LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

2010 LTX Shootout Classes & Rules are Posted

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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 07:53 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by ThreeHonks
meh. The LS1 pcm serves the same function as an aftermarket rear end. All it does is help you get down the track safely and without mechanical failure.
Really? You reckon that extra 1000 rpm up top will build any extra power?

And that extra gear you can put in the car to utilize that 1000 rpm will make it leave a bit harder???????
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 07:57 AM
  #42  
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I see what you're saying IF you change your setup to suit that extra 1000 rpm. There are a lot of people out there doing the conversion just to ditch the opti
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
Really? You reckon that extra 1000 rpm up top will build any extra power?
if your running mod class then sure, but not on the average street car. ill be doing an LS1 pcm on a bone stock rotating assembly, and i certainly wont be twisting it to 8 grand. The rev limiter will be set right where it was before.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 08:02 AM
  #44  
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they could make it a requirment that if running the LS1 pcm, the rev limiter must be set at a certain RPM. 7000rpm would be a good mark, right where the LT1 pcm starts to die
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ThreeHonks
they could make it a requirment that if running the LS1 pcm, the rev limiter must be set at a certain RPM. 7000rpm would be a good mark, right where the LT1 pcm starts to die
We *could* make that requirement, but there's no way to enforce it when a car is going down the track. If you don't fit in Extreme Street because of a PCM swap, you can still run Bracket and/or Index if you're not quick enough for Modified.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 08:26 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by ThreeHonks
I see what you're saying IF you change your setup to suit that extra 1000 rpm. There are a lot of people out there doing the conversion just to ditch the opti
Flushing money in my opinion if this is the only reason to do it.

My opti has been to 6800-7000 MANY times. The ONLY reason I would do this swap was for the 1000 rpm and the 4.88 gear I could utilize with the extra rpm. The only other reason I could think is easier tuning.

The facory LT1 ecm is very capable of handling 650 hp NA.

I am more interested in the minimum weights, we aint racing coupe Mustangs...I mean come on 3075 lbs min weight in Mod. Geez do I have to have doors and front clip?
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
Flushing money in my opinion if this is the only reason to do it.

My opti has been to 6800-7000 MANY times. The ONLY reason I would do this swap was for the 1000 rpm and the 4.88 gear I could utilize with the extra rpm. The only other reason I could think is easier tuning.

The facory LT1 ecm is very capable of handling 650 hp NA.

I am more interested in the minimum weights, we aint racing coupe Mustangs...I mean come on 3075 lbs min weight in Mod. Geez do I have to have doors and front clip?
The factory ECM is capable of more than 650 to the wheel. That doesn't make it a good solution for my STREET car where i want reliability and drivability. If horsepower was the only metric people ever considered, we would all still be running around with carburetors!

Flushing money down the toilet? Blowing up opti's, towing bills, and spending money on tuner's who dont know what they are doing and/or crap software is flushing money down the toilet. Just because MSDOS can write me a document doesnt mean i dont want to run windows. Im not stuck in the past. And just like MS-DOS, there is no good documentation or support for it anymore. Why would i want to screw around with that when i already have the experience in HPTuners to tune an engine in 20 minutes? And if i cant i have a support forum and 5+ personal friends ready to help me with it, none of which i have with OBD1. Manually calculating something that can be done automatically doesn't impress anyone.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 08:57 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by JoeliusZ28
The factory ECM is capable of more than 650 to the wheel. That doesn't make it a good solution for my STREET car where i want reliability. If horsepower was the only metric people ever considered, we would all still be running around with carburetors!

Flushing money down the toilet? Blowing up opti's, towing bills, and spending money on tuner's who dont know what they are doing is flushing money down the toilet. Just because MSDOS can write me a document doesnt mean i dont want to run windows. Im not stuck in the past. And just like MS-DOS, there is no good documentation or support for it anymore. Why would i want to screw around with that when i already have the experience in HPTuners to tune an engine in 20 minutes? Manually calculating something that can be done automatically doesn't impress anyone.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:01 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Formula383
We *could* make that requirement, but there's no way to enforce it when a car is going down the track. If you don't fit in Extreme Street because of a PCM swap, you can still run Bracket and/or Index if you're not quick enough for Modified.
fair enough, and i wont argue your choice. my above post is just defending my reasoning
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:30 AM
  #50  
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I just dont see the reasoning when DOS will do the job and go JUST as quick down the track. But hey to each his own I guess. I am all about making the car faster.If I spend money to change something its gonna be to make more power and go quicker. If you are gonna leave the rev limiter at 7000 and not change the cam and gear to take advantage of the deal you just spent money on I dont see the point.

