Do these jive?
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From: Cheyenne, Wy
Do these jive? I am slightly uneducated on the bottom end of engines.....ok, alotta uneducated. I am looking for parts and trying to haggle on prices but I am seeing things I dont quite understand. Dont worry, I'm not doing the work, only gathering the parts lol.
I currently have a Jasper block bored .040 with stock rods and a stock crank turned to .040 main, and .010 rod journals. This was done in April 2008. I damaged my pistons during a cam swap a while back and now I am replacing them. I am going to have the block bored .060 to match the new pistons, and re-use the stock crank since its on a fairly fresh turn and I am going to re-use the stock rods. Here is where I need help...I am looking at some Mahle Powerpak Pistons. I know I need the bore to be 4.060, but the rod length needs to be 5.7" correct? here is what I am lookin at, please tell me if you see any immediate problems!
SB Chevy 361 4.060"X 3.480" X 5.700" Mahle -5cc Flat Top Pistons W/ Rings
Clevite 77 Connecting Rod Bearings - CB663P-10 Small block Chevy 350 2.10"
Clevite 77 Main Bearings Chevy SBC 350 LT1 -040
ARP Main Bolt Kit
Please let me know if you see anything wrong and what I need to change if there is...I am also doign a number of other mods, if your curious just say so and ill spill lol
I currently have a Jasper block bored .040 with stock rods and a stock crank turned to .040 main, and .010 rod journals. This was done in April 2008. I damaged my pistons during a cam swap a while back and now I am replacing them. I am going to have the block bored .060 to match the new pistons, and re-use the stock crank since its on a fairly fresh turn and I am going to re-use the stock rods. Here is where I need help...I am looking at some Mahle Powerpak Pistons. I know I need the bore to be 4.060, but the rod length needs to be 5.7" correct? here is what I am lookin at, please tell me if you see any immediate problems!
SB Chevy 361 4.060"X 3.480" X 5.700" Mahle -5cc Flat Top Pistons W/ Rings
Clevite 77 Connecting Rod Bearings - CB663P-10 Small block Chevy 350 2.10"
Clevite 77 Main Bearings Chevy SBC 350 LT1 -040
ARP Main Bolt Kit
Please let me know if you see anything wrong and what I need to change if there is...I am also doign a number of other mods, if your curious just say so and ill spill lol
Yea I agree ^^^^^ There are alot of vendors on here that if you call them talk to them tell them your goals what you want they will give you there knowledge and a good price on a kit. Just let them know you are not that savy with rotating assy.
FormerVendor
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Bartlett
Are the rods still ok, did you twist any when the pistons got hit? you should have that checked out. also your going to need to balance your rotating assembly for the new pistons, the stock rods are press fit not full floating so your going to have to have them pressed off and back on to the new pistons. You might be better off finding a good standard size crank and getting a set of scat I beam rods and a good set of pistons. The scat rods with 3/8 arp capscrew are like $230 or 7/16 rod is $270. I don't like to use cranks that have to be cut more than .010.
Thread Starter
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From: Cheyenne, Wy
Ok, here is what I am asking I guess. Price isnt as much my concern AT THE MOMENT as getting parts that will work together! I know there are probably better prices out there and trust me I am going to investigate and make calls to find them...I just need to know what will work.
Stock rods are 5.7" right?
Will the pistons listed above work with the stock rods?
If I DO go with new rods I am gonna get the 6" rods and use them on a stock turned crank, will these pistons work or do I need to find others?
As far as the stock rods go, I am going to have everything inspected before I make a decision to either keep them or go new. I will not have enough power to "NEED" forged parts, so I can invest my money in other things if all my rods and crank are ok. If 1 rod is twisted or damaged, I will buy the SCAT 6" Forged rods. Once all is decided upon and I have everything purchased it will all be balanced, my block will be zero decked (if not already). I am having the block bored .060 anyways so it will all be at the machine shop.
The crank was turned to .010 back in April 2008 so it should be fine...if its not I will get a standard stock crank and have it turned.
Stock rods are 5.7" right?
Will the pistons listed above work with the stock rods?
If I DO go with new rods I am gonna get the 6" rods and use them on a stock turned crank, will these pistons work or do I need to find others?
As far as the stock rods go, I am going to have everything inspected before I make a decision to either keep them or go new. I will not have enough power to "NEED" forged parts, so I can invest my money in other things if all my rods and crank are ok. If 1 rod is twisted or damaged, I will buy the SCAT 6" Forged rods. Once all is decided upon and I have everything purchased it will all be balanced, my block will be zero decked (if not already). I am having the block bored .060 anyways so it will all be at the machine shop.
The crank was turned to .010 back in April 2008 so it should be fine...if its not I will get a standard stock crank and have it turned.
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Thread Starter
12 Second Club
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From: Cheyenne, Wy
No, I didnt realize that which is why I was asking lol...and because I keep hearing that a 6" rod is better. Are THESE the pistons I need for a 6" rod?
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...78&CtgID=16042
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...78&CtgID=16042
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Verdad Gallardo A 6" rod increases piston dwell time, which is shown to make slightly more power over an identical 5.7" setup. You can also run a lighter piston with a 6" rod due to the reduced piston height, reducing overall rotating assembly mass.
Thread Starter
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From: Cheyenne, Wy
how much more power should I see if I go from a .040 overbore to a .060 overbore, a 5.7" rod to a 6" rod, and those mahle pistons which up my compression from the current 9 to 1 to around an 11.1 to 1? I think that is about where I will be on compression when this is all said and done...
These are all questions that your builder should be addressing for you.
95% of the power is a function of the valvetrain; the rotating assembly only facilitates it. The power between a 5.7" to a 6.0" rod is very small (2HP perhaps).
Keeping everything else the same and going from .040" to .060" will lower your compression by increasing CC size.
Forget what compression you have now as it will have no bearing on your new build. Calculate your SCR by using the parts you're incorporating into your build. Keep in mind that SCR by itself is just a static calculation regarding the physical aspect of the build, and that it has no direct bearing on performance.
95% of the power is a function of the valvetrain; the rotating assembly only facilitates it. The power between a 5.7" to a 6.0" rod is very small (2HP perhaps).
Keeping everything else the same and going from .040" to .060" will lower your compression by increasing CC size.
Forget what compression you have now as it will have no bearing on your new build. Calculate your SCR by using the parts you're incorporating into your build. Keep in mind that SCR by itself is just a static calculation regarding the physical aspect of the build, and that it has no direct bearing on performance.
