View Poll Results: What length rods should I use?
5.7"
4
20.00%
6"
15
75.00%
Other
1
5.00%
Voters: 20. You may not vote on this poll
5.7" or 6" rods??
01-31-2010, 11:57 AM
#21
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I am not necessarily going for power with the rods as I am the best option for my setup. I am going to be spending money on the rebuild, I just wanna make sure its doen right the first time.
TPiS DID play with these heads some. I think they are about as far ported as the casting will let them go, but I havent looked very hard. I will when they are off though trust me, and if they can be then Iwill port them.
TPiS DID play with these heads some. I think they are about as far ported as the casting will let them go, but I havent looked very hard. I will when they are off though trust me, and if they can be then Iwill port them.
01-31-2010, 02:40 PM
#22
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its been described to me that anything that will create a higher piston speed will make a sub-par head "work" harder.
now... in a motor that you're probably not going to peak anywhere above 6k rpm, I seriously doubt it's going to matter.
I've always pondered the 5.7" vs. 6.0" rod debate, and still wonder, which weighs more? .300" of rod material, or .300" of 4" piston material? the piston isn't being shortened by .300" so maybe a 5.7" rod/piston combo might yield a lighter reciprocating mass. which is definately beneficial in a N/A setup.
now... in a motor that you're probably not going to peak anywhere above 6k rpm, I seriously doubt it's going to matter.
I've always pondered the 5.7" vs. 6.0" rod debate, and still wonder, which weighs more? .300" of rod material, or .300" of 4" piston material? the piston isn't being shortened by .300" so maybe a 5.7" rod/piston combo might yield a lighter reciprocating mass. which is definately beneficial in a N/A setup.
01-31-2010, 08:00 PM
#23
They don't seem to understand that. Ring package, cylinder wall finish, and ring groove dimensions and finish. As much power there as any intake manifold. We found almost another twenty last winter just in honing.
Btw, Bobby & Jeff have a friend of mine's LT1 stocker at their shop right now. Red F body from Texas. Belongs to a nice young man.
Btw, Bobby & Jeff have a friend of mine's LT1 stocker at their shop right now. Red F body from Texas. Belongs to a nice young man.
01-31-2010, 08:15 PM
#24
TECH Apprentice
Yea i know.... Perhaps you missed the part where i said i was going to pull the 2 sets to see what the differences are in drag. Which will give an indication of frictional losses. And yes theres more to it than that, i just put the weight differeces up there because 14 grams is quite a bit of a difference for rings.
01-31-2010, 09:07 PM
#25
Yea i know.... Perhaps you missed the part where i said i was going to pull the 2 sets to see what the differences are in drag. Which will give an indication of frictional losses. And yes theres more to it than that, i just put the weight differeces up there because 14 grams is quite a bit of a difference for rings.
01-31-2010, 09:10 PM
#26
Btw, Bobby & Jeff have a friend of mine's LT1 stocker at their shop right now. Red F body from Texas. Belongs to a nice young man.
01-31-2010, 10:01 PM
#27
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So if I get some Mahle Powerpak pistons...should I use the rings they supply, or do y'all recommend some others? Like I said, I am not very educated in this area, just trying to gather the parts I need.
02-01-2010, 06:33 AM
#30
TECH Apprentice
Yea rings is another one of those dark corners that very few ever shines any light in. Its all about the whole combination. Like it was said above just cyl wall finish plays a role in HP. Lots of small things get over looked when engineering a winning combination. Im looking for HP and fuel effienciency in every corner i can find it. Thats why i decided to give these SRP pistons a whirl.
