Should I replace the cam?
Should I replace the cam? Ritalin version: Have a cc306 cam put in my 93' ta and ported stock heads. With crane gold 1.6 nsa rr's. hardened pr's, upgraded spring,comp lifters. 3 yrs. ago. Installer put them in, I drove car home 100mi. and car ran like ***. Pulled off intake and found 4 broken/collapsed lifters, they were in pieces.Installer apparently overtightened the rr's. Replaced bad lifter's with my stockers. and all new hardened pr's. Drove car about 10,000mi. But the car never put the power down that it should have. 320rwhp. w/full bolt-ons,LT's. 3800 stall.
ported intake,58mm t.b. bigger injectors, the works. Anyway, I was going to get a new dynotune in march, but Im thinking maybe ever since the lifter's collapsed, maybe I grounded off a cam lobe or two. How would I know if I did besides pulling the cam? Any symptoms? Im just wondering if I should spend the money on a new cam kit,before wasting money on a dynotune 1st. Car doesn't miss, and raps up quick and smooth, just getting some surging. Car has great fuel pressure, even under a load. Just seems like it should be putting alittle more power out of her. Hopefully Im not too confusing I have been up for about 27 hrs. now...
ported intake,58mm t.b. bigger injectors, the works. Anyway, I was going to get a new dynotune in march, but Im thinking maybe ever since the lifter's collapsed, maybe I grounded off a cam lobe or two. How would I know if I did besides pulling the cam? Any symptoms? Im just wondering if I should spend the money on a new cam kit,before wasting money on a dynotune 1st. Car doesn't miss, and raps up quick and smooth, just getting some surging. Car has great fuel pressure, even under a load. Just seems like it should be putting alittle more power out of her. Hopefully Im not too confusing I have been up for about 27 hrs. now...
Did the car put down 320rwp with the stall unlocked or locked? An auto with a large stall will usually throw down low numbers unlocked so if that's the case I wouldn't worry about it. Locked they would look more like 335-340rwhp which would be about right for a stalled auto and that cam. Also, in my case I picked up about 10rwhp from adjusting the timing, a dyno tune would have the timing and air/fuel right on par which could net you some more power assuming it isn't spot on right now.
Have you ever ran the car at the track?
Have you ever ran the car at the track?
Yes many times, the best it's ever pulled was a 1.8 60ft. 12.8 at 106mph.
Iv'e seen stock lt1's with just full exhaust and cai trap 103-104. Not sure if stall was locked or not. My ta has almost every bolt on except udp,and elec. wp. but every thing else pretty much. stall is a fuddle 3800 w/373 gears. My buddies 93 ta had a LE2 setup and thru a 4,000 yank and was putting down 60 rwhp more then I was at the time, and pretty much all our other bolt'ons were the same.
Iv'e seen stock lt1's with just full exhaust and cai trap 103-104. Not sure if stall was locked or not. My ta has almost every bolt on except udp,and elec. wp. but every thing else pretty much. stall is a fuddle 3800 w/373 gears. My buddies 93 ta had a LE2 setup and thru a 4,000 yank and was putting down 60 rwhp more then I was at the time, and pretty much all our other bolt'ons were the same.
Oh yeah, I have the rev. limiter set at 6300, because the car has well over 100,000mi. on her now, and I hate reving to the moon, but I know my cam almost needs to. car has great compression, 165-180 psi. across all cylinders.
I would like to set the car up to be much more stronger down low, and I would like the cam to peak out at around 61-6300rpm's. Im thinking the bigger cam is actually hurting me.But the car never really had a good dynotune. Would I have noticed by now if the cam had a ground down lobe? Driven prob. 30-40,000 actual miles on it since cam install.
If you only want to rev it to 6100-6300 then something like the cc503 or GM846 would suit you alot better than your current cam and would give you more usable power down low. Even something smaller yet may suit you best depends how much low-end to midrange power your looking for.
A buddy of mine wiped out a couple lobes with his LT1 recently and he knew right away so I highly doubt that's the case.
Nice Goat btw, we have a black '06 as well.
Last edited by StealthFormula; Jan 21, 2010 at 11:08 PM.
That right there is why you are trapping only 106. That cam likes to be shifted around 6300-6500 which you are aware of so a few mph is being lost right there.
If you only want to rev it to 6100-6300 then something like the cc503 or GM846 would suit you alot better than your current cam and would give you more usable power down low. Even something smaller yet may suit you best depends how much low-end to midrange power your looking for.
A buddy of mine wiped out a couple lobes with his LT1 recently and he knew right away so I highly doubt that's the case.
Nice Goat btw, we have a black '06 as well.
If you only want to rev it to 6100-6300 then something like the cc503 or GM846 would suit you alot better than your current cam and would give you more usable power down low. Even something smaller yet may suit you best depends how much low-end to midrange power your looking for.
A buddy of mine wiped out a couple lobes with his LT1 recently and he knew right away so I highly doubt that's the case.
Nice Goat btw, we have a black '06 as well.
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Im thinking I might also have a valvetrain issue, when I bought the ported stocker heads from a shop, they said the heads haven't been milled, but now im starting not to believe them, when I adj. the rr's last time, all of my crane rockers looked like this, running the stock length hardened pr's. Maybe I need to buy a pr length checker and check it out, this isn't right is it? maybe that is why im also loosing some power.
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I didn't think so, I have been finding it in the oil. I will get a pr length checker right away and I'll check it out. I have a feeling the heads have been milled, when I was told they weren't.
Unless you're now thinking of tearing the engine down to look for damage from the Al metal particles (btw, from the way the car sounds to be running, I wouldn't do it at this point), I would do one of two options regarding the cam:
1. Get some degree bushings and advance that cam to a 104-105 ICL (it's probably about 108 right now), and run 1.5 rockers on the exhausts. That will pick up the low end and not force you to rev it so high to get the power out of it.
2. Get Advanced Induction to spec a cam for you.
1. Get some degree bushings and advance that cam to a 104-105 ICL (it's probably about 108 right now), and run 1.5 rockers on the exhausts. That will pick up the low end and not force you to rev it so high to get the power out of it.
2. Get Advanced Induction to spec a cam for you.
Yeah I didn't plan on tearing it down now. The rr's have been chewed up like that for awhile. The car actually runs good. 20lbs. oil pressure at idle when warm. 35-40 going down the road. Car sounds great. no popping/backfiring. just the little surging at lower rpm's. Runs good,doesn't seem to be missing. just seems like it should run stronger. I believe I'll prob. give AI a call this spring and spec. a cam out, that would be better for me. Do you think the rr's will be alright, if I get the geometry straightened out.I put a Lunati timing set in it a few yrs. when I did the h/c. I believe it had a way on it to adj. the cam degree if I remember right, but anyways I think I'll just put a new cam in. But the motor does have 150,000mi. on it.
Last edited by 06blackGTO; Jan 22, 2010 at 08:29 PM.