But hey, fly your own boat I guess.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:41 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
I am more interested in the minimum weights, we aint racing coupe Mustangs...I mean come on 3075 lbs min weight in Mod. Geez do I have to have doors and front clip?
I know what you mean. My car is 3400 lbs and I am running in Outlaw!

There is a broad range of cars wanting to run Mod....cars like yours that weigh 36-3700 lbs...and some SE cars that weigh less than 3000 lbs (they will have to add weight and most will have less power than you.)
The reason for the weight breaks are to bring in more cars. Vettes, Stockers.....etc but at the same time keep them limited to help level the playing field with the heavier cars. It will all work out.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 10:03 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Tony Shepherd
I know what you mean. My car is 3400 lbs and I am running in Outlaw!

There is a broad range of cars wanting to run Mod....cars like yours that weigh 36-3700 lbs...and some SE cars that weigh less than 3000 lbs (they will have to add weight and most will have less power than you.)
The reason for the weight breaks are to bring in more cars. Vettes, Stockers.....etc but at the same time keep them limited to help level the playing field with the heavier cars. It will all work out.

I understand, but damn 3075lbs? I put a post earlier about exhaust but was not answered. No exhaust? Open headers in Mod NA?

I could GUT my car, spend $2500 on lightweight parts and not make that weight.

I could get to 3450 with no exhaust, one kirkey seat, no A/C evap, no carpet.

Who the hell weighs 3075 ready to race anyway in the LT1 world? DO I need to put my combo into a coupe stang and come race? Its a all LTx race correct? I can spend $2500 on a roller and make the weight.

Guess I may have to call up my lightweight driver mod LMAO!
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
Geez do I have to have doors and front clip?
yes
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 10:14 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY

Who the hell weighs 3075 ready to race anyway in the LT1 world?
actually I would have to add a good bit of weight since I have a 100 lb weight penalty.

Last edited by 95 Formula; Jan 14, 2010 at 10:23 AM.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 10:15 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by 95 Formula
yes
Smarty pants!

You bringin that hand shaker to race?
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 10:25 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
Smarty pants!

You bringin that hand shaker to race?
If the car is still in one piece, i still own it and I can break away from my businesses I would like to be there. I would have to figure out where to pile on some weight in the car though.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 10:43 AM
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[QUOTE]Who the hell weighs 3075 ready to race anyway in the LT1 world? DO I need to put my combo into a coupe stang and come race? Its a all LTx race correct? I can spend $2500 on a roller and make the weight.[QUOTE]

Your right, I'll have to carry some ballast to make that.

I just noticed I also have a race the weekend before (at Topeka), I knew I had one the weekend after. Don't know that I'll have time to switch everything back and forth.

Last edited by Ed Wright; Jan 14, 2010 at 10:47 AM. Reason: Forgot something
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 11:07 AM
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I know what you mean. My car is 3400 lbs and I am running in Outlaw!
Your car is 3400 with you in it????? what is it at when you drop your big *** in the seat????

I weighed my car a few months ago and i was 3400 with me in it and half a tank of fuel.... I was hoping to drop that down to 3200 using a fiberglass hatch, lexan rear window and lexan windshield in the next few months....

and man i can't believe Ed is gonna hafta add ballast to make weight.... i gotta see what's taken out of that thing...

Ed you got fiberglass doors and lexan at all 4 corners??? what class you gonna run??? Outlaw i'd imagine????
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 11:35 AM
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I had almost 260 lbs of ballast in my car to run last years race (including the weight box). I still have all the interior parts like carpet, panels, headliner, stock seats, etc. I also have all stock body panels and a full cage. So, yes you can get an LT1 down to 3200 lbs without spending your life savings on light weight parts.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 11:43 AM
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Factory windows, fenders, hood, rear hatch, etc. I'm not allowed to change any of that stuff in NHRA & IHRA Super stock. With no alternator (I run it with one), one battery (I use two) and nothing in the weight box it's 2845 without me in it. Taking all the TA crap off and making it a regular Firebird would loose about 40lbs more, I'm told. Don't know that for sure, but other guys I race tell me that. Most everybody with one of these is lighter than mine, but nobody else runs their's as a Trans AM. Most everybody else's was built from a body in white, or completely stripped, cleaned and painted on a rotiserie <SP?>, mine still has the original factory paint inside and out. One young man asked me, at an IHRA race, "Who did your paint?". I said "GM'. If I can make it I'll run Modified NA.

Last edited by Ed Wright; Jan 14, 2010 at 11:49 AM.
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