is moving more fluid. The trans isnt slipping.
Take a F body with a stall converter not locked up and climb a mountain with it, does it build heat? Yep.
#22
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+1 Your absolutly right. I've played alot with stall converters and I've driven them all on the street from a 2400 up to a 4000 and now with a new 5200. More stall = more heat = dead transmissions, I've been there done that got the T-Shirt. My $70 B&M Super Cooler was the best insurance I've eva bought, it dropped my trans temps to the point where I can drive my car around in 100 degree weather in traffic and not have an issue.
I currently run an 8" ATI in the Impala, and I couldn't agree with you more about the need for a cooler when driving around with a converter like that.
#23
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Observations on 4000-5200 race converters are irrelevant when we're talking about a high efficiency street converter, which is what the OP asked about.
I currently run an 8" ATI in the Impala, and I couldn't agree with you more about the need for a cooler when driving around with a converter like that.
I currently run an 8" ATI in the Impala, and I couldn't agree with you more about the need for a cooler when driving around with a converter like that.
#24
Just wondering did all f bodies come with stock auxiliary coolers that's hooked up in parallel with the radiator setup like the b bodies were? I've never really looked at one. Or am I completely wrong about that being an auxiliary cooler?
#25
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I still think you've never experienced the latest cutting edge street converters like the Yank SS3600 we were discussing. Vigilantes are great converters; I still have one in another vehicle. But they have not kept up with the times like Yank has. The SS3600 I had in my Impala with the stock engine ran cooler than the previous Yank 3000 converter I had in it, which was the same technology as Vig's present street converters.
Maybe I'm just spoiled/biased by the Impala's fairly robust stock cooler setup. I'll end my comments on this by saying, one more time,......If you need an aux cooler with the SS3600 converter in your F-body, then you needed it with your stock converter too.
#28
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I ran a Yank SS4000 on my old TA a while back w/ a transmission cooler and it was a little on the high side for street use but nothing you couldn't get used to. For an everyday driver the SS3600 is hands down the way to go.
#29
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from the yank website:
Is a transmission cooler needed with my Yank high stall converter?
9. Not typically with the street strip converters below 3000 stall. The superior efficient design of the Yank converters generate less heat than our competitor's offerings, making trans coolers unnecessary in street/strip applications. For more hard-core racing applications (or converters over 3000 stall speed), a trans cooler is always cheap insurance to protect the transmission when "hot-lapping" the car.
Is a transmission cooler needed with my Yank high stall converter?
9. Not typically with the street strip converters below 3000 stall. The superior efficient design of the Yank converters generate less heat than our competitor's offerings, making trans coolers unnecessary in street/strip applications. For more hard-core racing applications (or converters over 3000 stall speed), a trans cooler is always cheap insurance to protect the transmission when "hot-lapping" the car.
#30
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3600 Vig here I love it!
Edit: I also have a trans cooler, I paid a lot of money for my trans/stall (RPM) and I refuse to allow something as small and cheap as a trans cooler to be the reason my trans breaks. Get a trans cooler either if your trans is built or not....use common/conscious sense please.
Edit: I also have a trans cooler, I paid a lot of money for my trans/stall (RPM) and I refuse to allow something as small and cheap as a trans cooler to be the reason my trans breaks. Get a trans cooler either if your trans is built or not....use common/conscious sense please.
Last edited by 02sleeperz28; 01-05-2010 at 05:33 PM.
#31
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I have a 3200 Stall from Monster Transmissions. Good people there (not knocking any other companies either since they are great also) and always willing to help out. For the price, I couldn't beat it. I also put a Tranny cooler in with it and she ran strong and hit hard also. But that's just my .02
#33
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I have a 3200 Stall from Monster Transmissions. Good people there (not knocking any other companies either since they are great also) and always willing to help out. For the price, I couldn't beat it. I also put a Tranny cooler in with it and she ran strong and hit hard also. But that's just my .02
http://transmission-specialties.com/
#34
If that's the case then adding a cooler would be essential. I measured out the stock aux cooler and measured out to 11x4x2. Measely little thing but seen a hand full of threads where other b bodies were ok with higher stalls. In op case, id get one.
#35
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It's a good idea to run an aux cooler even if your still on the stock converter. It's just added cheap insurance. I always run an aux cooler. just removing the tranny fluid from the HOT radiator and into its own cooler is a valid reason to install an aux cooler especially where I live or the summer months. I use a cooler designed for an RV so I know I get good cooling all year round. I have a trans temp gage so I know its running cooler.
#37
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im running a 3600 stall converter with a b&m tranny cooler this 1
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BM...2/?image=large
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BM...2/?image=large
#38
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I use to DD my car with a Yank SS3600 and 3.73's. Was real nice for the street and strip. It also worked excellent with my LE2 setup as well. I was dumb and didn't run a cooler so my trans took a dump with only 15,000 original miles on it. I blame it on the stall creating more heat than stock so no matter what a $70 trans oil cooler should be purchased. We run the B&M 70264's on our WS6 and GTO and I would recommend that. I now have a Yank PT4000 stall and as much as I like it at the track I miss the SS3600 because it is really nice and tight around town and really makes the car feel like it has loads of torque.
#40
geez i'm disappointed... cant believe all you guys with your big converter talk, not one of you use a trans temp gauge?
the biggest factor in torque converter heat buildup is the weight of the vehicle, the heavier the vehicle the more heat generated..
my tbucket when it use to run had a 3500 edge converter in it, i had a single pass frame mounted cooler on it, and that was it, didnt even go to the radiator, just out of the tranny into the cooler and back into the tranny..it probably didnt even need a cooler.
my 80 chevy truck i'm using an edge 9.5 inch 3500rpm converter, i have a b&m cooler with integrated fan on it, its set at 160degrees.. its a built big block and a built th400..
i would use a tranny cooler anyways, you should be able to find an operating range of the 4l60e its probably around 160 to 180 degrees just guessing.. kind of common sense being your engine temperature is usually between 160-200 degrees, thats also why factories ran the transmission line through the radiator, not only to cool it but to also heat it. theres an normal operating temperature range for a transmission.
i'm using a local built converter in my camaro,call it stimulating the local economy.. its a 2500rpm Champ converter.. $150 bucks with my core .. i've used several converters from this place,in my own and in a couple cars and trucks i built for people, all have been great converters, would put them up against my edge converter..
the biggest factor in torque converter heat buildup is the weight of the vehicle, the heavier the vehicle the more heat generated..
my tbucket when it use to run had a 3500 edge converter in it, i had a single pass frame mounted cooler on it, and that was it, didnt even go to the radiator, just out of the tranny into the cooler and back into the tranny..it probably didnt even need a cooler.
my 80 chevy truck i'm using an edge 9.5 inch 3500rpm converter, i have a b&m cooler with integrated fan on it, its set at 160degrees.. its a built big block and a built th400..
i would use a tranny cooler anyways, you should be able to find an operating range of the 4l60e its probably around 160 to 180 degrees just guessing.. kind of common sense being your engine temperature is usually between 160-200 degrees, thats also why factories ran the transmission line through the radiator, not only to cool it but to also heat it. theres an normal operating temperature range for a transmission.
i'm using a local built converter in my camaro,call it stimulating the local economy.. its a 2500rpm Champ converter.. $150 bucks with my core .. i've used several converters from this place,in my own and in a couple cars and trucks i built for people, all have been great converters, would put them up against my edge converter..
Last edited by brucer; 01-06-2010 at 02:50 AM.