Alright i know there is a search button but lets get some opinions... i gota 97 T/A with roughly 130k im looking to dissemble and get a stroker kit from strokerkit.com (or maybe from some were else depending) Advanced inductions? http://www.strokerkits.com/index.php...emart&Itemid=1 would that kit be suitable and what pistons would i pick.. or just go with what type of compression i would be looking to get... i know there alot of stuff im leaving out but bare with me... The parts that will be installed before this summer are CAI, Exhaust, headers, and a shift kit(A4 need opinion on this as well). im currently in my first year of tech school. im going for for ASE certification and i have access to a complete shop the whole enchilada... im not looking to start soon but next winter on the stroker kit... so i wanna get all the parts and accessories needed.. any and all help will be needed so lets here them thanks in advanced.

 

Goals? Budget? Gears?

 

Well i live in mn so it will be a DD in the summer time.. Gears maybe before this summer along with CAI and exhaust. Stall converter possibly.? The budget for the stroker kit alone will be 1.5-2k give or take a few hundred. i dont really have a set hp limit due to i will slowly build up on it.. id like to get a few more more opinions so i dont make a wrong chice on parts or etc...

 

Main goal is to just rebuild it so it aint got that many miles on her...

 

Honestly, $1500 to $2000 will get you a fairly stock rebuild. That's about it (assuming that's what you're going for). You haven't mentioned anything about valvetrain or cylinder heads either. Are you budgeting for that as well?

 

for the time being the heads and valvetrain will stay stock. might have a fellow student work on the heads.. But im looking to get pistons, piston rings(etc), crank, rods, and bearings with the 2k. If and when i do dissemble the engine any parts that need replacing will be.

 

bumP anyone

 

you can get a great rotating assembly for 2K or under. Not a problem

 

so what kit or assembly should i get? That is pretty much the question im asking?

 

The parts you select will be based on your goals. What kind of driving...street/strip, road course, just street, etc. Pick a HP number so you know what to build for. What kind of budget do you have, how much time??? There are many things to be considered when building an engine. Personally I like the N/A DD build the crap out of it just to say you can side of things, but that's me. I'm going 408 with huge heads, and maybe some spray....but that's a whole other ball game.....

 

We just did the Wifes last summer. The Head gaskets on her 4bolt main replacement engine let go ...after the water pump shaft stripped out

Her are a few numbers I remember . This was a budget Daily Driver build with a 383.

Virgin 2bolt block (I got a few)
ARP main bolt kit (was laying around)
Eagle Balanced rotating with Hyper. flat tops. Around a Grand new with bearings and rings
Machine work $1600 or so. Trued the block, Decked it, main lined, Bore and hone with plates. Short Block assembled.
I let a Local guy do the heads (to Try) for $1,500 with Valves. I supplied the springs. I got a set sitting here to go to Lloyd when the time comes.
I had Cam Motion cut a 228/232 111 cam for it.
I went with Jegs(made by Lunati) Rockers and spent the time lining them up on the valves correctly with Isky Adjustable guide plate. VERY quiet valve train even with the cheap $100 e-bay lifters I used!
Smith Bro's got the call on the custom Push rods. I also spent the time on Correct valve train Geometery!
Cleaned up the intake and the stock injectors
LT4 Extreme timing set(loud)
Pro Products balancer and B&M Flex plate ZERO balanced.
SLP headers.
Stock Throttle body and MAF with MOROSO CAI

We spent a whopping 30min or so dialing the tune in and have been beating it since

Rolling burnouts over 200ft long and 12.4's every pass.

She has a mild 2,400 converter and stock 3.23 gears and 275 17in drag radials.

I am going to race it in the local brackets this year so we are going to put it on a dyno and finish the tune. She is very mellow with only 30 degree's of advance and slightly rich

All told I have a have a $6,000 figure floating in my head for total cost on this budget build for EVERY thing I spent over what I had laying around.

If you have a $2,000 budget Call Lloyd and just do heads. Other wise $2,000 is just a start on a good build.

Enjoy!

 

Both kits would easily do the job, the compstar stuff is finished nicer, and has a better bolt in the rod, but you can get that rod bolt in the scat rod for a little more money too.

 

I can get you a kit balanced with bearings for $1800 to your door or a little more for Callies.

We're doing a 408 for a customer right now as well so if you wanted to go bigger I can set you up with that too. ( advanced build though)

 

Its going to be my summer car due to the fact that i live in northern MN. should be more details above.. Its going to mainly street with the occasional 1/4 mile pass just ta see were im at i guess. So what do the LT1 population recommend?? I will prolly get a cam at the same time i buy the rotating assembly..

 

Assuming you are doing the machine-work and assembly yourself, like I mentioned earlier, 2k won't cut it. Now that you want to do a cam install, you're going to need several hundred more. Figure $300 for the cam, $300 for rockers, $200 for springs/hardware, plus a PCM tune, and you're looking at another $1,000. To do this right you're going to have to pull some more fundage.

 

If you would read i have access to a full machine shop i will be doing all the work myself. so why do these other guys say i can get a assembly under 2k

 

+$400 for a custom cam so $2200 with cam and bearings balanced to your door.

 

killamike -

I'm just trying to be realistic here. I never said you can't get a rotating assembly for under $2k, you just can't do the entire build for $2k. Like 99blancoSS just said, you can get the rotating assembly and cam for $2200. BUT like I said, you still need rockers ($300), springs and hardware ($200), possibly lifters ($130), head gaskets ($80), new timing chain/sprockets ($100), miscellaneous ($100), and a new PCM tune on top of all of that if you want it to run at all ($150). These are just ballpark prices to do it RIGHT. I am an advocate for doing things the RIGHT way, and if that means spending more money, so be it.

You do the math. I'm not trying to discourage you, just make you aware.

 

who says that the valve train is not reusable? I mean i will find out when i dissemble right i mean Rome wasn't built in a day. I'm going to start the mods ( or w/e) in the short block then go on from there

 

this is getting good